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paulo57509

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Everything posted by paulo57509

  1. The fuel pump runs so we assume the circuit components for that are OK. No mention of whether or not the injectors are working. After killing three batteries from all that cranking, have you pulled a spark plug to see if it's drowned in fuel? If they're dry, I would find the relay box and replace the fuel injector relay.
  2. Try looking at the parts diagram for both model years on a Lexus parts website like this one: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/ Using your VIN is the best route to determine what you have. It might take some digging to find the correct parts diagrams. Look for "seat adjuster" (I think that's what Toyota calls them). There should be a "vehicle fitment" tab or you can cross-reference/compare the part numbers from both model years.
  3. You're replying to a post by someone who was last here 10 years ago. I doubt that you'll get a response. One of the things with car forums....cars die painful deaths and their owners disappear with them. You might try to find a more generic car audio forum?
  4. Good deal and you're welcome. If you have the space, keep the pump. You can use the pump as a rebuildable core down the road. Parts are getting to be an issue with our older cars. I need 2nd gear synchro rings for my old Legend but they've been discontinued from Honda and no one has them. This morning, I lucked out found a NOS 2nd gear gear set on ebay that had the synchros.
  5. 😬 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/oes-genuine-p-s-pump-pulley-m2060256779oes/11923280-P?utm_medium=ymme&vehicleIdSearch=23716&isAllVehicle=false They say it doesn't fit '93 MY. Probably not available etiher. Question: How the heck did the pulley get bent? In correct removal proceedure? At this point, I'd just buy the entire used pump with the pulley (time sensitive link), remove the pulley and pitch the pump.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-93-LEXUS-LS400-4-0L-V8-RWD-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-PULLEY-WITH-RESERVOIR-OEM/233899588381?fits=Model%3ALS400|Make%3ALexus
  6. I don't think so. Toyota changed the key programming on 1998 and up model years.
  7. Has any of the shops actually looked at the inputs that the ECU uses to control shift points? Best I can determine, these two solenoids do the shifting. These are the ones that you're probably interested in: 85420-50020 35270-50010 This one locks up the torque converter: 35280-50010 So far, the repair shops either seem to be scratching their heads, guessing or throwing parts at it. It's not the preferred way to go about this, but at this point why not just replace all three solenoids? It takes the same amount of labor to replace one as it does all of them.
  8. It's inside/attached to the outside of the fuel tank,
  9. I don't know the reason why there's two different units but I would think that there's a good reason for it.
  10. Read through this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html
  11. Given: The car starts. 2/3-rds of the keyless entry function works. 2/3-rds function is the same for both keys I would say that what ever controls the keyless entry that's inside the vehicle - body control module or door lock module is most likely at fault. Make sure that you're using the correct transponder/keyless entry instructions. 1998 - x model years use a different set if programming instructions. However, I don't know if this change affects the ES models. According to the 1998 LS400 FSM, to check the remote operation, stand 1-meter away from the
  12. I'm not a transmission expert nor do I have experience in diagnosing your particular problem. I'm posting the following in general terms as to what you can check and what may be happening. 1. Have you checked the fluid level? What color is the fluid? Does it smell burnt? Has the fluid ever been changed? 2. Who told you that the transmission needs to be replaced? Other than the trouble codes, has any other diagnostics been performed? You have two separate trouble codes: (http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html) 63 - Open or s
  13. There's a lot of garbage being sold on Amazon and ebay. In my experience, any unbranded, cheap, made in or being sent from China item is to be avoided like Wuhan city. I've tried more than a few sets of those LED headlight retrofit bulbs in a few of my cars and the failure rate out of the box and a few months down the road is horrendous. I've even had cell phone charger cords and counterfeit phone and camera batteries that were DOA.
  14. You're welcome. The speedometer needle in my '98 sticks (rarely) depending on the ambient temperature. I have read elsewhere that the problem is the instrument lube that's used in the gauge heads get sticky with age. The only real fix is to remove the cluster and have an instrument repair shop deal with it. There is a chance that he gauge cluster might have a bad connection at the circuit board ribbon cables, etc.
  15. The speedometer speed sensor is attached to the transmission tail shaft housing on the diver's side If the speedometer needle reads zero but the odometer is still incrementing, it's not the speed sensor. The tachometer gets its signal from the ignition system. I don't know exactly it ties into the ignition.
  16. It could be the crankshaft position sensor has failed. Find it and check its resistance. These are specs for my '98; I don't know if it apples to your '96. Resistance (cold): 1,630 - 2,740 ohms Resistance (hot): 2,065 - 3,225 ohms Crankshaft position sensors are around $50 (aftermarket) if you just want to throw parts at it. If you do go this route, ask if you can return the sensor if it's uninstalled. Compare the resistance of the new vs. existing sensor under the same temperature conditions.
  17. Maybe I'm missing something but what is the actual problem you're having?
  18. You hear the motor running, so the switch is doing what it's supposed to be doing. I suspect your problem is with the regulator. You're going to have to remove the door panel to confirm.
  19. Thanks for closing the loop and posting your fix.
  20. This is a pretty general statement. What makes you think you have a fuel pump problem? Can you describe the symptoms?
  21. Sounds like access via the key is a no-go. That leaves the switch circuit. I have no easy fix. Hopefully, someone will have one for you. In the mean time.... Attached are the relative pages from my '98 FSM. I have no work around for not having the scan tool. DI-701 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Switch Circuit.pdf DI-703 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Motor Circuit.pdf DI-676 Body Control System - Problem Symptoms Table.pdf DI-720 Body Control System - Luggage Compartment Door Lock and Unlock Switch Circuit.pdf BE-140 Power Door Lock Control System - Inspection.pdf
  22. https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/p/Lexus__/COMPUTER---ENGINE-CONTROL/63612676/8966150303.html P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax
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