smooth1

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Everything posted by smooth1

  1. If you would like to contribute and add to our list, please feel free. This is what we have been able to compile so far. I would really like us to have a nice data base that covers most do it yourself issues. Please take a moment to thank the members that contributed thier time and effort into making these for your use. How to reset maintanence schedule light How to install tinted overlays on the taillights List of voice commands How to install coilovers How to paint your Brake Calipers How to turn off the seatbelt warning beeper How to oil change IS250 How to change Diff fluid IS350 How to open center console
  2. smooth1

    How To

    Ok, here are some links I have found that were posted in the past here. I plan on doing some updated ones for the forum myself, but here are these atleast just for now. These are links and props should go to those who put thier time and effort into making these. Removing painted pin stripes Where can I get an 02 sim? MAF and IAT cleaning Fog light mod How To Change Your Headlights Replacing Your Head Unit with Metra and Avid D-3 Oil Change How To install coil overs How to paint your brake calipers
  3. Turn the vehicle off. 1 - Press & Hold the ODO trip reset button on the instrument cluster. 2 - Turn on the ignition on without starting the motor.(Push IGN switch without pressing the brake.) 3 - Continue to hold the trip reset button until the ODO shows "000000" The light will now be reset for another 5k.
  4. The tools you will need are: Spring Compressor ( You can get this as a free loaner tool from any Advance Auto Parts. I'm sure other auto parts stores offer the same programs.) 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, sockets and wrenches. 3/8 drive for the 10-17mm should be fine, but I would strongly suggest a 1/2 drive for the 19mm. I also used a 25 inch flex handle breaker bar. Floor jack and jack stands. 1 spare screw type or small hydraulic jack 6mm, 8mm allen wrenches Hammer A small standard screw driver, a medium phillips head screwdriver Torque Wrench 2 coil spring wrenches( These should have come with the coilsprings.) The new springs: Step 1) I started with the rear suspension first. You don't have to, I thought it was just easier to get these out of the way as the rear coils for the Tenabe Pro Sustec's reuse the stock hats and upper mounts. So start by removing the trunk liner. There are 3 slide latches under the trunk deck you just pull toward you and remove. Next I used a small screwdriver to slide into the retainer slips and popped them out. I also noticed latches on the floor of the trunk ( the silver ones for bungy cords and so on) have a reverse black cover that pulls out revealing a phillips screw that will need to be removed. Also be careful of the wire for the trunk light. Just pop it off at the light and now you can remove trunk liner. 2) Jack up the car and place the jack stands for safety. I used the center brace right behind the differential for the floor jack, and I just located 2 points for the jack stands. 3) remove the rear wheels. 4) Loosen the top mounts with a 14 mm wrench inside the trunk. Remove the 12mm nut holding the sway bar endlink to the control arm. Then remove the 17mm nut and bolt connecting the coilover to the control arm, and the 17mm nut/bolt that holds the control arm to the hub assembly. Now using a 10 mm socket and extension, you'll need to remove the tire well lining around where the coilover is to get access to the two 12mm bolts that anchor the coilovers to the chassis. I circled the 10 mm bolts to remove the liner, and pointed the arrows at the 12 mm bolts to be removed underneath. 5) Now finish removing the 14mm bolts that hold the upper mounts on, and carefully push the control arm down to allow enouph room for the stock coilover to come out. BE CAREFUL!! The rubber hose on your right is a brake line. Stock coilover: With the Tanabe coilover, and with Tein and others as well, you have to reuse the stock strut hat and bumpstops. So at this point your going to need to use the spring compressor on the stock coilover and compress the spring in order to take the tension off the hat. Do not attempt to disassemble the coilover before or without the spring compressor. Don't over compress the spring as well. In the picture above, I circled the center coil seat. There is a rubber seat there. You can see when the coil is compressed enouph by looking at that seal. You don't want to create a gap there, you just want to uncompress that rubber seat. Once you have done that, you can remove the 17mm nut that holds the strut hat on. I would still unthread this slowly as the rubber mounts will expand and make a slight "pop" also now. Now slide the hat up and off: And now slide the oem bump stop washer, bushing and collar off. Keeping the assembly the same slide it on the new coilover: And now put the OEM hat on the new coilover and tighten the strut bolt.*Tip: try to make sure the thrust washer/joint seal is seated correctly. and if your new coilover has helper springs, make sure the end of the helper spring isn't directly over the end of the coilspring itself. I allways turn them 90 degrees from each other. It's a common mistake that gets made and can lead to a coil squeak noise later. 6) Your now ready to slide the coilover back into positon. At this point it would be good to have a friend guide the top of the coilover back into the upper mount while you work on positioning the lower mounts and moving the control arm back into place. If you don't have a friend, then you may need to put on some safety glasses so you can look straight up into the upper mount from underneath the car and work it into position. 7)Replace all the bolts and nuts. A note here: tighten the lower control arm bolts first, then the two 12mm support bolts on the well, then do the upper mounts last. You have to make sure the coilover in aligned and correctly seated. If you tighten the upper mounts first, you won't be able to tell if it is aligned right or not. 8) It's going to be up to you to determine the correct ride height. So, I would just put the lower seat collars in the middle of the threading for now. Make sure you lock the seat tight with the locking collar so they don't move. Keep in mind that over the next 2 weeks, the coilover springs are going to settle a bit. I would wait atleast that long to determine the exact height setting you want then. For now we just want to put everything on correctly. And come back later to get the ride height dialed in. You'll see how I did that process later in this tutorial. 9) Torque everything down, and double check all your bolts and lines. Do the same for the other side. Replace the trunk liner and your now ready to move to the front suspension.
  5. smooth1

