AustinGT

This afternoon my brother and I replaced the alternator with an OEM Denso one, and also fixed the broken trunk hinge wires. It was frustrating though because the lights are still seem to be a big load on the engine at slow idle. I did notice that the fog lights were more of a draw than the headlights.... Just wondering if there could be anything that would be still causing this given that the wiring and alternator have been fixed.....Thanks!

The guy at Autozone tested the car, and said that the alternator was weaker than it should be, like roughly 70 amps at 2000 w/load, and about 13.5 volts at idle... My first reaction was to take it to the shop and have them replace it but 1) they are on vacation and 2) it doesn't look like that difficult of a job, and my dad and I have done some work on the LS before. However, I don't think I will get the Autozone alternator seeing as its made in Mexico, and I have doubts as to its longevity.... Is there a place online that has instructions on how to replace it? I checked the LexLS site but it didn't have anything. Thanks!

I took the battery down to Autozone last night (didn't have time to take the alternator) to have them check it, and according to the machine there it is fine. I also noticed that putting on the brakes w/the lights on makes them flicker for just a second then recover... This is a long shot, but the trunk hing wires have been starting to act up recently, could that be causing an abnormal electrical draw? I may sound like a total dummkopf, but can Autozone test the alternator without taking it out? I assumed you had to remove it before testing....

Hey everyone- it's been a long time (graduated college, new job, many hours, etc.) since I've been in. My apologies! I realize that forums are two way streets, and haven't been participating as such.... Still, this evening I was coming home (from voting!) and when I got into the garage the engine was under some kind of load and the radio was at a reduced volume. I turned the lights off and the radio came back to regular volume and the engine returned to a normal rpm (it was running about 75-100 rpm slow). I flipped the lights on again and the engine bogged down 75-100 rpm before the computer brought it back to normal. Is this an early sign that my alternator is headed south? I immediately hooked up the battery charger, but the battery was fully charged. Could it still be the alternator, or is there a problem with the headlights somewhere? I am hoping to jump on this before it gets to be a big problem! Thanks a lot.... Austin

It has been a while since I posted this, and should have wrapped it up earlier- my apologies! Anyway, I think I got some crappy gas- that sounds weird, but it only happened right after I filled up at the corner gas station (cheapest around). I used premium like usual, but it must have been something in the gas, because next time I bit the bullet and used Chevron, then Costco, and no problems since. At least that is what I am telling myself- I did check the transmission fluid and did a drain and fill, and it wasn't as bad as I thought (I am due for another oil change, and will do another drain and fill then). Thanks for all the input guys!

An update- I disconnected the battery this afternoon to see if resetting the ecu would help, the thought being to try easy things first. When I started it after reconnecting the battery, it fired right up and was fine. However, when I started it to go to class this evening, it stumbled again before catching and idling properly. The car upshifted fine, but one time I let up on the gas and it stumbled as the revs dropped. On my way home, as the car warmed up it stumbled big time then caught again <_< (it was in gear, so that should rule out the tranny). At this point, my guess would be some kind of sensor, perhaps O2? To wrap it up, whatever is wrong causes it to stumble upon startup, at one spot while warming up, and when upshifting under power. Any help is (and has been) greatly appreciated!

Thankfully my car doesn't have TC (and 'cause I'm in the Valley it isn't needed)... The reason my first thought was the ecu was sometimes (like two or three times a month) when I cold start it, it stumbles for a second then catches and idles like normal. I thought that this most recent incident with the stumbling when shifting might me related... But the trans was in "norm" mode, so I will be careful to not have the throttle down when it is about to shift.... p.s.- if it is the ecu, could disconnecting the battery and resetting it help? Thanks...

Hey guys, don't want to be one that cries wolf for no reason, but today I was making a right hand turn and had to goose the LS a little to make it. It revved to about 2900 rpm in first, then on the upshift seemed to lose power and stumbled for a second before it shifted into second, but the car lost momentum and lurched forward until it caught. I tried to replicate the problem, and the only time it would do anything close was on another right turn under power, but it wasn't as bad. As you all know, the ecu cuts power for a millisecond to smooth out the upshifts, and it seemed like this time it cut way too much power. I don't think this is a tranny issue, but WWest said my earlier post on downshifting could be the result of u-joints. Could this be a u-joint issue, or is it an ecu problem? Any input would be tremendously appreciated so I don't over-react and have a coronary :(

217,000 miles, not sure about the condition of the u-joints, although I have the car checked regularly by the shop... Would they make noise as the transmission works down through the gears? What confuses me is that it doesn't always make the subtle clunk... only at times. I have heard that the LS transmission is pretty durable provided the fluid is kept fresh, and I drive like someone much older than my age to take it easy on the car!

Got a quick question... When my '92 is slowing down and the engine is totally warmed up, I can feel and hear the tranny downshift from 3rd to 2nd with a moderate clunk. It only happens when I am gradually slowing, and the engine is at hot idle which is around 600 rpm. When the engine is colder and is idling higher, everything is fine. Upshifts at any speed and temperature are smooth, and the downshifting in the other gears when hot is fine as well, it is only between those gears when warmed up. I was hoping to find out if this is a major problem or what... Thanks very much in advance! p.s. I have been draining and filling the fluid, and did the third round last weekend, plus the fluid was changed by the dealer (rip off!) 18k ago, plus it is pretty clear and doesn't smell burned.

I have the Nakamichi, and when I bought the car a few years ago both front mids were dead, and the left rear was halfway gone. With my brother's help I replaced all four of the mids, and the system sounds fine. We didn't replace any wires, so for whatever reason the front speakers just quit... from what I have heard that isn't totally uncommon among early Nak systems, but I could be wrong

No lights have come on at all... Although my radio cut out randomly (the only way I can hear anything at all is if I crank it up full blast), but I doubt that is related to a cold start issue.

An update- this morning after sitting overnight the same thing happened ... Last night I drove it a little bit, then it sat for a few hours, but it started up normally, so it only "coughs" or chugs for a second or two when it is completely cold. Don't know if this helps to narrow it down...

The plugs were changed by the dealer (what a rip off!) about two and half years and 15k miles ago, so they should still be good. As for the idle speed, it always runs around 1400 when cold, then slows down after about 20-30 seconds. When hot, it idles in Park around 650 rpm without the a/c on, and about 600 in Drive. The idle speeds have stayed constant, it is just the catch right after start-up that caught me off guard.... Could a plug be fouled up or something?

This afternoon as I started the LS (after sitting overnight, inside fortunately!) it kind of coughed around 1000 rpm for a second before something caught and the rpms went back up to 1400 like normal. After I washed it, I fired it back up to move it back into the garage, and it did the same thing, but it was less noticeable this time. This happened once before about two years ago after it sat for 10 days, but other than that it has never done this. The car ran fine once started, but should this be chalked up to a freak occurrence or something that needs to be looked into further? Thanks in advance.....