bean_8044

I have 18x8 up front and those rub a little when im coming out of a parking space. I think youd get the same performance and a better ride if you went 16 or 17 and a good tire versus a 20 or 19 on lo-pros. Not saying that the lo-pros arent performance, but they dont offer a lot of give/cushion for conering which will strain the suspension more. --It also changes your unsprung weight unless you get the lightweight rims--

I think car audio brands are like clothes. Whichever one you think looks cool, go for. Naturally with head units there is a big difference between Pyramid and Alpine or aftermarket Nakamichi and Macintosh. I can honestly say that ive heard a full pyramid system, minus the head unit, beat out a full Orion system back when they were using the Big Red...wierdest thing in the world. Ive also had Rockwood 10s that were just as good if not better than anything and they only cost $50 a piece. Id go to a bunch of pro shops and see what they all have and what they recommend and price for ya

Why exactly are you replacing the sub in the first place? Is it more volume or better quality....? When i sold car audio i always recommended a head unit first cause a crappy signal going to an awesome speaker is still going to sound crappy. If youre after better quality then you might want to look at getting a Death Box or something thats a little more complicated to build, but will yield greater quality. I cant vouch for the factory stereo since i have a 91 barebones soarer TT. I had the 12" DB in another car and it sounded alot better than a sealed or ported box and was louder also.

I dont think there is any way to get around the shipping. I could pick them up and MPS them to someone in Cali, but MPS on a box that big would take at least a month or two if they even accept it. Ive only seen two Soarers that were fixed up on Okinawa and neither one had a visible carbon fiber.

I had that on my 91 but i changed my pads and rotors and now it stay pretty clean. might just be the eight year old brake setup getting old...good chance to upgrade

damn thats pimp. i cant wait to get out of the military and get a contract job so i can actually have some extra cash..then i CF everything!! Including the inside of the ashtray

I have to agree with the weekend car idea. I mean, as a daily driver, my soarer rides good on the 18s since there some tire to absorb the road, but its not as good as the stock lexus with 16s. Course, the stock 16s cant hold the road like my 18s. Its up to you and what you plan to do with it. Personally i like the larger rims(20s) for cruisin and 17 or 18 is the highest ill go for street. Ive seen the 26s and thats just insane

Actually, if we're getting technical on the whole NOS deal then its Nitrous Oxide. Or Dinitrogen Monoxide, nitrogen monoxide, or nitrous oxide USP

I saw some of the dash 3-pod dealies on yahoo japan with the carbon outsides..i might be able to harass a friend into gettin them since its almost impossible to get on Y! Japan unless youre japanese

Unless youre going to get something thats lightweight be prepared for some forty pound rims. Its unsprung weight also so that will affect your handling and since your going to put lo-pro tires on it say good bye to the floating ride. I have 18x8 front, and 18x10 out back and it rides ok, but not like a Toyota with 16s and plenty of tire to absorb the road.

I have a !Removed! light blue interior, but what size are the pod holes on there?? 2" or 2 5/8 or what

theres a sound performance 2jz intake on ebay for $500 right now

with a softer pad i think you would see some improvements, but i bought pads that were a bit hard so i didnt see any improvements. you can find drilled/slotted rotors for the same price as stock blank rotors, so why not upgrade? im glad i did although i will search for a local shop to buy from instead of in the US. but, IMHO, i think softer pads may work better with stock rotors. Of course, you cant go wrong with TRD pads...just depends on how you drive and your opinions i guess.

Thats a huge !Removed! turbo compared to the CT12's which are about the size of small grapefruits. The 1jz was the only one with the true twin-turbo while the 2jz is more of a bi-turbo like the 90s TT RX7s. I figured that i can get the IC, piping/headers, and single turbo for around $2k. Of course i would be switching from twin to single so its feasible for me since im already set up for turbo. But...what i am worried about is how much boost i can run with a T3/T4 or a T4 and where thats going to move boost. Right now it rolls on smooth around 2500rpm, but i want more boost but not at the sacrifice of moving the boost to 4k...any ideas??

Well, compared to the stock setup i definitly gained some, but that may be because my rotors were old. With the new pads and old rotors it was ok, but once i put the drilled/slotted on there it bit alot more and doesnt fade. you can use alot less pedal to get full braking also

From what i hear the softer pads are better for the slotted since theyll shave off the top part when it heats up. the drilled are better for dissipating the heat from a harder pad. Thats just a basic explanation as i understand it. someone correct me if im wrong...

im not a big advocate of shaving the rotors since it will cost around ?50-100? for the shave and $200 for new rotors. if you can hold off for a bit longer to save the cash id definitly get new rotors. i mean, you shave them but then youre still going to have to replace them eventually so why not do it now?

Dear god that turbo is f'in huge..i cant even imagine how much boost he's runnin..probably at least 20. Ill probably swith my two CT12As for a single T4 or the hybrid t3/t4 since the ct12's lose efficiency around 12-13 lbs.

OK, i get ya now...ur MAF is right by the filter right? you might be better off going with the BFI, but if you really want an adapter plate you might be able to find one on ebaymotors or something. thats where i found one for my mazda. probably get away with searching for toyota adapters also..never looked for it so i couldnt tell ya. turbos are easier in that sense

no, i got it. the early model sc300s have the same size rotor as the TT Soarer oddly enough. Unless they sent me the wrong rotor. Either way, i have the rotors on and i dont care where they came from. Its just been too much of a pain in the !Removed!

there was some link in one of the pinned messages that went to a N/A Supra performance place and they might have the cams for the 2jzge. the 2jzgte cams probably wouldnt work but thats my guess

wait a sec, do you have the 2jz, 4.0 or ??? on my 1jz the intake pipe has a 3" inside diameter, so i just got a 3" outside diameter pipe and stuck it into there and got a filter that mounts on 3"

Ok, so this is wierd...the 91 Soarer TT has the same rotor size as a 92 SC300. I thought they were a little off, but when i took the wheel off and got the rotor side by side it was a match. go figure.

So i finally get them from National Fleet Parts after waiting for two months and wouldnt you know i ordered the wrong size. On top of that they arent even slotted or drilled, just scored in about 1/8th of an inch. Instead of waiting four months to ship them back and get my refund or a new set im just going to try and sell em here. Does anyone know what other Toyota models share the SC300 brakes or where i can find out??

I just put a conical filter on my soarer and the only real piece of hardware that i used was a 3" 45degree mandrel bent piece of steel. It slides right into the stock intake pipe and now all i have to do is block off the filter and its done. CAI for about $50??