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WeSki

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WeSki last won the day on January 18 2016

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About WeSki

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  • First Name
    Carl

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS400
  • Lexus Year
    1994
  • Location
    California (CA)
  1. Thanks for the tip but no I never got that far. One of the main issues was that the EGR tube that runs from the intake manifold to the right exhaust was cracked; the tube was pricy and a pain to change. There were multiple other issues with the car that were going to cost over $1000 in parts. The car had over 330K miles and wasn't worth $1k running. I found a 1994 LS400 with only 130k miles for $2500, bought that, scrapped out the 92, kept what I could use for the 94 and sold the rest on eBay. Made about $800. I drove the 94 for just over 180k, sold it and bought a 2000 LS400. Great cars.
  2. I never did resolve the issue but I do think I found the last straw problem. The EGR tube the connects to the back of the intake manifold and drops down to the right exhaust had a crack in the accordion portion of the tube. At that point I punted, the cost of the tube and the labor time for me to change it out was just not worth it to me. I scrapped out anything that was of value on eBay, about $1000. Then hauled the scrapped out car to the scrap metal yard, $100. It was sad but it was the most I could get for a car that wouldn't pass CA smog and was going to cost a bunch of time and money to
  3. I'm looking for Test procedure for an EGR valve off my 1994 LS400. This is not the vacuum type but has the electronic stepper motor. Lexus Part No 25620-50020. This EGR has the same connector as the IAC. I have the test procedure for the IAC to move the valve open and closed (Applying VDC to pins 1-4 in sequence to close and 4-1 to open) and the EGR appears to have the same design (But bigger coil) and connector so I tried the IAC procedure on the EGR, no valve movement. I have 2 of these EGRs and the IAC procedure doesn't work with either. 2 bad EGRs, maybe but I doubt it. So I'm thinking tha
  4. I believe you are right, the controller would have to run the valve to full close or open and measure gases, fuel mixture or something because there is nothing on the IAC to tell the controller that the valve is in one position or the other. Once the controller determines the open or closed position I assume that controller keeps track of how many time it has sent signals to the IAC. I read a posting on the web were a guy reinstalled his IAC in the closed position and the engine would not start but took the car several starting attempts until it finally started. The poster speculated that the
  5. After doing some internet research on stepper motors I made another attempt at testing my IACs. The procedure in my first post is correct. I tried a 9 VDC battery and also the 12 VDC car battery both worked fine. When applying DC to the IAC it is very difficult to see the valve move at least not by what my 20/20 vision can see. The momentary negative voltage must be applied in sequence and independently of each 'S' terminal i.e. apply negative DC to S1 then release, then apply negative DC to S2 then release, then apply negative DC to S3 then release, then apply negative DC to S4 then release.
  6. Thanks Exhaustgases, I haven't worked much with stepper motors but I am familiar with how they operate. I agree that a controller of sorts would be needed to move the valve open of closed but I have two test write-ups (Alldata & a Lexus manual) that both describe testing the IAC in the manner I described in my first post. In both test write-ups they show diagrams with the IAC connected to a battery; battery (+) positive to terminals B1 & B2, and the (-) negative to terminals S1-S2-S3-S4. There is one variation between Alldata and the Lexus manual; for connecting the negative to te
  7. Hello All, I'm looking for a tried and true test write up for bench testing the Idle Air Control IAC valve (AKA Idle Speed Control ISC) off a 1994 LS400 (165K miles) Part # 22270-50020. The 50020 IAC has the fixed coil mounted to it unlike the earlier LS400 that has the 3 screws holding the coil on the IAC; part # 22270-50010. I have attempted the bench test from Alldata but I'm not getting the desired results. My IAC measures 44 ohms for each of the 4 windings which according to Alldata is too high. The IAC doesn't function when I apply DC to the valve motor to move the valve open
  8. Thank you both for your input and suggestions. Today was a good day, after weeks of no starts and erratic idle the car finally gave a check engine light and the TrackOff light. Here are the Engine codes: 24 Intake air temp. sensor signal 31 Air flow meter signal 71 EGR system malfunction Trac codes: 48 Sub-throttle position sensor signal is 4.3V or higher, or sub-throttle position sensor signal is 0.2V or lower when idle switch is OFF 51 Problem in engine control system The 24 & 31 sound like something to do with the MAF but I don't know I cleaned the EGR valve but didn't test it
  9. In the mornings or after the car has sat for a couple for hours it starts right up and runs fine. At least once a day turning off the engine after driving a few miles it won't start back up if I try to re-start it within 20-30minutes. This is random and I haven't been abel to determine any pattern or cause. After cranking the engine for about 10 seconds the engine maybe fires a couple cyclers then dies. Crank it for another 10 seconds and it will pop over again but won't start. This has been happening so much that I've gotten pretty go at getting the car started after 5 or 6 long crankings. On
  10. I'm having the same trouble or very close to it; did you ever find a solution? I'm driving a 1994 LS400 with 145k miles. Here's my story About 2 weeks ago after about 20 minutes of hwy driving, at a stop the car stalled, turned the key and it started right up. Over the last 2 weeks the car has stalled at least once a day and each time it takes longer to start back up. The battery is strong and cranks the engine over with no trouble. After cranking the engine for about 10 seconds the engine maybe fires a couple cyclers then dies. Crank it for another 10 seconds and it will pop over again but
  11. Thanks for replying again, No, I won't run out and get new parts, just looking and troubleshooting. Thanks for the valve clearance info, I'm with you now, I just didn't make the connection from you last post. I pulled the IAC and cleaned it up, it wasn't to dirty however I found the following The resistance between pins is 22 ohms, the specs I found on this site call for 35 to 50 ohms or there about. I applied DC to the pins per the same post an nothing more than a bump in the plunger when applying DC. I also noticed a hair line crack in the black casing. I'm not sure where to go from
  12. Thank You for your reply. I purchased the connector from Lexus, part 90980-11246. It is a common connector body for repairing connector to ignition coils for many Lexus and Toyotas. I only replaced the body of the connector the wires and pins were in good condition. No, the ECT has not been replaced, I will look into that. I've seen post on the ECU Caps, I'll look into that also. I haven't looked at the Idle Air Control Valve, I'll check that too. Yes!, I DID find a vaccum leak. One of the 3 vaccum lines on top of the Throttle Body was not seated. I must not have connected it when I clea
  13. 1992 LS400, 328K miles The following was replaces at 300K miles: Timing Belt, Idler pulleys, Water Pump, Crank Seal, Cam Seals, rotors, Caps, Wire set, Spark Plugs At about 327,700 miles the Left side ignition coil failed; replaced both the left and right coils and that seemed to fix it. After driving the car for a short time I noticed a slight shutter at idle, kind of like a miss fire. I was getting 19 PMG but the shutter, kind of like a miss fire, got worse then the check Engine light came on. I also notice a reduction I power. Code 24: Intake air temp. sensor signal Code 71: EGR syst
  14. I have a complete set of tires & rims from the LS400 1992. If you are in So Cal (Vista area) then let me know if you would like to buy them. What rims do you have, the polished (Chrome looking) or the gray?
  15. Here's my 2 cents. I messed around with aftermarket wires and it was a hassle. I bought the wires at Napa where I get a discount through my work and the wire set still cost $95. I got so frustrated with the aftermarket set that I went to the dealer. The wire set is pre-dressed with new guides and it took about 6 minutes to install them. I expressed my frustration with the aftermarket set to the Lexus parts guy and he gave me a break on the price at $113. Well worth the extra $18. Yes, I returned the aftermarket set. Good luck and have fun.
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