paulo57509

Sorry you had issues. You're lucky you don't have a later model with an interference engine. FWIW, Toyota uses form-in-place gasket (silicone sealer) for the oil pan, oil pump, water pump and a lot of other places.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/972624-93-ls400-lexus-oem-engine-valve-grind-kit.html

The last time WeSki was on the site was 2017. It's doubtful that you'll get a response. I can't help you with testing, I might be able to help you with the part number. 1993 shows two different EGR valves for 1993 - 25620-50010 - 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993 25620-50020 - 1993, 1994 Both EGR valves are no longer available from the dealer. However, because it appears that 1993 was a change-over year for the EGR (1993 used wither one or the other), the best way to go is to either: 1) Go to the dealer with your VIN and they can tell you which valve is correct. 2) Go to a Lexus dealership's web site (ex: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/) and search yourself. Once you have the Toyota/Lexus part number, you can search the aftermarket for a valve: https://www.partsvoice.com/ https://www.rearcounter.com/ https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/ Last resort: https://www.ebay.com/ Desperate last resort: https://www.amazon.com/ Good luck.

Do you have a service manual? Maybe the attachment will help. It's from my '98 LS400 Toyota manual but it applies to your model year as well. Route the belt: Crankshaft Left bank cam Right bank cam Remember, any slack in the belt should be on the tensioner side of the belt run. EM-22 Timing Belt - Installation.pdf

It's part of the valve assembly shown below.

You might try Tire Rack or similar web sites. They usually have stock, +1, +2, etc. wheel sizes listed. This will give you an idea of what fits and what doesn't on a stock suspension car.

More likely an intermittent or an open connection. I would carefully inspect the coil connectors and injector connectors back to the ECU. I would focus on #5 and #7 cylinders first. Funny as it sounds, wiggle testing the connectors is a legit test. When I did my timing belt I also replaced the cam cover gaskets; removing the coil connectors, every tab of every connector housing broke off from becoming brittle with age and heat. Not a big deal but I replaced the housings anyway. I inspected the injector connectors as well - just prying open the convoluted sleeve from the injector wiring harness, several wires from the injector connectors broke off. Also, insulation from the wires were brittle and broke off exposing bare wire. Since you seem to be just throwing parts at this, perhaps the next thing to try is another ECU. However, there are issues with replacing junk yard ECU's; they need to be programmed to work with your key transponder. Read here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html There are also places that will inspect, repair, test and return your ECU. Just do an internet search for, "lexus ecu repair".

Are these the only two trouble codes? While these code are generic, they really aren't random misfire codes. They specifically point to cylinders 5 and 7. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0305 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0307 I don't know what parts were replaced when you swapped engines. But since you mentioned the same issue(s) was present before the engine swap, you can discount the "new" engine being the problem. Read the links above and thoroughly address each item under "Causes". I've attached pages from the Lexus shop manual for the trouble codes you listed. These are from my 1998 shop manual but they should still apply to your 1999 model. Hopefully, these will help. DI-61 Engine - DTC P0300 - Random_Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.pdf I believe if you fix the misfire issues at cylinder 5 and 7 these other issues will go away. These other issues are a result of the two cylinders misfiring. Typically, a flashing CEL (vs. a steady on CEL) denotes a serious issue where engine damage is imminent. I had a code P0303 on my GMC and found the injector stuck open - flashing CEL was pointing to imminent damage to the catalytic converter due to raw fuel getting into the exhaust system.

Your post is confusing. Example: You mention "throttle body injectors..." LS400's don't have throttle body injection. Calm down and try to re-group. What symptoms are you experiencing? Describe in detail. You have trouble codes? What are they? Not just their description but the actual codes.

