steve2006

If the parking brake is applied the warning light will come on when you start the car and go off when you release the parking brake, this is perfectly normal.

Post October 1994 models are the same as 1995/1996 and most 1997 models. Pre October 1994 parts will not fit neither will 1998 on model parts. What parts are you needing?

Bad news, as Billy mentions the system was changed and it is normally the motor which fails costing a few hundred $$$. IIRC the Toyota Landcruiser uses the same motor which is cheaper than the Lexus version.

Normally the fault is due to the rubber drive belt breaking so the tape spools stop turning this in turn causes the tape to auto eject so it doesn't spill out of the cassette into the works. Either take a look yourself or find a decent car audio repair shop.

This may help http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

It look like a supressor capacitor, earth tag on one end and a single wire plug to the connector.

The lock actuator motors are known for failing but I wouldn't say they were sub standard, it took 16 years before one of mine finally failed the others are still going strong at 19 years old.

Never knew there was a code for the engine coolant not warming up in a specified amount of time. Goes without saying you've cleared the old code Billy.

I knew that one would never be enough Billy, building the fleet up again? :D

Hello and welcome to the LOC. This may help. Electronic Power Steering.pdf

Start with the easy options, make sure the battery is good and the terminals are tight, worst senario is a duff starter motor due to worn out contacts and plunger.

Will it shift into 2 or 1 straight away? There have been reports of sticky shift solenoids,when was the last time the fluid was changed?

This is a known problem with the engine but they never seem to get any worse with time. The valve clearance is done with shims and although you can replace these with different thicknesses to acheive the adjustment it is both a labor intensive job with expensive parts. The noise probably sounds worse as the engine oil will have drained from the top of the engine having been stood for 5-7 days so until full lubrication is regained it will sound noisy. If it disappears in the time you say I wouldn't be unduly worried. I was once advised that on higher mileage engines a 10W-40 oil could be used which with a slightly thicker viscosity may help.

The AC compressor is located on the driver's side and the belt that drives that also drives the PS pump and the alternator. Check to see if the belt is still on.

Either check out local breakers yards or search on ebay. There are plenty of sellers on there selling parts from 1990-1994 models so message the ones local to you and ask if they have a door. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=1994+lexus+ls400&_dcat=6000&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4

Is this any help? http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=45917

The bad capacitors only really affected the 92-94 models and not the later ones. Semder units are reliable and I've not seen or heard any failure reports. Again the sticky needle was normally earlier models but with the dash thump being effective this is the most likely cause. As you have now got it working again I would wait and see if it reoccurs before pulling the cluster to pieces.

You haven't mentioned it and if you have checked it I apologize but is the remote locking slideswitch in the on position?

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but this is the LS forum.

TRAC pump makes this noise when the nitrogen accumulator is low on pressure.

WTF! Get a Life!

Hello and welcome to the LOC. My JDM import 1994 LS400 has exactly the same problem the dash has curled up on both sides around where the windshield demister slots are located, I posted up on the UK LOC and got no response so it looks like a rare problem. I did wonder if it was heat related as mine spent the first 12 years of its life in Japan. I can see no easy way of sorting the problem apart from replacing it as you mention. Many years ago I owned a British built Rover 800 car and these also had what became known as "Curly dashboard syndrome" but with some impact adhesive and some clamps it could be fixed without removing the dash.

It sounds like you have diagnosed the problem yourself, the wiring forms part of the loom and as far as I am aware individual parts of the loom are not available, your best bet would be to get the plug and wiring from a breaker, if they'll let you cut it out, then splice it into your existing loom.

There have been some strange faults regarding reverse on the earlier LS models but not later versions, so does it drive forward OK? When you engage reverse does the engine simply stall?

What's worse than a Spammer, a really bad out of date Spammer! :lol: