jzz30

your steering rack bushings probably have disintegrated. unfortunately they dont seem to sell replacements. and you need to buy a new rack. i suggest trying to search for them becasue the rack is an expensive item to replace. the dealer doesnt seem to offer them but you should search around. anyway you can diagnose this by taking your under pannel off and taking a pry bar to your rack on the driver's side. if it moves around then thats the cause.

air bubbles will have an effect on temp readings as air pockets will make the coolant not flow well and your dip in reading may be an uncirculated part of the coolant which was cooler than the rest circulating and giving you that reading.

i dont think there is stock tint. you can ask your installer as he should know.

HKS sells a FCD (Fuel Cut Defenser) which i think is a little thing that gets rid of the the speed limiter. it might have been something else but i think thats the one that does it!

sometimes the bearing just goes out...

SC=Sports Coupe them japanese people probably got mixed up in the volume conversion factor when calculating the interior space much like how that space robot that went to mars just crashed in to the ground rather than floating to it :P

it should work fine like that;)

that sounds good if its both sides because it cost me 50 a piece to get the bearings pressed out and in. so thats half already.

usually you can go quite a distance before you actually run out of gas to the point your engine dies. you might have anywhere from 1-3 gallons left. and maybe more. according to a quick google search the sc has a 19.8 gallon fuel capacity on an 05 model. im assuming its almost the same if not the same. how many gallons did you fill up when you did after driving past the "0 mi". although you may have more fuel i think this is done to keep the fuel pump cool as less fuel means the fuel pump can heat up faster and we all know heat is bad! :P

honestly i've never looked! but my s2000 does :P

if the noise is constant most likely its the pilot bearing. if it goes away after pressing on the clutch slightly then its most likley the throw out bearing.

nice car! love that color!

the axle nut should not affect the wheel being able to move around since the bearing is a press fit. although under continuous load the axle nut being too loose could and will play a role but these nuts are torqued at over 200 ft-lbs so i doubt they came loose and then messed up the bearing. when my bearing went out the nut was tight and like i said my breaker bar died trying to take the nut off. most likely the nut became loose as a result of the bearing. either way you will need to buy a new inner hub.

when you lift the car up are you able to move the wheel side by side with your hands? if so the bearing is toast!

maybe someone makes a bulb that size with a resistor built in already. try ebay! i have bought a few led's for my car and am very happy, but idk if they have the really small stuff...

there must be an open somewhere in the new tails. try to find that

yea it should be fairly straight forward.

my hose on my LS was leaking i just changed it and yes it does cost close to 400 bucks!

if you have confidence in taking ball joints off then go for it but if you dont then i would leave it to a pro. i did mine but it was a big pain to get the hubs off!! not to mention my breaker bar broke after trying to take off the axle nut!

good job!

i believe you have to buy the whole assy. although if you feel like it im sure you can punch out the bearing and press a new one in after finding the right size... but i think it would be much easier to just buy the whole assy. :P

when you put in dextron fluid the trans kinda shifts funny. i found this out when my tranny was leaking and thats all i had around till i did a thorough flush after buying a case of type V

my dad's LS was doing this with his tail lights where during night driving, the rear lights would be on as normal and as soon as he hit the brakes a few lights would go dark. we traced this back to several bad grounds on the socket. what i did was pull the wire out that was just pressed against the bulb housing and soldered it directly to the housing this fixed everything. i was lazy and only did only the ones that showed no continuity between the ground wire from the connector to the bulb housing, and the symptoms came back so i had to pull things appart and do the rest. anyway long story short. you may have a broken ground wire or just plain bad continuity like what i described.

actually the pump isnt the thing that needs the bleeding. the rack is the one with all the air in it. think of it as a hydraulic piston. if you move the piston back and fourth the air will be pushed out of the return line and back in to the resovoir. of course i started the engine periodicly to see if the pump still made noise. trust me i just did this about 2 weeks ago ;)

if you lift up the front wheels you dont need to turn the engine on. just turn from left to right over and over until the person by the resovoir doesnt see any more bubbles.