    Rx "how To"

    I've noticed some How to's floating around here, and rather then have them lost on the back pages I figured I would just link them all in here for everyone to use. If you know of any others or would like to make one, let me know and I'll link them in here. These were just some of the ones I could find. 2003 RX 300 Repair manual 1999 RX 300 Manual Idle Air Control / Idle air control valve & throttlebody cleaning $15 repair for Door actuator Navigation Hacks and hidden menues and options Trailor hitch assembly and How to 1999 RX antenae replacement step by step How to smoke out your tail lights Step by step RX 330 Oil Change 2004 RX 330 Spark Plug replacement
  6. smooth1

    Wheel Set Ups

    Post a few pics of your set up with : Mfgr: Rims: Size: Offset: Tire Mfgr: Tire Size: suspension set up and amount of drop: Only wheel setups and suspension setups on this cool? :) Now go get a pic and post it here!
  7. Here's a very budget minded mod that really adds alot of visual impact. There are several ways to go about this, and I'll try to cover those as I go along. I have done it several different ways, I just chose to do it this way this time. I really like the Stop Red color, but you can choose any color really. It's up to you. If you choose to use heat temp. spray paint, (Duplicolor is a popluar choice), in this case, I really suggest removing the calipers from the car, pulling the pads out, and taping it off to go this route. Alot more work, but if you want a different color, it's probably the best way to go, other than sending the calipers in to have them powder coated. I have done that also with great results. Usually will cost in the area of 35-50 bucks each to have them powder coated, unless you have a freind in the business to help you out there. So, I used a Ceramic Brake Caliper painting kit : You will also need a can of High Temp Clear coat spray paint, 4 peices of tin foil about 6"x6", and an extra can of brake parts cleaner. Your also going to need a few sheets of 120 grit sand paper, a roll of painter tape, some old towels, (clean), and optional Lexus caliper decals, some old newspaper, and a comfy low chair to sit on. :) 1) I use a floor jack and 2 jack stands for safety and lift the front 2 wheel off the ground. Remove the tires, and clean the calipers off. 2) Put the newspaper on the floor under the brake caliper and place the towels over the fender above the caliper and around the entire wheel well. Using the 120 grit sand paper, your essentially going to scrub the caliper off and make sure you get in those smaller areas where breakdust can build up. The better you do at this, the better the paint will adhere to the caliper, and the fewer chips and cracks will show up later. take your time, do it right now, and you won't have to come back and do it again later. Sand it down, and then "rinse" the caliper off with the brake parts cleaner. It should look like this: 3) Now using the painters tape, you'll need to tape off the parts you don't want to get paint on. Like the pads, clips, hoses and bleeder valve on both sides of the car. Taping both sides off now will give you the right amount of time to stay productive while waiting for paint to dry. 4)Replace the old newspaper on the floor under the caliper to be painted and put the 6x6 peice of tin foil on the front corner of it. I also taped off the rotor and the hub cause I can get a little messy. , But just make sure you don't get any paint on the rotor. It's a ceramic paint, and it can glaze the pad. So just be careful. 5) Using the brush apply the paint. I really reccommend a really light first 2 coats. Don't even try to make the caliper red yet. Just distribute the paint, evenly, and as thin as you can. With about 5 minutes between coats. Do this on the tin foil also. Then on the third coat, go to a medium thick coat. Wait about 15 minutes, then with the 4th coat, take your time and give it one last medium coat, along with the tin foil also, and try to get all the areas. If you go to heavy right away, it's going to loose alot of the nice sharp lines the caliper has. And it will have a strange coated appearance to it, rather than a nice clean finish to it. Don't glop it on. 6) You'll need to let the final coat harden for about 45 minutes to an hour. Don't wait any longer than that though. So, seeing as how you already taped off both sides, you should have plenty of time to go to the other side of the car and paint that caliper up now. Once you finished painting the other side, you can come back to this caliper. Now using the tin foil, test it to make sure it has hardened enouph to apply the decal. I use my finger and just press on it hard. If it leaves a print on it, then you may have to wait another 15 minutes or so. Using the painted tin foil to determine the paint is hard enouph, now apply the decal to the caliper. 7) Once the decal is on, now very lightly apply a very thin coat of the high temp clear coat. Wait 5 minutes, and give it another very light coat. Now wait about 10-15 minutes and give it another light coat. Then wait another 10-15 minutes and now you can give it several medium coats of clear with about 10-15 minutes between coats. the reason for going with super light coats first is if you apply a medium or heavy coat to the decal right away, it will saturate the edges of the decal and get under the adhesive, which will raise the edges of the decal up. And that's not going to look good. By keeping the caots light and thin, they will dry really fast and seal the decal first. Then you can give it some good medium coats after that. YOu also don't want any rund and drips at this point. So again, just be patient, and give it a few even coats. Now do the rear calipers the same way. The finish results:
  8. smooth1

