paulo57509

Sometime around mid-1990's Toyota changed said knob/button from a volume control to just an push-on/push-off switch.

The image in your post of the assembly has extra hose barbs on the duct that isn't there on '98-'00 LS400's. Time sensitive: There's a used one for sale on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144409772307?epid=18024415676&hash=item219f7e4113:g:~LgAAOSwHZNiBy5y It even has the repaired hose barb too.

After confirming the battery in the fob is good, review the key programming procedure. L-EL004-98.pdf

If your leak is coming from the control valve that's discussed above, the part your looking for is attached. The part shown is for North American versions. If you're in Europe, please check with your local dealership; I can't imagine they'd be different, but one never knows.

New parts, especially body parts are pretty much unobtainium. Your best bet is to search pick-n-pull. You can go to a Lexus dealership website and look at their body parts diagrams to see what parts fit what years. In most cases, it will show this (see attachment). The attachment (example) was obtained from here: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/p/Lexus_1995_LS-400/Hood-Panel/63267719/5330150021.html Use caution with any Toyota/Lexus dealership parts lists/diagrams - they're confusing at times, parts don't match descriptions and parts are listed in categories that aren't obvious.

You replaced the engine; Why did you replace the engine? What condition was the replacement engine in? Just a salvage yard, used engine swap? Did you swap parts from the original engine to the replacement engine? Did you do anything to the replacement engine before/after the swap? Scanned for codes; were their any? Describe "loss of power". Is loss of power constant or intermittent? Have you checked your fuel pressure?

The corner lights aren't designed to be functional on NA models, but you already know this. You can try to source JDM or EU corner lamps that are designed to accept a bulb/socket. You can then wire them to whatever circuit you choose. Here's a partial discussion (but it gets a bit off topic): https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/960728-illuminating-cornering-lamp-assemblies.html https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/625299-what-are-these-lights.html https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/768691-corner-running-lights.html

If there's issues with the VSC, it should store a diagnostic Trouble Code(s) (DTC). There are around 10 different codes. I would have the vehicle scanned for these codes. Be aware that not all generic scanners will scan for manufacturer-specific codes. You may end up having to have the dealership scan for the codes.

Your best course of action is to find a service manual for your car and review the steps that are involved with removing the cylinder heads. Check your local library. They may have a shop manual on the shelf.

Is this table correct? Did you try connecting the passenger seat to the driver harness? On the surface, sounds like you have a driver side harness issue. Q: Does your car have seat memory function?

This actuator was only used on model years 1990 - 1994 so they're kind of hard to find in any condition. There are two options: 1) Pick-and-Pull auto wrecking yards 2) Ebay Both come with risks as the actuator you get may be in the same or worse condition than the part you're going to replace. However, I've taken the eBay risk in the past on other unobtanium car parts and have a high rate of satisfaction, generally speaking. Currently, there are two driver's side door actuators listed on eBay. One is refurbished/rebuilt and one is used. I would take a chance on the refurbished one; it appears from the listing that because the person wants your old unit in return, he/she takes the good "guts" out of several returns to make good, operational ones and re-sells them (which is what you'll be receiving). Ebay search for P/N 6904050070 or P/N 69040-50070 and you'll get the listings. Good luck.

Jeremy, you're very welcome. I'm glad you found your issue. I don't know if you've heard of Toyota Information Service (TIS). It's a subscription service; pay for a 2-day subscription and you have access to all Toyota documentation and everything is downloadable. Drop $20 and have a download-fest for a few days. You can manipulate the .pdf files (they're not password protected) if you have Acrobat https://techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx The subscription payment is handled by a third party (snap-on?) and the portal link is emailed to you.

IMO, I would take it to the Toyota dealer. The 1UZ engine should be familiar to Toyota mechanics as variations of that engine (2UZ - cast iron block) are used in some Toyota V8 trucks. Having the parts counter right across from the service department is convenient. Although this might be a wash as parts for a +20 year old car will probably not be on the shelf. The upside is if the warehouse has the parts, its an overnight shipment in most cases. The downside is it can be quite expensive. I would get quotes from both the dealership and independent shops.

If it's all of them I would think it's the input to the ECU that tells it what the throttle is doing and not the transmission itself (shift solenoids); what Jeremy is saying. The A650E seems to occasionally have issues with slow TCC release. Perhaps that's what is causing the slow downshift? https://transgo.com/product-details/toyota-lexus-a650e-shift-kit/ I would look at other things before tearing into the valve body.

Which downshift is slow? OD-->4th, 4th --> 3rd, 3rd --> 2nd, 2nd -->1st?

You're very welcome. Let me know if there's any other docs you might need.

Please see attached. These pages are from the 1998 FSM. You will probably need an OBD-II scan tool (not just a code reader) that will report road speed. DI-100 Engine - DTC P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction.pdf IN-30 How To Troubleshoot ECU Controled Systems - How to Use Diagnostic Chart and Proceedu.PDF BE-99 Combination Meter - Inspection.pdf

The large hose is available from Toyota, P/N 44348-50010. The small hose is only sold as part of the hard line assembly, P/N 44406-50160. This line is +$140 and some change. The small hose is actually 10mm ID which is difficult, if not impossible to find. 3/8" ID hose is a super tight fit even if you spray silicone lube on the nipple and hose. The only 10mm hose I found I purchased here (medium pressure chemical hose): https://www.mcmaster.com/hose/id~10mm/connection-style~without-fittings/ It's made of Buna-N which is compatible with ATF. The only thing is this hose is stiff but it's workable. I haven't been running this hose very long (a few days) so I can't comment on how well it lasts but by all accounts, it should work for the PS system. It just looks funky. Alternatively, you might want to inquire at your local hydraulic shop for the proper sized hose.

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0307.html https://www.engine-codes.com/p0308.html Black plugs - either you have injectors that have incorrect dwell time (due to getting incorrect input from sensors) or a weak ignition. Cap/rotor and/or plug wires?

The attachment is for a 1998-2000 model year, but it still applies here. SR-3 Power Steering Fluid - Bleeding.pdf

Have you checked for burnt out bulbs?

What injector tests were run? Have you performed a fuel pressure leak down test? What coil tests were done? Are all the plugs black or just no's. 7 and 8?

Here's a related thread at CL. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Are you sure it's a capacitor issue or just assuming due to symptoms? Sometimes it best to send the cluster out to have it repaired. Just an example: https://lexusinstrumentclusterrepair.com/ I have not had work done by this individual (he IS in CA) but I have used other similar services. You can do a search for him here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000-183/

Determine where the fuel leak is and repair. White smoke is coming out from where? Tailpipe? White smoke is an indication of moisture/water. White "smoke" is typically normal at start-up after the engine sits overnight. It's more moisture (steam) than smoke and usually disappears after a few minutes. If it's really heavy and persists, you probably have coolant getting into the combustion chambers - headgasket? What condition is the engine you installed? Wrecking yard - Used? Rebuilt?