smooth1

Ok, this is straight from memory, It's better if I have the motor in front of me, but....the parts I would get together are a new water pump, belt tensioner, new drive belt, timing belt, thermostat,new radiator fluid, spark plugs, wd-40 and some carb and choke cleaner. Then I would start with taking the air box and intake piping off. Then remove the under panels and center pan underneath the car. Drain the coolant, disconnect the radiator hoses and brackets, all the electrical wiring etc., and the transmission fluid line from the radiator and then pull the radiator out. Then take the drive belt off and set it to the side, your gonna need it later. then take off all the timing belt housing covers off. Now here is where it gets kind of "idealistic" if you will. The way I look at this is at this point, I have all these parts off and out of the way, so I would also remove the throttlebody and clean it out real good. I would also pull ignitors and change the spark plugs out now too. Inspecting all the wires and hoses while I'm there. Then I would mark all the timing pulleys, and timing belt, and crank position. Next is removing the crank pulley. :) Yeah. the major nut buster! I have a 5 foot bar I use over a chain wrench. Since I have found this way, I haven't had to exceed I would say 90% muscle capacity since. LOL!!! And that drive belt you set aside earlier? I take that and wrap it around the pully, then put the chain wrench over it and lock it down, then torque off the pully. That way the chain doesn't chew up the pulley. Then, being careful not to turn any of the pulleys, take off the timing belt. Next I would now replace the water pump, then put the new tensioner in, ( I've also found keeping the pin in it until after you put the new timing belt on makes things a little easier when your lining up the teeth on the timing belt. Once it's back on, it's pretty much everything listed in reverse and your done.

down to 2.12 here

c1201 = Brake Boost Sensor Circuit Range/Performance or ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short To Ground or Engine Control System Malfunction (VCS lamp ON-RX3) or ECM/TCM malfunction (depends on which scanner they used)c1223 = Malfunction in ABS control system c1243 = Malfunction in deceleration sensor (constant output) c1336 = Zero point calibration of yaw rate sensor undone b1206 = EIC Switch-1 Assembly Circuit Open b1214 = Running Board Lamp Circuit Failure b1215 = Running Board Lamp Circuit Short to Battery b1261 = Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short To Ground b1262 = Servo Motor Defrost Circuit Failure b1271 = Servo Motor Potentiometer Defrost Circuit Short To Ground b1281 = Servo Motor Potentiometer Coolair Circuit Open u0123 = Lost Communication With Yaw Rate Sensor Module u0124 = Lost Communication With Lateral Acceleration Sensor Module u0126 = Lost Communication With Steering Angle Sensor Module p2118 = Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/Performance hope that helps. Your not going to have this solved on the forums. You need hands on trace and diagnostics work. Then parts and repair. It's going to be expensive, your just going to have to face it. You have 3 choices to make, 1) Sell it now and move on. 2) Get the money together and fix it. 3) return it or pursue a lawsuit. I would strongly reccommend selling it, or returning it and moving on. Your only going to have more problems as time goes by. Once a car has this much work done to it, it's never the same. Your allways going to be chasing problems and issues. This is only the beginning. Even after you fix the list of codes you have. In my opinion, this is probably the best advice your going to get. I would give full disclosure, and try to sell it for $12-15k. Let the next person decide for themselves if it's a good enouph deal or not. You'll lose around $5-8K, but you'll have 12K to buy something else.

No, I wouldn't say it's normal, but it does happen. It's just one of those things, you know? It's good that it does include replacing the timing belt. It sounds like your dad has a good mechanic. $700.00 for both is a fair price.

Just noticed that little km after the huge 76K part. Your right, that's only about 49K miles or so. But, if the water pump is bad and needs to be replaced, I think I would be on the fence about replacing the timing belt anyway while your there. 48k miles?? HHmmmm........ You would still be prolonging the next time it would need to be replaced. But I would understand those who decide to just replace the water pump also.

I was asking if you like Vlamir Putin or not. And what kind of car does he drive?

chincy???? larceny! <_<

By the way, Tovaresh, if you like car photos, especially concept cars, check out some of these: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=50720 Yeah, I've been following that thread. So, what car is the local favorite? Like here in America, the tuner crowd love the Mitsubishi Evo, and Subaru WRX-STI, Honda Civics, Mazda RX7's and Toyota Supras.

Can you take a pic and post it?

