steve2006

My 1994 owner's manual states "SAE J1703 or FMVSS no. 116 DOT 3" I would imagine with time the fluid will have been improved and the information updated. DOT 4 I believe has superceded DOT 4 but not sure about DOT 5 which I think is synthetic, brake fluid types should not be mixed. Link below is the real stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-FACTORY-DOT-3-BRAKE-FLUID-12-OZ-BOTTLE-10-/250994721412?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a70738284#ht_500wt_1204

The TRAC models have 2 throttle position sensors so there will be only one extra plug to disconnect and inside the throttle body there are 2 butterfly throttle plates the outer one is the normal throttle and will be closed, if you open this one you will see the sub throttle for the TRAC which will be fully open. Dependant on how bad the build up is you may be able to clean it without removal from the car using carb cleaner a tooth brush and some lint free cloth but a more thorough job will need it to be removed. You can disconnect the concertina section of the intake at the MAF and then the other end onto the throttle body so you don't need to remove the MAF. Yours should look like this

Vapour lock is air trapped in the cooling system and normally occurs more in the top engine area. Have a look at the link below, numbers 18 onwards may help you understand how to avoid vapour locks when refilling the coolant. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/coolant.html The mirror and seat switches are not illuminated.

It's been 2 weeks now either still driving around in 1st gear, discovered 2nd and D postions or gave up!

Providing you have enough clearance under the car to allow the engine and transmission to tilt enough to allow removal it can be removed in one piece. This may help http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/588504-complete-1uzfe-gs400-engine-removal-timing-belt-starter-rebuild-reintall.html

If it's not part of the test no immediate worries but if there is a TRAC malfunction you should be able to pull the specific TRAC code by reading the flashes on the TRAC light, the most common cause is a depleted nitrogen accumulator. These can now be rebuilt and recharged in the UK but not sure if you can do the same in the US.

Difficult to say without hearing the noise but could be a loose exhaust heat shield rattling any where on the system. Have you lifted the hood to see if you can locate the noise more accurately or been under the car?

It means your coolant (water) level is low, look at the plastic tank on the driver's side of the engine bay near the battery, there are 2 lines on it, the coolant should be a least up to the bottom line when the engine is cold. If it is low top up with Toyota ready mixed antifreeze or a good quality long life one then keep an eye on it over the next few days, if it drops again look for leaks.

I would check all the plug connections both behind the head unit and in the trunk for the sat nav system to make sure they are all fully inserted into their sockets. Have you tried giving the side of the center console a tap when the fault happens to see if it all comes right indicating a loose connection.

Have a look at the link below and then click the headlight picture to enlarge it, you should then have an idea where the mountings are. http://www.headlight.me/lexus-headlights-lexus-ls-headlights-c-294_583/99-00-lexus-ls400-hid-lh-headlight-p-3984

As far as I know there ae no such features on the car, the temperature guage will show a high engine temperature and the oil pressure warning light will come on if the pressure falls below the specified level. If there are any sensor problems the engine management light will illuminate indicating a fault which can be diagnosed by reading the stored codes. The only sensor which does effect driving is the transmission fluid temperature sensor which prevents the transmission going into overdrive until the fluid is at a minimum temperature.

Not tried a search? http://us.lexusowner...showtopic=30723 Although for a 1998 the proceedure is the same as yours the MAF is located on top of the alloy casting joined to the air filter box. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35788

Get your wipers to the end of the stroke so they are vertical on the windscreen and stop them in that position by turning off the ignition ( may take a few attempts to get it right) Then lift the wiper off the screen slightly and gently move it left to right to see if there is any play in the arm indicating play in the mechanism. BTW is it a Lexus model or the Toyota Celsior you have?

As Billy says do the tranny mount 1st and if that sorts the problem happy days. A quick way to check for worn motor mounts is to start the engine lift the hood and get someone to rev the engine a few times. The engine should have very little sideways movement when being revved, if it lurches side to side excessively this would indicate the mounts are past their best.