    Modifying The Is 300

    Hello everyone. I just bought a 2005 IS 300. So, I'm gonna be working on it to make it even better. Because,,, that's what I do. the car has 21,000 miles on it now. It's silver with the Black leather interior. I am going to be doing some appearance mods first, then go into performance mods, and along the way we'll see what pops up. I have already put new rims on the car. I went to 18x9's. I am very happy with that change so far. The handling is crisper and turn in response is much quicker! Next I have purchased black headlight housings and Halo rings for the headlights. they should be in later this week. I will be installing those and for now, I want to just black out the tail lights until I find something I like better. I will be posting picks as I go along so everyone can see before and afters and so on. I also am going to redo the brake system also. Now that I have new rims, you can really see the calipers and the discs, So i want to change to slotted or drilled, I haven't really made up my mind about that yet. Also, I'm looking into new calipers, or just repainting the stock ones I have. I'm adding steel braided brake lines, and new performance brake pads. I also want to add a cold air intake, maybe an underdrive pully, and who knows, maybe look at a supercharger down the line. So, it all begins here. If anyone has advice, maybe suggestions on mods that really work, let me know. I hope to learn and pass on the knowledge as I go. I will be posting those pics later this week. Saturday, the car goes in for service, ( I want to convert it over to full synthetic oils and trans fluid first. Then I'll start putting all the stuff on the car.
  9. I don't have a picture. But it's in the headlight assembly, underneath. You have to remove the headlight, turn it upside down and remove the 4 screws you see there. Then the whole bottom plate comes off and the ballast rests inside there. You might think it looks like a battery pack in a galvanized steel little box with wires coming out. That's the ballast.
  10. smooth1

    H&r Vs Tanabe

    Get Eibach. I would get Tenabe's if your going with coilovers, but if your just going to get lower springs, then get Eibachs.
  11. smooth1

    My 2012 Is250 Loaner Car: My Experience

    I do the same in that I have an 08 IS350, and the 11 Grand Cherokee. My life dictates the size of the Grand Cherokee right now, Jeep made it a pleasure to need it though. So the wife gets IS350 driving privelages for now and the VW sits there most of the time. LOL!!
  12. smooth1

    Luxury Car Of The Year

    Lexus/Toyota are in some "retooling" modes. The pendulum swings. I think we'll have to see as the new line up takes shape and what Lexus does with it. But, to give it to Jaguar? I'd have to see what all the parameters were to fit into this category of "Best Luxury Sedan" because slot of other cars come to mind. The Mercedes S class is way beyond these 3 cars. And I would also put the BMW 7, and the new 2012 Infinity M is ranked very high as well. And then there's this: http://evanhutchinson.hubpages.com/hub/Citroen-DS9 I'm in love....................
  13. Then it could be a fuel pump. You might want to check that. It's in the gas tank. Theres an access panel after you remove the rear seats. I'd check for good pressure there. If you can't that, then I would tkae it in and have a diagnostic done. They can hook into the ODB plug, run the car, and see what's going on to cause it to die. Might be worth the hundred bucks to save a bunch of time doing it this way.
  14. smooth1

