godpossessed

Well I got my rack replaced with an AC Delco unit and now there is still a leak. The mechanic says that the new rack didn't come with a pressure valve and that he had to move the one from my old rack to the new unit. The leak is the gasket (which he reused) between the pressure valve and the rack. That gasket is not sold separately by Lexus and is not showing up on any searches online. Any thoughts on where to look for one? thanks Mark

I'm stumped. Just put a new steering rack on the car and reused the old seal when I moved the pressure valve over from the old rack to the new one. Now it's leaking and Lexus doesn't list the seal as a separate part. Does anybody have an idea where I could get one of those seals? thanks Mark

thanks mucho

I am getting the starter replaced today. It has been grinding for 2 years now upon engagement. What other items should be addressed while the intake is off for the starter work? thanks Mark

Do these aftermarket control arms make the ride tighter and stiffer than the OEM's? Can you feel any difference? I don't know what it was like when it was new (I bought the car in '01 with 53K miles) but the ride is smooth with these arms. They seem compliant, but controlled. I guess the bushings are similar in hardness to OEM.

A wonderment: do the air suspension cars have different upper control arms than the standard cars? And did Lexus change the arms for the '93 - '94 cars? My car is in dire need of the front (and rear) suspension overhauled. The part# for the '93-'94 cars is the same. You could call Arnott and ask about the air vs. standard suspension differences.

Same here - I got the arms on in about 40 min per side. The quality seemed fine and the handling is nice and tight.

found em http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS...d46_gid421.html thanks

Well - the old girl has 232K miles now and the used upper control arm that I put on the front passenger side 2 years ago is sloppy now. Is there a better choice than trying used again. The OEM is ~$500 as you all know. What about aftermarket. thanks Mark

Found it. The motor I put on earlier was defective. The shaft that has the drive gear on it had excessive play and was flopping around under power and flexing the regulator. Still under warranty so I'm good to go. ps - don't ever be an idiot like me and replace the window motor with the regulator in. It can be done with patience and the right tools but the correct way is to remove the 3 bolts holding the window to the regulator arm. Then tape the window in the UP position. Finally, rmove 3 of the 4 bolts holding the regulator to the inner door shell (just loosen the top left one) and unplug the motor from its power source. The whole regulator/motor assembly comes out the large hole on the left of the inner door shell. The motor is real easy to remove and replace at that point. thanks all

I have a '91 with 213K miles. I put a new window motor in about 6 months ago and in the last couple of week the window has started making a popping sound when you take it all the way down and start back up. After removing the inside panel and looking inside the door, I noticed that the curved piece of the regulator that the motor gear engages flexes in and out when you change direction. This is where the popping is happening but I don't want to remove the regulator if I don't have to. Any thought? thanks Mark

Wifey's '91 LS400 has 194k and it is still sweet. Mileage has fallen off in the last 10k miles though. Probably time for an EGR/TB/plenum cleansing and O2 sensors.

..and now the cruise also works. You guys will love this - Sewell wants $113 for the reservior lip with sensor. Pull-a-Part here I come. m

Well, I think I found the problem. I replaced the center brake lights and it didn't help. I checked the fluid agian, just to be sure and it was full. Then, I took the lid off of the reservior and jiggled the floaty. No help. The light was still on. Then I unplugged the sensor to the lid and, voila!, the brake arning goes off. I am assuming that would indicate a failed sensor. Any thoughts? m

Yeah - the brake fluid is OK. What could fool the system into thinking the rear bulbs weren't functional or the current passing through them was outside tolerance? m