What I am talking about is when you replaced the coils, you put the wires back in there original sequence correct? You didn't take the wire from cylinder 1, and re route it to cylinder 2 or anything like that right? Your aware there is a firing order, and you have to route the wires from the dist. cap to the correct cylinder right? I don't know what you know and what you don't. I also don't have your motor in front of me to look at what you have done and if you have done it correctly or not. Your having a misfire issue. The first thing I would do is make sure you have spark at each spark plug. If you do, then I would check the timing. Make sure the belt didn't jump timing. If the timing is within spec, and you have spark then I would move on to the fuel injectors. Make sure they are working and inspect the seals. Then check the fuel pump. Then go back over all your sensors, knock sensor, and 02's, your sure the MAF is installed right? along with the IAT? All the vacuume hoses are on right and working? You said you replaced the TPS? Why did you replace the coils, TPS and and MAF and clean the throttle body in the first place?

I don't know, I think it's still a reach. If that car was hit hard enouph to have the differential cover replaced, you'd probably notice alot more wrong with the car than having new rear coil springs. If you really want to know, then open the trunk and remove the liner. Look for odd cuts and welds and balpein hammer marks somehwere. If there are none, then your fine. All cars are going to have maintanance costs. Lexus is probably a little bit more because of the name, but that's just part of it. You can also take it to a Toyota dealership and have work done there for less. And it sounds like your dad has an independant mechanic already. The water pump alone is going to cost $150-200 if you go with aftermarket, and around $250 if you go the dealer for OEM. Labor is booked at 6 hours. So, if that includes replacing the timing belt, its an ok price. If not, then it's on the too high side. But your car is at the mileage that the timing belt should be getting replaced soon, and most places recommend replacing the water pump while your there because it's so hard and expensive to get that done later by itself anyway.

Hey, sorry to hear about the big spoon stirring up life in your pot. LOL! But it's good to hear you have something line up. I lived in Chicago for awhile. It's not bad there. Are you going to be in Chicago Metro? or one of the suburbs of Chicago? I lived in Rosemont, and in downtown Chicago. And a 43% income increase is great!

1.29 for a small bag!!!!

Are you sure you put the coils back on the right way? You do know there is a firing order and each coil fires to a specific piston right? You didn't change any of those did you?

Georgia attacked the North Ossetia, and was killing people who lived there. At South Ossetia there were our armies, but it were only peacemakers, which protected the peace population. I not the politician, but I think that could be solved peacefully. Vladimir has recieved the country, which was successfully disorganised by Yeltsin and Gorbachev. Ok, I've been reading some and, I have some wuestions to ask, only if you want to answer. Why was Georgia attacking North Ossetia? And what was Ossetia doing about it before? So, what kind of car does he drive? B)

Sure! That would be great!

What year? How many miles? How much did you pay for it? How many miles are on the car now? And how much do you owe on it? Why would you have done 3 trans fluid changes? And the differential oil should be replaced on a schedule. As well as the battery every 3-5 years depending. And brake pads wear out all the time on all cars. Once in the time you have owned the car could be just regular scheduled maintanance. I wouldn't call that a problem. As for your trunk lid, and brake light, I wouldn't exactly just contribute those issues to an accident. But it is possible. It could also be that the person who owned the car before you had the factory spoiler option on the trunk. Which contains the third brake light. And may have had it removed. ( It's not very hard.) Which would also explain why the lid opens so quick, as the weight of the spoiler isn't there any more. And the lid could also be from just having the trunk adjusted or modified to open the way it does. I've owned 4 IS300's, and everyone of them the trunk opened quicker or slower than the other. The 05 was the best one, it just "popped" open and would open all the way almost perfectly, unless the wind caught it. Where did that quote come from? and does that include replacing the timing belt? Again, how many miles do you have the car right now? If your in the 80k-100k miles range, this also could just be scheduled maintanance. MAF ( mass air flow sensor) replacement is somewhat a issue I see come up. That and the 02 sensors can be annoying, but atleast they are relatively cheap, and easy to replace.

chocolate milk

Cool, make sure you post your set up with some pics in the Wheel set up sticky. B)

Hmm, I never really paid attention to that light. I allways just reset it as soon as I see it.

Are you throwing any cels? How much black smoke are we talking about? It sounds like the motor is in limp mode, it's a protection system programmed into the ECU that says something could be very wrong that can or may damage the motor. Have you had the car scanned? Do you have an ODBII scanner?

Here, check this one out: Man that's a beautiful billboard!

alright how bout this one:

Hey trev, in case nobody has ever said so, Thanks for some cool links to some of these videos. I do watch em, even if there isn't much to say afterwards.

Whiskey