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Everything posted by paulo57509

  1. Thanks for closing the loop and posting your fix.
  2. This is a pretty general statement. What makes you think you have a fuel pump problem? Can you describe the symptoms?
  3. Sounds like access via the key is a no-go. That leaves the switch circuit. I have no easy fix. Hopefully, someone will have one for you. In the mean time.... Attached are the relative pages from my '98 FSM. I have no work around for not having the scan tool. DI-701 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Switch Circuit.pdf DI-703 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Motor Circuit.pdf DI-676 Body Control System - Problem Symptoms Table.pdf DI-720 Body Control System - Luggage Compartment Door Lock and Unlock Switch Circuit.pdf BE-140 Power Door Lock Control System - Inspection.pdf
  4. P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax in 2008. These records may some of your questions. Regardless, the ECU you want is the latest part number. It will have the most recent calibrations.
  5. Why are the lower control arms being replaced? Bushing wear? Fronts or rears? Are you the original owner or did you buy it used? Was it in a wreck? If you haven't done so already, you might get a more informed response by posting at the GS forum:
  6. The wiper/washer is controlled by the Body ECU. The wiper motor circuit diagram doesn't show any relays. If there are relays, they're probably inside the Body ECU box. What kind of problem are you having? DI-685 Body Control System - Wiper Motor Circuit.pdf BE-82 Wiper and Washer System - Location.pdf
  7. Yes, definitely check the easy (cheap) stuff first. I've had good luck with Magnafow on both my '87 Camaro and '87 Acura Legend. I don't know if they offer "direct fit" units for the LS. Sometimes with high mileage vehicles, something like degrading/degraded tune or oil consumption could be poisoning the converters as is the case with my +440k mile Legend. You're lucky you live outside of CA which requires CARB certified replacements which only adds to the purchase price.
  8. I don't think it's a problem. The trunk lid on mine only pops up enough to clear the latch mechanism, leaving enough gap for my hand. I have to lift the lid the rest of the way manually.
  9. Could be a bad battery cable. Sometimes they corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. It could also be a funky starter relay.
  10. DTC P1600 = ECM Battery Malfunction Essentially, the DTC is telling you that the ECM has lost the +12 volt supply. I don't have a '95 model year manual for reference, so I'm not going to tell you to start probing around with a volt meter. However, you can check the fuse panel and of there's a fuse labeled "EFI No. 1" and check to see if it's open (blown). You can try replacing it but keep in mind, you still need to determine why the fuse blew in the first place.
  11. Very nice find! But where did your tool kit pen light disappear to?
  12. I don't know how cost effective this is these days, but 4 or 5 years ago I purchased a 2-day subscription to Toyota Information Services. I don't know if this is the same site or not: For two days (more than enough time) I downloaded the FSM's for my '98 LS400. I also downloaded any other publications that looked interesting. I did find a set of new FSM's on ebay for around $200, IIRC. But for the price of a subscription, it beats greasing up your hardbound manuals when you're under the hood or chassis. After downloading the manual sections, I took a few more days at the computer to organize the pages/sections. I've attached a sample. EM-15 Timing Belt - Removal.pdf
  13. New key programmng for '98-up models is a two step process. IIRC, you need to program the transponder before you can program the keyless entry. You need to have at least one pre-programmed key to program the transponder for the new key. Instructions are attached for those who need programming instructions. key programming.pdf keyless entry programming.pdf
  14. Like I posted on the "other" forum, it's not an Aisin kit. Read the "Item Specifics" section of that auction page.
  15. Reading through the 1998 factory service manual it looks like the following things need to removed in order to pull the carpet back. I would think it would be similar for a 1993 model. 1. Front door scuff (sill) plates. 2. The center air vents on the side of the center consoles. 3. Accellerator pedal. 4. Air ducts running under the front seats. 5. The lower hush panel above the passengerside footwell. It's strange that the service manual doesn't provide details on how to go about removing the this stuff. I did try to remove the drivers side sill plate on my car. I grabed the plate on the inside edge next to the carpet and lifted/rotated it up towards the outside of the car. I started at the rear and moved forward releasing the plate a little at a time. Once released it came off. The accelerator pedal was covered in an earlier post. I don't know about how to remove the center console vents. I would think a flat pry tool such as a putty knife would work to pop this out of its opening. The air ducts are fastened to the floor with one screw/bolt. You might have to remove the glove box to remove the lower hush panel. I can't open the passenger side door to my car enough the crawl under the dash - it's a tight fit in the garage and I was out there at 3AM doing a mock tear down.....
  16. You might want to check with your Lexus dealer on a replacement key. They'll probably need a key lock code number or something sililar. There might be a sticker applied to or a code written down someplace inside your owner's manual? The dealer might even have a "master" key set to remove the locks. At one time, GM used splined locking lug nuts and many dealerships used to have these key sets.
