paulo57509

I don't think so. Toyota changed the key programming on 1998 and up model years.

Has any of the shops actually looked at the inputs that the ECU uses to control shift points? Best I can determine, these two solenoids do the shifting. These are the ones that you're probably interested in: 85420-50020 35270-50010 This one locks up the torque converter: 35280-50010 So far, the repair shops either seem to be scratching their heads, guessing or throwing parts at it. It's not the preferred way to go about this, but at this point why not just replace all three solenoids? It takes the same amount of labor to replace one as it does all of them. Aftermarket solenoid kits with all three solenoids are less than $150 (Rostra P/N 529002). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,1996,ls400,4.0l+v8,1187513,transmission-automatic,shift+solenoid,8476 There's a 4th solenoid that controls line pressure as well - it's the one with the long "nose".

It's inside/attached to the outside of the fuel tank,

I don't know the reason why there's two different units but I would think that there's a good reason for it.

Read through this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Given: The car starts. 2/3-rds of the keyless entry function works. 2/3-rds function is the same for both keys I would say that what ever controls the keyless entry that's inside the vehicle - body control module or door lock module is most likely at fault. Make sure that you're using the correct transponder/keyless entry instructions. 1998 - x model years use a different set if programming instructions. However, I don't know if this change affects the ES models. According to the 1998 LS400 FSM, to check the remote operation, stand 1-meter away from the driver's side door, point the key blade towards the door handle and press the button. The door lock operates and the FOB LED lights up more than once.

I'm not a transmission expert nor do I have experience in diagnosing your particular problem. I'm posting the following in general terms as to what you can check and what may be happening. 1. Have you checked the fluid level? What color is the fluid? Does it smell burnt? Has the fluid ever been changed? 2. Who told you that the transmission needs to be replaced? Other than the trouble codes, has any other diagnostics been performed? You have two separate trouble codes: (http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html) 63 - Open or short circuit in No. 2 solenoid valve 67 - OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction Code 67 is most likely just a symptom because the car won't move. The engine control unit (ECU or "computer") is is getting an above idle throttle position signal, transmission in drive range signal and an elevated engine RPM signal; so it's expecting to see a speed signal from the speed sensor to tell it that the car is in motion. Since the car doesn't move, the ECU "thinks" the sensor has malfunctioned. Code 63 is most likely the cause. However, the fault could be the solenoid itself or in the electrical circuit for the No. 2 solenoid. I don't know exactly what Solenoid No. 2 does. It is most likely a solenoid that controls up/down shifts. However, the symptoms you describe sounds like a transmission fluid pressure issue - there is a solenoid or solenoids inside the transmission that controls fluid pressure. It may also be the fluid pump. Driving the vehicle with inadequate transmission fluid pressure may damage the unit. For problems that you describe, it is probably best (cost effective) to find a transmission specialist that knows Aisin/Borg-Warner A341E transmissions.

There's a lot of garbage being sold on Amazon and ebay. In my experience, any unbranded, cheap, made in or being sent from China item is to be avoided like Wuhan city. I've tried more than a few sets of those LED headlight retrofit bulbs in a few of my cars and the failure rate out of the box and a few months down the road is horrendous. I've even had cell phone charger cords and counterfeit phone and camera batteries that were DOA.

What model year is your LS?

You're welcome. The speedometer needle in my '98 sticks (rarely) depending on the ambient temperature. I have read elsewhere that the problem is the instrument lube that's used in the gauge heads get sticky with age. The only real fix is to remove the cluster and have an instrument repair shop deal with it. There is a chance that he gauge cluster might have a bad connection at the circuit board ribbon cables, etc.

The speedometer speed sensor is attached to the transmission tail shaft housing on the diver's side If the speedometer needle reads zero but the odometer is still incrementing, it's not the speed sensor. The tachometer gets its signal from the ignition system. I don't know exactly it ties into the ignition.

It could be the crankshaft position sensor has failed. Find it and check its resistance. These are specs for my '98; I don't know if it apples to your '96. Resistance (cold): 1,630 - 2,740 ohms Resistance (hot): 2,065 - 3,225 ohms Crankshaft position sensors are around $50 (aftermarket) if you just want to throw parts at it. If you do go this route, ask if you can return the sensor if it's uninstalled. Compare the resistance of the new vs. existing sensor under the same temperature conditions.

Maybe I'm missing something but what is the actual problem you're having?

You hear the motor running, so the switch is doing what it's supposed to be doing. I suspect your problem is with the regulator. You're going to have to remove the door panel to confirm.

Thanks for closing the loop and posting your fix.

This is a pretty general statement. What makes you think you have a fuel pump problem? Can you describe the symptoms?

Good call.

Sounds like access via the key is a no-go. That leaves the switch circuit. I have no easy fix. Hopefully, someone will have one for you. In the mean time.... Attached are the relative pages from my '98 FSM. I have no work around for not having the scan tool. DI-701 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Switch Circuit.pdf DI-703 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Motor Circuit.pdf DI-676 Body Control System - Problem Symptoms Table.pdf DI-720 Body Control System - Luggage Compartment Door Lock and Unlock Switch Circuit.pdf BE-140 Power Door Lock Control System - Inspection.pdf

https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/p/Lexus__/COMPUTER---ENGINE-CONTROL/63612676/8966150303.html P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax in 2008. These records may some of your questions. Regardless, the ECU you want is the latest part number. It will have the most recent calibrations.

Why are the lower control arms being replaced? Bushing wear? Fronts or rears? Are you the original owner or did you buy it used? Was it in a wreck? If you haven't done so already, you might get a more informed response by posting at the GS forum: https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/forum/88-93-05-lexus-gs300-gs400-gs430/

The wiper/washer is controlled by the Body ECU. The wiper motor circuit diagram doesn't show any relays. If there are relays, they're probably inside the Body ECU box. What kind of problem are you having? DI-685 Body Control System - Wiper Motor Circuit.pdf BE-82 Wiper and Washer System - Location.pdf

Yes, definitely check the easy (cheap) stuff first. I've had good luck with Magnafow on both my '87 Camaro and '87 Acura Legend. I don't know if they offer "direct fit" units for the LS. Sometimes with high mileage vehicles, something like degrading/degraded tune or oil consumption could be poisoning the converters as is the case with my +440k mile Legend. You're lucky you live outside of CA which requires CARB certified replacements which only adds to the purchase price.

I don't think it's a problem. The trunk lid on mine only pops up enough to clear the latch mechanism, leaving enough gap for my hand. I have to lift the lid the rest of the way manually.

Could be a bad battery cable. Sometimes they corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. It could also be a funky starter relay.

DTC P1600 = ECM Battery Malfunction Essentially, the DTC is telling you that the ECM has lost the +12 volt supply. I don't have a '95 model year manual for reference, so I'm not going to tell you to start probing around with a volt meter. However, you can check the fuse panel and of there's a fuse labeled "EFI No. 1" and check to see if it's open (blown). You can try replacing it but keep in mind, you still need to determine why the fuse blew in the first place.