bean_8044

So how much is all this rinning if you dont mind me askin??

Dont be fooled by the size, that controller gets HOT. Im still trying to hide most of the performance add-ons that i can(asthetics and theft). I dont care what anyone says though. Even if i have drilled/slotted rotors, 18s, giant single exhaust, and you can hear the turbos plain as day, i still want it to be as sleepy as it can be. Of course, here everyone knows that a Soarer with a single exhaust is going to be a runner so why bother. I almost tore off all of the trim when i tried to see how pliable it was so i may put it up where the visor is. Extending the wires shouldnt be that much of a problem for me since im good at soldering. If youre nervous about soldering the wiring harness then at least practice before or have a friend do it. You could take it to a shop, but then thats going to add on a hundred at least to the tuning fee. Once i get a few more things im going on the dyno for tuning

i know on my front one, it rubs when i turn the wheel hard to the right when im backing up. as soon as i get my other tire on there im sure it will do the same for the other side. you might try doing it with someone outside the car to see exactly where its coming from

Well....thats the thousand dollar question right now. I have no idea where i want to put it. I want to kep it out of sight so i was thinking on the visor, but then id have to take alot of trim apart to wire it up there aside from extending the wires. Maybe in the center vent holes, but since i would be putting the S-AFC and AVC-R there, that would cut out all of my A/C(practically). Maybe inbetween my Kenwood radio and the A/C controls, but then its plain as day. In short, i have no clue where im going to put mine. Right now it wired to the center box and i just pull it out when i show it to people or to stare at the moving lights.

dude, i dont even want to know how you came up with that !Removed! analogy.

Well, i got the SAFC I so i dont have the knock sensor stuff on there, but the ECU will !Removed! automatically if it gets knock so i wasnt too worried about it. If your grounds arent seperated properly or set up properly you might as well consider the SAFC toast along with the ECU. I dont have the exact quote from the manual, but i believe it said that "damage MAY HIGHLY result" blah blah blah. To reset the SAFC I all i had to do was go under etc menu and then select Init All and that reset the memory. I had a brand new one, but i did it just to be sure. There isnt a connector really either, just the cable that comes off the SAFC and connects to another cable that has just wires on the other end. The whole cable is about 5ft or so. It makes for some interesting and nerve racking times when you put it in and the first time you start it up, but the Toyota ECU will just freak out andd go limp if something goes wrong. About the only thing to go wrong (assuming your wiring is good) is the AFM wires losing contact and it wont send the proper signal to the ECU. That happened to me and i just bypassed it and the stock ECU recovered fine and later on i put the SAFC back in and it works to this day

Im pretty sure that the 1jz's didnt start till the 90s and the 1G-GTE came with twins all the time(except for the supercharged). The 7M which came in the supras had a single turbo on it and that was imported to the US whereas the 1j was hardly on US soil. Check out this link for some engine history...if you dont mind scrolling left to right all the time....

I just finished putting mine in on the 1jz yesterday. Dont use any of the connectors on there except for the male and female ones. I soldered everything on and its working out real good. As for the grounds, they have to be on the ground wire to the ECU and the brown ground wire has to be closer to the ECU than the black ground wire. They black has to be at least 1cm away from the brown wire, so make sure you dont splice in too far from the ECU. Ive never seen a setup where the power and ground splice into an existing one, but my stuff works so i dont ask qustions. Let me know if you need any help

in my humble opinion, most of the sequential-turbo setups(2jz, 13b) werent that fast as compared to the twin turbo since the boost comes on at around 2500-3000 rpm in the true twin setup. of course, the singles are almost always bigger than the twins so you can run tons more boost on em. i think my CT12a's will disintegrate at 14psi and loose efficiency around 12psi.

I dont know...the Aristo is cool and all, but damn it takes up my whole screen.

dont ditch the sc400, just add a TT system for the 4.0. Or a Weiand blower...either one

"Dodge Viper like horsepower in a top of the line Lexus luxury car for about the price of a Honda Civic..." Ok, im sorry, but i have to break out the hate-o-rade. If theres dodge viper and honda civic in the same sentence i have to wonder. I almost want to say thats a 1jz setup, but i cant tell. Either way, to my knowledge, it wont bolt to a GE head. I wish i could sell my car with extra used parts on it to bump up the price a few grand. The next best line was "and you would have a top of the line luxury car with Dodge Viper like horsepower making you capable of smoking just about anything on the streets! Because of the automatic transmission, it is recommended to limit the power output to about 300 rwhp".....uhh..its not like my TT soarer is slow, but its still a heavy !Removed! and there are plenty of cars that i cant take(those damn EVO IVs!!!). Blah...damn americans. Oh, wait, that includes me too.

Well, im sure the hybrids may cost alot at first, but it seems like you save money in the long run, especially with the tax credit. If i could squeeze an extra 50-75km from my tank then that stuff would pay for itself....well, maybe in a year or so.

Ive been checkin out some different peoples fuel settings for the S-AFC and alot of the soarers run way rich on high throttle. Alot of people have the fuel set at 10-18% below the stock ecu, but thats on the earlier turbo models...

Torque Converter - A turbine used to transmit power from a driving member to a driven member via hydraulic action, providing changes in drive ratio and torque. In automotive use, it links the drive plate at the rear of the engine to the automatic transmission. Check How Stuff Works for a writeup on how torque converters actually work.

yeah, definitly need a bit of maintainance on that beast. the O2 sensor isnt that expensive and you should be able to change it yourself providing that it hasnt bonded to the headers or wherever it is on the V8. $350 for the sensor and replacing isnt that bad from the dealer also. That scratching noise could be any number of expensive things. Maybe try and get it properly lubed up and see if it doesnt fix it.

Dont forget to check out the Australian Lexus Soarer Club. Theres a shop down there that sells the shift kits for 350 and upgraded torque convertors for about the same i think.

i have 235/40 on my 18x8 in front and they rub a bit when turning sharply. i think anything smaller and youre going to sacrifice more ride quality though.

screw that stuff. just get the new bugatti quad turbo w16. 7 speed sequential gearbox, AWD, somethin ungodly like 1001hp/torque. where else can you do 300kph in 16secs wrapped in leather and a sweet stereo?

My bad, i always do bracket. It was fun when i had my 89 mazda 323 going up against a 70s Nova. Thats just what im used to. Racing for time instead of speed that is. I think i would kill myself on a bike that did 7secs in a 1/4. Im not really into the sport bikes that much anyways. I like to cruise around on it, but thats about it. Now give me the Duece Coupe with a Weiland blower and thats a different story.

you should be able to switch the CD player in as long as you dont get the upgraded one that came with factory amps otherwise it may not drive the speakers right. no idea on the wood trim...im just painting my trim and re-doing the pleather

Thats really not a bad time all things considered. I mean, youre runnin the N/A 2jz, right? Your R/T is killin you though... Once you get used to taking off on the third yellow thatll come down to the .6's. As for second gear...well, you have a stock car so maybe with the exhaust upgrade youll push your torque up a bit.

I just picked up a S-AFC and im gettin the AVC-R in a bit but i was wondering if anyone already has one installed. Hopefully the RSM w/G sensor will be shortly behind so i can get rid of that damn 111mph speed limiter.

just so happens that i came across this while looking for a dash removal tutorial. Scroll down to the bottom and itll show the factory way to clear the fault

Dare i bring up the 1jz TT option? I mean, its a 2.5l so it gets good gas mileage till you get on the boost. Plus the 1j was faster than the 4.0 V8. Course they wont put an old !Removed! engine like that in there, but its still a good comparison on the older model.