smooth1

Fixed it for ya. Welcome to the LOC!

nope not into all the ricer look, wingless and scoopless for me. i dont have any current pix but this is what she use to look like. [ this is the wheels i have on it now, they are now powder coated matte black. i have a new front bumper and side skirts going on too.. Lookin nice!!

PM sent to the OP regarding forum rules and regulations. I just want to clear something up here for everyones benifit. It's ok as a CONTRIBUTING member to post a thread ( you still don't need the link.) that says something like "Hey guys I just saw this new "X" and I bought it and it worked great, what do you guys think?" It's another to just post a product no matter how cool it is with the intentions of growing sales for that product.

thanks for the imput.. eh, she's a smart gal so i wouldnt be able to pull it off, but then again i dont really want to lie to her either. if she needs more fun facotor i have a sti just sittin in the garage waiting to be driven hard.lol Who said anything about having to lie to her? There are some members here that will swear thier intake added 20 hp according to the butt dyno! LOL!!

Yeah, I read that thread before. I don't think there was a single positive reply to that mod. LOL!!

I used a thread that referred to alot of the "general" issues with Lextasy. But I could bring up my buying expereince with you and further demonstrate how frustrating it can be to deal with your company. What forums do you sponsor? And are you saying your a price competetive company? 9 weeks to get a shifter knob is a fast fashion? <_<

The direct fuel injection and complex ECU has made modding the IS for power almost not worth it. You can put on an exhuast system for a couple horsies, and add an intake, but really you won't feel much of a difference.(It will sound alot more powerful though.) I have a feeling if you did add both those and told her it added a bunch of hp, she would think it did. Other than that there isn't much else.

I've only seen 2 like in the thread you posted, but nothing else. And nothing about exchanging the the AC control panel. But I'm sure with enouph money anything is possible. I would think in order to put the nav system where the non nav ac controls are. I've looked at the back and how the system is put together, and to be honest, I think the only way is to have the center dash and console completely redone. If you look at the ac control panel, it's wider than the panel is below it, and narrarower than the dash above it.

Yes. The size isn't really the issue so long as your not changing the outside diameter of the tire. It's more about the offset and if you lower the suspension. Most aftermarket wheels companies do "general" measurements. In other words. XX offset will fit XX different cars without rubbing or caliper clearance issues. Unless your looking for "aggressive" wheel setups, you'll be fine.

I'm a huge Pittsburg Steeler fan! 30+ years! Go Steelers!!!!!!

Did you run out of gas?

Welcome to the LOC.

Welcomo to the LOC. Glad to have you.

LOL!!

Mike, that is always a possibility. There is a way to test the A/F ratio sensors. Unfortunately the rear sensor plug is difficult to get released because of where it is. I actually think it's worse to disconnect it than it is to remove it. It's up behind the engine and you pretty much have to do it from underneath. The problem is it takes 2 hands to hold the plug and release it and it's virtually impossible to get 2 hands up there. Now if you had the intake manifold off, that would definitely be the time to change the plugs, A/F sensor and a few other things that are BURIED back there. If/when my O2 sensor fails, I plan on cutting/splicing the wires instead of removing the seat to get to the connector. I would really advise against doing it this way. The wires and the sensor are matched to carry the correct ohms and impedence. Cutting and splicing can change the impedence of the wire. You may start throwing cels later just because of the splice. Good point. Does make me wonder about the two A/F sensors. Bank 1 and Bank 2 originally had different wiring harness lengths and, up until the last 6 months or so, there were two different replacement A/F sensors to match factory installed. Now, there is only one replacement A/F sensor with a common wiring harness length. Sort of suggests resistance of the wire itself is not important. I've actually run into this before with some customers that came in who had done some header and exhaust work and went to an 02 sim. Later they went back to stock and just spliced in the 02 sensors and kept throwing cels afterwards. I just replaced the 02's and the wire harnesses and everything was roses. So I'm sure there may be a window of acceptability for the 02, and there is even a good chance that the splice may fall right back into that, but that would just be a guessing game there.

Mike, that is always a possibility. There is a way to test the A/F ratio sensors. Unfortunately the rear sensor plug is difficult to get released because of where it is. I actually think it's worse to disconnect it than it is to remove it. It's up behind the engine and you pretty much have to do it from underneath. The problem is it takes 2 hands to hold the plug and release it and it's virtually impossible to get 2 hands up there. Now if you had the intake manifold off, that would definitely be the time to change the plugs, A/F sensor and a few other things that are BURIED back there. If/when my O2 sensor fails, I plan on cutting/splicing the wires instead of removing the seat to get to the connector. I would really advise against doing it this way. The wires and the sensor are matched to carry the correct ohms and impedence. Cutting and splicing can change the impedence of the wire. You may start throwing cels later just because of the splice.

Have you thought about the Audi A6 AWD? You can probably get an 00-03 in the same price range. And Saab is very polupar the further north you go!

I do have vacuum in the tank when I release the gas cap. It makes the hissing sound for at least 3-4 seconds. The history of the car goes like this. The prior owner had died when the car had 8K miles on it. It was left outside for 1,5 years with 5 gallons of fuel in it. When I purchased it and filled it up it would stall left and right. I got most of the fuel out and filled it up with some gasoline cleaning products 1-2 gallons. (octane booster, gas dry, gas preservative etc.) after that the car died only once. When started again it runs like a dream till now. 33K today. There was always problem with the fill up. In the summer it is less pain as the wussh sound comes out of the charcoal canister the pump will work till it fills up. When the temperature goes down to 20-10-0F it is a nightmare. max 0.5 gallon at a time before it clicks off. Then I have to wait and put 0.5 gallon more. so on so on. 15 minutes at the pump just kills me. THNX Roman I would suspect the vent line. The auto pump shutoff at most stations is controlled by a line which vents pressure in the tank near the fill hole. When the gasoline level in the tank reaches the vent line opening near the top of the fuel tank, it blocks it off, air stops travelling up the vent line, and the gasoline nozzle senses the pressure change and signals the pump to shut off. If your vent line is clogged, you may get a premature shut off at the gas station.

Welcome to the LOC Speeding613. Congrats on the new ride. I don't think you'll ever have to worry about being able to add to much hp from an intake. All intakes provide maybe 3-5 hp. (unless your intake contains a turbo or supercharger.) I would reccomend the JoeZ intake. alot of members have it and it gets great reviews for the dollar everywhere.