smooth1

What!!!??? Yur gonna have to come up with alot of proof before I ever buy any of that jack! I wanna see pics of the Bentley in the garage of the house you showed us pics of already with todays paper in there. Park the Rolls just outside. I find it way to hard to believe that daddy would snivel over 4 g's to fix juniors Lexus, and would instead decide to have mommy lie to the insurance company because it's judgement like that that got them where they are today. Yeah, that makes alot of sense.

Oh yeah, that looks much better! that last night shot I think really shows the clarity the best. Looks just like new.

Moved to the ES forum. You should get more help here.

ok, so how does this work? I signed up, now what?

lawyer

nmi dc

Welcome to the LOC. :)

From reading your post, I think your saying that the new aftermarket headlights are HID and didn't come with the ballasts? Which is very common. The ballast is very expensive, and generally the stock ballast is reusable. But in your case you had a water problem and now the ballast has shorted out? If you need another ballast, I would just get one from Ebay.(should be between 50-75 bucks) I've gotten a couple from there in the past and I have yet to have any trouble with them. They are usually just used ballasts from other IS 300's. If you turn the old headlight upside down, there is a plastic plate with 4 or 5 screws in it. Just romve those and the gasket, and inside there is the ballast. Maybe try your old one first?

I wouldn't bother with the Autozone sensors. I have found that you really need the Denso 02 sensors. Bosch and all those don't seem to work very well in these cars.

Welcome to the LOC. I would use some electronics cleaner and a vacuume to try and clean the buttons off. Just make sure you disconnect the battery on the car first, then spray some in between the buttons and give it a little time to soak. Then push the buttons and move around the cleaner and vacuume as much of it out as you can. Then make sure you give it enouph time to completely dry before you send voltage thru there again. I would wait atleast an hour or so. As for the missing parts, try dcfish. (he's a member here who is authorized to sell OEM nav and stereo systems here. He may have some laying around, or know where to get them from.

What's the spec on the wheels and tires? I can't seem to find the minimum recommended offset anywhere... Do you know what they are or where I can get it? Love the tint by the way. I wish I can do the same on mine, but I just know some cop will make me take it off someday I went with 19x8.5 front, 19x9.5 rear, and 36 mm offsets for the front and rear. I measured the wells a few times and I went back and fourth. I just wanted to make sure I don't have any rubbing issues, and I'm dropped about 1.25 inches also. from looking at my setup, I would say that 32 mm is about max. if you lower the car also.

Well, it took just over 4 months to come in, but now that they're on, it seems so worth the wait. i just put them on last night, so I snapped a few pics this morning to post them up. After a bit I'll do a full detail and take some really good pics and post them in the Show and Shine forum later. But here's a few for now:

Loved it! That was great!

The Is is beautiful and you've done a great job with the LX! 11 years old and looks almost brand new! How many miles on it?

I really enjoyed the article on "monkeysphere" BillyShaft. Thanks. :)

I don't mind the tail lights so much, but the headlights are terrible. Overall, the car is hot. allways has been to me. I saw one at the auto show. They had it roped off though.

Theres no need to delete or close this thread. EVERYONE is entitled to their point of view. cduluk, I know you came here looking for some advice on how to fix your RX, If you didn't want any other advice, then you should not have included all the rest of the information you posted. Just because the answers your getting aren't the ones you like, doesn't mean they aren't valid. Honesty goes along way. There are alot of very good people here who are trying to help you. It's unfortunate that you don't see it that way.

You can, but it's not a direct fit. The output shafts are different and so are the support brackets.

I think it's time we take a closer look at the UAW as a society. Actually, labor unions in general. The UAW has turned into what it was fighting against. Along with alot of the other labor unions.

Oh that's funny you should bring this up! I just switched over from Norton to McAfee for that very reason. (make sure your only running one firewall too. Microsoft has one already on, so you have to turn that off.) But since I switched over to the McAfee suite my computer has been much faster, and alot more stable. ( I'm still on XP though also.) I think Norton just runs slower for some reason.

Yeah, it's probably the battery. I have a Microsoft mini mouse that uses 1 AA battery now. That thing lasts a long time! But the mouse I had before it would eat 2 AA batteries almost monthly. And when they started to get weak it would do just what your saying. It would start to lag behind and the pointer would freeze, but the scroll would still work. Then it start freakin out and the pointer would just do what it felt like. I would change the battery and all would be fine again. But now that I got this new mouse, I would say it's been atleast 6 months since I have had to change the battery.

I would go back there and tell them you'll give them $1200.00 to fix the exsisting doors right instead. Your asking for a different set of issues and problems by just replacing the entire doors. They won't fit or line up exactly right. All the panels and door internals will need to be tranferred to the new doors, and that never works out right. Later your window motors will have problems and door lock servos and door seal issues, the paint will be off some( Especially Toyota Blue!). We fix these problems all the time. Just have them fix the tire well and the trim. Then fill and primer the door and replace the cover panels. You will be much happier later. Not to mention if they do just what I said, you won't even have any repaint on the RX except for the panels. (Just make sure they use enouph flex agent in the paint.) And I agree with some of the others here. You shouldn't lie to the insurance comapany. Very bad Karma. Either report the truth and have them fix it, or deal with it yourself like a man. Having your mommy lie for you seems, well, you know,,, wrong. And she should know better. What kind of example is she setting for you to follow?

I keep looking thru the pics you posted. I would find a local body shop and just walk thru the repair with them. If the door opens and closes fine, then I would just have them fill the quarter panel damage and replace the tire well trim. Then fill the rip in the door and replace the trim peices. Which will cover all the damage anyway. So long as they paint match the trim, you would never know it happened. I'm still thinking $1200.00 is a good number. Maybe $1500.00 if they have to do some other work I can't see from the pics. and I would pay this out of pocket no question. There is a huge difference between getting into an accident with someone and it was thier fault and the insurance co. has someone to go after. But these no fault accidents are a killer!

Not bad! to bad about the crush bends though. You would have had much better flow with the mandrel bends. I also would have put a bit more space between the pipes before they seperate to the mufflers. The pic might just make that look closer than what they really are though too. the welds do look pretty clean though. (that's how you can really tell if they did a good job or not.)

Yeah, the bigger issue that is completely overlooked is moisture.Air compressors and pumps require water removers and line dryers. But alot of these "air" stations go unmaintenanced, and can pack alot of water in the air lines. Without even knowing it you could be inflating your tires with very moist air or even water. You should allways check the air coming out first by using the other side of your tire pressure gauge and press the air valve open to let air flow from the line so you can make sure it's just air coming out and to give the stale moist air out first. Or invest in a tire inflator and do it at home. That is the best way.