You can find them on line at your local Lexus dealership website under "parts". Toyota parts online is at times a futile search so I'll save you the trouble. However, you'll want to confirm these numbers with your local Lexus parts counter. Item No. 33723T is P/N 9048017001 Item No. 35569C is P/N 9048017023 Page link: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/a/Lexus_1993_LS-400/_65512_6729902/SHIFT-LEVER--RETAINER/431410-3312.html

Try looking for vacuum leaks. Is your check engine light on? Check for trouble codes. You might have a coolant temperature sensor that's reading cooler than normal.

What does the high side read?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/962101-instrument-cluster.html https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/962101-instrument-cluster.html Try someplace similar to this: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=instrument+cluster+repiar&ia=web I've used Circuit Board Medics but for an oven controller.

The car dies with both the "new" and the old boxed alternator? First off, confirm that the battery can take and hold a full charge. Performing any electrical tests with a weak or bad battery will yield meaningless results.

Back in 2018, I went to the Toyota Information Service website and spent the $20 for a two day subscription. It didn't take long to download all the documents that were available for my model year LS400. https://techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx

Are you a regular customer of your local mechanic? Take the car there and get a second opinion. Only describe the symptoms you had and don't tell him/her that you've already taken it to the dealer. See what shakes out. 🤔

This is such BAD practice and should never be done. The battery shorts AC spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery while the engine is running allows spikes and transients to run throughout the car's electrical system potentially causing damage to every semiconductor circuit in the car. At best, this practice can also damage the alternator diodes and voltage regulator. Electrical damage doesn't happen in every instance this is done. But now that you're having issues who knows where the fault it.

The fuel pump runs so we assume the circuit components for that are OK. No mention of whether or not the injectors are working. After killing three batteries from all that cranking, have you pulled a spark plug to see if it's drowned in fuel? If they're dry, I would find the relay box and replace the fuel injector relay.

Try looking at the parts diagram for both model years on a Lexus parts website like this one: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/ Using your VIN is the best route to determine what you have. It might take some digging to find the correct parts diagrams. Look for "seat adjuster" (I think that's what Toyota calls them). There should be a "vehicle fitment" tab or you can cross-reference/compare the part numbers from both model years.

You're replying to a post by someone who was last here 10 years ago. I doubt that you'll get a response. One of the things with car forums....cars die painful deaths and their owners disappear with them. You might try to find a more generic car audio forum?

Good deal and you're welcome. If you have the space, keep the pump. You can use the pump as a rebuildable core down the road. Parts are getting to be an issue with our older cars. I need 2nd gear synchro rings for my old Legend but they've been discontinued from Honda and no one has them. This morning, I lucked out found a NOS 2nd gear gear set on ebay that had the synchros.

😬 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/oes-genuine-p-s-pump-pulley-m2060256779oes/11923280-P?utm_medium=ymme&vehicleIdSearch=23716&isAllVehicle=false They say it doesn't fit '93 MY. Probably not available etiher. Question: How the heck did the pulley get bent? In correct removal proceedure? At this point, I'd just buy the entire used pump with the pulley (time sensitive link), remove the pulley and pitch the pump.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-93-LEXUS-LS400-4-0L-V8-RWD-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-PULLEY-WITH-RESERVOIR-OEM/233899588381?fits=Model%3ALS400|Make%3ALexus&hash=item3675807b1d:g:e~cAAOSwlYtgLS8a

Pick-and-Pull.....

I don't think so. Toyota changed the key programming on 1998 and up model years.

Has any of the shops actually looked at the inputs that the ECU uses to control shift points? Best I can determine, these two solenoids do the shifting. These are the ones that you're probably interested in: 85420-50020 35270-50010 This one locks up the torque converter: 35280-50010 So far, the repair shops either seem to be scratching their heads, guessing or throwing parts at it. It's not the preferred way to go about this, but at this point why not just replace all three solenoids? It takes the same amount of labor to replace one as it does all of them. Aftermarket solenoid kits with all three solenoids are less than $150 (Rostra P/N 529002). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,1996,ls400,4.0l+v8,1187513,transmission-automatic,shift+solenoid,8476 There's a 4th solenoid that controls line pressure as well - it's the one with the long "nose".