steve2006

Hi and welcome to the LOC. First thing to do is pull the diagnostic codes and with the 91 LS all you need is a piece of wire and the ability to read some simple instuctions shown in the link below. Once you have the code(s) for the tranmission come back with them and we can go from there. Shift problems can be down to sticky solenoids was the car stood for some time before you purchased it? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

You "washed" your engine! What came over you? Why did it need washing? So you now have water in all the engine covers over the plug wires,all over the distributors,all over the coils in fact everyting electrical. If the cat is g;owing red you have unburnt gas going into it. Start with drying out the engine, get some compressed air in there and try to remove as much water as possible, then get a hair dryer in there and continue drying with a little luck it may be enough to get the engine running correctly again.

I personally would not feel comfortable with a rear wheel drive car with over 250 BHP fitted with adaptors holding the wheels on. Also I cannot see there being many sets of 460 wheels around for sale. Plenty of after market choice and there are other mainly Japanese manufacturers using the same stud pattern.

I have a black one from a 1997 model if that's any help except it would be the driver's side being a UK model, the only problems are the shipping cost and the fact it has the SRS fitted so may be a restricted shipping item.

"A/C Blower High Relay Behind right side of dash, by blower motor." according to the manual, Sorry not sure on motor removal.

Also check your outside temperature sensor I believe it is mounted somewhere behind the front headlight on the passenger side, they are a bit exposed to the elements and have been known on earlier models to even fall off the mounting or become clogged with debris, if this gives a false reading it will affect the AC temperature, moving will increase the airflow on it so may explain why it is just playing up when stationary

Have you pulled the fault codes? What has led you to think the ECU is faulty? Did you measure the fuel pressure before replacing the pump? Random guesswork is the most expensive way to repair a car. Start with the most obvious causes, clean the AFM and TB then go from there.

Although the link below is for tinting the rear clusters it also shows how to remove them for bulb replacement. http://www.lexls.com...taillights.html Seized caliper pins are a common problem with the brakes, sometimes removal and a regrease will sort the problem. Picture 7 shows the pins you need to look at in the link below http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

If it aint leaking it's going somewhere, have you checked the valve on the pump which connects to the inlet manifold? Common problem is it fails and PS fluid gets sucked into the engine and burnt, normal telltale signs are white smoke from the exhaust particularly on a cold start. The other problem is a failed O ring on the reservoir that then leaks fluid onto the alternator below, difficult to see without some stripping down, left too long and it takes out the alternator.

They should if you have standard suspension, I have 17 x 8JJ rims on mine with 245/45/17 tires and there is plenty of clearance on the suspension.

Remove the fuel pipe from the fuel rail,it's a banjo union. Place the fuel pipe into a suitable container. Open the engine bay diagnostic port and connect two wires to the +B terminal and the FP terminals (use single core wire just push into the terminals and make them 3 feet long each) Hold the 2 wires together away from the car to avoid sparks near the container. The fuel pump will then run and pump the bad gas into the container, keep an eye on the container so it doesn't overflow and empty as required. Keep doing this until the tank is emptied.

You must be thinking of taking a vacation to the UK Billy, we're 6 hours in front so a more reasonable 9.15 in the morning.

Search and you shall find. :D http://www.lextreme.com/bushing.html

It's usually the white colored wire. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/bulbout.html

I don't think so as all the AS front and rear is linked to the same computer and pump. Go for a complete coilover conversion.

Now you're getting there, strange how it was missed before though.

Oh no not that easy to get to 80 amp fuse problem caused by those sparks!

If you had the system recharged 3 times, lost the lot within 24 hours and the specialist can't find the leak I would look for another specialist before you cause a major global warming incident.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/bulbout.html

I would recheck all what you have done before going any further, apparently it is possible to fit the rotors 180 degrees out so check these 1st. Have you also checked for spark at both coil leads, pull them out of the distributor caps hold it a few millimeters from the block with insulated grips and get some one to crank the engine, if you get a spark look at those rotors again.

The whole lot is over $500.00! so I would either look around for a breaker for the parts or try and fix your own. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2000_LEXUS_LS400_UCF20L-AEAGKA_5806.html

Have you moved the front seats recently Billy? I ask because there have been cases where seats are left in the same position for years and then suddenly are moved for say another driver and the plugs and sockets below the seat can become intermittent after movement. Another cause is poor electrical contacts in the steering wheel air bag circuit. You could also read the SRS fault codes to see if anything flags up.

The early Toyota Supra uses the same MAF.

It is fuse number 5 middle row 2nd from the left rated at 15A, there should be a location diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover. Fuse box is located above driver's side kick panel.

That's funny we had the same spam on the LOC UK, nothing better to do with your life then?