jzz30

i would take the timing belt cover off and look at the timing belt and see if there are cracks.

ive been here for like 4 years!!!my brother has an sc, and my dad has an LS i fix them haha!

your engine would be a non-interference engine. but i believe the later models with VVT-i are interference engines.

judging from the year the car has high mileage? if so maybe the mounts are worn. if you can duplicate the symptoms in your garage, try sliding a jack underneath your engine and trans mating area and jack it up an inch to simulate an un-smashed engine and trans mount and see if the noise goes away.

alister?

the only thing that is a pain is having to take off part of the intake manifold that runs over the valve cover. you should go ahead and get a new gasket for that if you do attempt this.

the trans mount is suuuuper easy. the motor mounts are a little tricky

$2000 is rediculous. tell them to take the arms and shove it!! the arms may cost $1000 but instalation should be more like $300. if you do get the bushings the labor will be a bit more because pressing bushings are kind of a pain. expect 1.5x to twice that.

well if the car has been maintained regularly you probably wont have any issues. if the car leaks oil here and there i would fix those. be on the lookout for hoses that have aged and hardened which can cause vaccum leaks. it also might be a good idea to change the motor and trans mounts if it hasnt been done in the last 40k miles? it will make the car much smoother. as far as suspension goes, one thing to think about is that rubber hardens as it ages. if you have the means(the money) to do so change whatever bushings you can. this will also help in ride comfort. and dont forget to change your trans oil regularly. and you should think about changing the diff oil as this is an often overlooked fluid to be changed. hope this helps as a start!

a supra, 300zx, mustang i guess... all of them heavy a$$ cars with power potential.

yea...this is kinda stupid so topic closed. who gets suckered in an ebay chip anyway...

if your not hearing the solenoid clicking then its possible that the ignition is worn and may need to be replaced.

hmmm... my brother has a 95 LS that had similar problems where it would die. he got a refurbished ecu and it fixed the problem.

that may be the casue. you should take it in to a checker or something to get the code pulled.

i think a crank position sensor problem would throw a code.

if you think about it, the 4 point thing wouldnt work. doesnt electricity take the easiest path to discharge? if so then it would only go through 1 of the 4 points. what makes the plug fire 4 sparks? it probably doesnt. you just see the commercial with the 4 big sparks!

i believe the 300 only came with the 4 speed.

welcome! we are always glad to help if we can!

well how about making sure they have both pumps and take off the one you have then go get the new one at the parts store or take it with you to make sure.

why dont you buy both then return the wrong one?

i guess...i havent really looked at prices of sc's lately. one of our costomers got some hre's...8 grand!!! 10 inch front and 13 in the rear!!!315 tire front and 345 for the back the thing looks sick!! it soooo wide oh the car is a G35 with a top secret wide body kit!!! and the cool thing is that the car is actually raced!

anytime buddy

you may need to go to a hydraulics shop to buy an addaptor if you dont want to just buy another set. take the stock hose and the goodridge hose and explain what fitting you need.

dont hre's go for about 5g's?

:chairshot: oops! i thought i was the first i'll be sending the beer :P now back to the subject. i wouldnt plug in a new one yet. you should figure out whats burning them up!