Yes you can remove the pulley from the compressor without discharging the AC but bear in mind the pulley is also part of the magnetic clutch assembly so make sure you make a note of all the parts that come off with it,how they fit back together and don't lose any. Leave the serpentine belt on to loosen the bolt to prevent the pulley spinning then remove the belt before removing the bolt completely. Why do you want to remove the pulley?

You are going in from the wrong side. You need to lift the trunk lid and then remove the sound proofing/carpet from the underside of the trunk lid, it is all clipped on so either give the clips a tug or use a clip removal tool, the clips are pretty tough so tend not to break. As far as I can see there are no screws just clips but check just in case before pulling it off. Once you have removed this you will see a hole in the trunk area above the license plate lights, put your hand in there and feel around for the bulb holder, to remove you twist the holder slightly ( anticlockwise if I remember) and then pull it out ( they are the same as the front corner lights if you have ever changed those) Pull out the holder through the hole,there is enough wire on them and then pull out the bulb. Reverse the proceedure for refitting. I changed mine for LED bulbs for the bright white look you see on newer cars but if you do try them 1st before refitting as they only work fitted one way, so if you find it doesn't light up turn it 180 degrees and it will. This only applies to LEDs conventional bulbs will of course work either way around.

Sounds like you have a major transmission problem and it might be cheaper to get hold of a good secondhand auto box from a breakers rather than try and repair the one you have. How did you do the fluid change? was it the flush method or drain and refill method? Did you use the correct Toyota fluid? Finally did you check the fluid level using the correct proceedure?

Get a friend to sit in the drivers seat and hold the pedal steady for you?

You know you really want it Billy. That looks perfect both inside and out. Looks like the original AC LCD. Even the alloy on the throttle body and plenum chamber looks freshly cast, makes my 94 with 74,000 look bad :cries:

Recheck all fuses particularly 4 Radio fuse 7.5A, 9 ECU-IG fuse 15A, 18 Radio no.1 20A the one fuse common to all the faulty items is Fuse 20 DOME 10A. Also check the 3 circuit breakers in the internal fuse panel there is a little hole in the top of the casing where you can insert a probe and push in to reset them. I would recheck fuse 20 first before continuing. All the fuse positions should be marked on the fuse panel cover.

Mike have you considered the possibility of valve seat erosion from running on propane, perhaps a compression test would confirm?

Hi and welcome to the LOC. The cable is unlikely to be completely missing it's probably the inner cable that has broken.There is no easy way of releasing the hood it is a case of either trying to activate the latch thru the front grille or from under the car with a bar or screwdriver,that is assuming the latch hasn't seized which caused the cable to break in the 1st place. It does make me wonder how long it has been broken and therefore how long it's been since the levels were checked or the car serviced? Lexus engine are a bit sensitive to O2 sensors and OEM ones are the best to go for some aftermarket ones will not work correctly causing another error code or you will have to splice the wiring to fit them, get it done as soon as possible as a rich fuel mixture can damage the catalytic convertor adding more expense. If you look on ebay.com you will sometimes see original copies of the workshop manuals,not cheap but they are the real thing.A cheaper option is to buy a copy (quality varies so chose carefully) on CD ROM for a few $$$,all you have to do is either print the whole lot or just the sections you need. Even cheaper click on the link below and use the search facility. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25931 Also have a good read thru this lot http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=60901

Check the 80/100Amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, they sometime blow when jump starting, bit of a job to replace as the holder has to come out from underneath.

There are additional bleed nipples on both the ABS unit and (if fitted) the traction Control Unit but I would just do a 4 wheel bleed as described in the tutorial. Providing you keep bleeding until the fluid from the brake calipers is nice and fresh in color and don't forget to keep topping up the master cylinder as you go the majority of the brake fluid will be replaced that way. The same goes for the transmission fluid it is almost impossible to change all of the old fluid for new so the best is around a 90% replacement with new.

Hello Tom and welcome to the LOC. The security system should not prevent you from removing the key from the ignition lock,make sure the selector is in park as this will stop the key coming out.