    Scotts Lawncare

    They don't mow, edge or rake though right? Just fertilize and bugs?
  15. smooth1

    Scotts Lawncare

    I use a lawn care service. Over the years I found a nice family operated business that fertilizes, manages weeds and sprays for insects, mows the yard as it's needed, weed whacks, edges, blows, and maintains the sprinkler system. I pay them $75.00 a month in the summer and $50.00 in the winter. With Carl as my "lawn guy", and under his advise, we switched my front lawn to a new Zoisha? hybrid he loves. And I have to say, it's really nice grass. Stays green and has a nice soft carpet. He really knows what he's doing, and I let him do it.
  16. smooth1

    2013 Lexus Es Shows Up Undisguised In China

    It's funny, I almost think that some of these car manufacturers, and more so the Japanese and American car makers to be so worried about what each other are doing and trying to match each other or one up each other that they completely lose focus on the evolution of their design rather than these radical departures and the result is that they alienate many who have come to identify with the design. I just know they're going to screw up the IS when that redesign comes out. The ISF was already at the limit of bulges and flares it could have. And if they make it look like a small ES, which would in turn look like a small Hyundai/Kia anything, will be very dissappointing indeed. I'll reserve my final opinion on the ES when I see one in front of me. Pictures can "add 10 lbs." some times. But SW, when I shook my head my chin hit my desk and the top of my head hit the back of the chair in agreement when you said the profile looks like a Sonata. What are they thinking?
  17. Why can you tell it's electrical? Have you checked the MAF and IAT? along with the vacuum hoses?
  18. These vehicles have a "learning" mode that establishes some settings over time based on the drivers habits. You may need to "reset the ECU" so it will go back into the learning modes with you as the new driver. There is a seperate proceedure for clearing out the transmission memory as well. I agree with lenore in that you don't have to replace the fuel filter unless you have particulate contamination in your fuel tank like chunks of rust or dirt and so on. You may want to look before wasting time and money. If the vehicle specifies 93 octane, you might want to reconsider going to 89. That's more of a jump than lenore going to 91. Understand that the octane ratings are not "quality" ratings. They are a measure of resistance to ignition. 89 octane has less resistance to being ignited than 93 octane. Because of this, as the fuel is entering the cylinder, you will be more prone to pre-ignition, or spark knock than if you were to use 93. Which will mean less horsepower, (fuel is igniting before piston reaches top dead center), and rougher idles and lower mpg's. All that can add up to more money than if you were to just use the right octane. Can you get away with a lower octane? Probably. Will it damage your engine? Possibly. Given the used status of your purchase, the mileage and year, missing some maintenance, I would just stay with 93 for at least the first year of ownership. Get to know your new vehicle first. Then if you put in 89 and the change ok with you, then you at least know what's going on. But I'm puzzled at the fact that the fuel filter and maintenance history bother you, yet chincing out on the fuel is ok ?
  19. Don't disconnect the battery and clear the ECU yet. Get a scan done first and write down the codes it stored. Then find out what those codes relate to. You may determine there are some repairs to make first. Then reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for about 5 or 10 minutes if you want and see if the same codes come back. If they do, then you have an issue to resolve.
  20. smooth1

    Been A Long Couple Of Weeks...

    Sorry to hear about your loss. How are your parents taking it now that they are back? Everyone ok?
  21. smooth1

    Hello Everyone

    Welcome to the LOC.
  22. smooth1

    Hello From A French Lexus Driver

    Welcome to the LOC.
  23. I drove a Lincoln MKS, and just kept laughing as I kept replaying thier commercial in my head and repeating, This is the same price as a BMW, Audi, Lexus, Infinity? They're crazy AND they must think we are all stupid! I like the new GS because I think it has the size and wheelbase for the heavier sculpted air damn and grill. I think the new tail lights, along with the entire rear end is a huge improvement over the departing safe bland styled tail section. I do also like how the GS has the LS "feel" to the profile also. And the Lexus gauges are just really nice and have been for awhile now. It's only a matter of time before we get the full digital gauge package the LFA has. On the other hand though, I hate the new RX styling! And I see that design in other mfgrs. SUV's as well, like the new Mercedes ML has the same "feel" to it's styling as well. Although I think the MB ML is a little better looking than the RX is. Which is why I voiced my concern on the IS updates coming. If they make it more like the new LFA and the new Toyota FT 86 that is coming and the new Supra, I'm in.