  17. Is the CEL, VSC or other warnings illuminated on intrument panel? Lots of things are tied into the VSC system; brakes, ABS, engine throttle, VVT-i...... I didn't read the entire VSC section in the FSM, but one of the simple things to check is for low brake fluid level as was preciously mentioned. This seems reasonable since your problem first started when there was side "G" loads such as high speed turns. Based on a quick general web search, some have indicted a dirty or bad oil control valve as the cause. This valve is part of the VVT-i system. But in these cases, the CEL and VSC warnings accompanied the warning sound.
  18. Is the oil pressure sending switch in that general area or is it near the oil filter?
  19. Look under the dash and under the steering column. On the hush panel near the foot well light you'll see a button. Pushing the button turns off the "beep" that sounds when you lock/unlock the doors with the remote. Push the button in and road test for a few days. See if the beeping stops. It might help in finding the source of the beeping (process of elimination). Push the button again to turn the lock/unlock beep back on.
  20. Just my opinion. YMMV..... I'm still a doubter when it comes to fluid changes followed closely with failure on high mileage transmissions. Even though it happened to me recently. The transmission had 131k miles on it and always had regular filter and fluid changes at 30k miles. The last time I did a fluid and filter change, I did a fluid exchange using the dillution method. 7000 miles later the 3-4 clutch pack burned up. 3-4 clutch pack failure is very common with this model transmission. I feel that when an AT transmission goes, it's going to go regardless of whether the fluid was/had been changed or not. This is something that cannot really be proved. "Do you feel lucky?" Edit: BTW, there is a distiction between a transmission flush (using cleaners/solvents) and just a fluid exchange (replacing old fluid with new). I would stay away from flushes. dilution calculator.xls
  21. I would try to find the lowest milage car in the model years you're interested in. LIke sha400 posted, I doubt there were any major changes between 1998 - 2000. I do like the HID headlights and the lack of an antenna mast. I also like the VVT-i as well. I would avoid the air suspension models based on other members having to deal with aging components.
  22. I have no idea where I found this (maybe it was in the service manual) but here's a run down of the new features introduced for the 1998 model year. One hundred and forty seven pages of information overload. new features.pdf
  23. I replied to to this topic yesterday but it disappeared after a few hours. O2 sensors typically come in two styles. Universal and OEM fits. The universals usually don't come with the connectors. They require you to remove the connector from the old sensor and splice it onto the new connector. The OEM fit sensors come with the connectors already attached. Hence the price difference. Since Denso is the OEM for Toyota, I'd be inclined to use Denso replacements that have the connectors already attached.,carcode,1187489,parttype,5132 Denso P/N 234-4211 upstream (OEM P/N's 89465-24050, 89465-50010) Denso P/N 234-2011 downstream (OEM P/N 89465-50050) Crawl under the car and take a look as part of your assessment for doing this yourself. According to the info at Sewell Lexus it appears that your car has four O2 senors. Two upstream (left and right) and two downstream (left and right). I'm pretty sure the Denso part numbers above fit either the left or right side. Did the estimate you received from Lexus Stevens Creek state which sensors needed to be replaced? Edit: Regarding the dowstream sensors; it appears that the downstream sensors on my '98 look similar to the ones on your '93. I'll dig out my service manual and check on the replacement procedure. My guess is that the sensor connection under the carpet is going to be obvious.
  24. I'm looking at Rock Auto's site and they list two sensors - upstream and downstream. The application list for your car lists a few options between brands. Denso is typically the OEM supplier to Toyota so I would be inclined to stick with them: Denso P/N 234-4211 for the upstream (OEM 89465-24050, 89465-50010) $48.79 ea Denso P/N 234-2011 for the downstream (OEM 89465-50050) $60.99 ea The cheaper priced O2 sensors usually don't come with the connector attached. They're more or less universal fit; you need to cut off the connector from your old sensor and attach it to the new one. The Denso ones listed above come with the connector already attached. It looks like your car may have four O2 sensors; left/right and upstream/downstream. Does the estimate from Lexus of Stevens Creek say which side the bad sensors need replacing? Their estimate should also show their hourly labor rate someplace. I would estmate it would take me a few hours (I work slow) to replace all four sensors and that works out to close to $190/hour. That seems a bit high. It's been 14 years since my Dad closed his shop in Mountain View and I have no idea what shops are charging for labor these days. You're not crazy for thinking If you do the job yourself, you'll need an O2 sensor socket to remove and install the sensors. The only risk is that sometimes the sensors get rusted in place and they can be a bear to get out. You might want to take a look at the access to the sensors before doing anything else.