jzz30
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Everything posted by jzz30
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they sell refurbished ones or you can use the more reliable es300 one.
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the fuel pump either works or it doesnt but there is a fuel pump computer that might be giving you problems. there is a connector where you can jump and run the pump constant. maybe someone can chime it because i dont know which pins to jump because i dont have my manual in the country im in now...
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95. nice! welcome to the club!
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no halogen bulb can replicate hid's. there are hid kits for like $300 that you may want to consider.
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it will be fine but the tire will also be a tad taller on the sidewall
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if you do go through the bottom end you would need to take the crank out. these kinds of "in depth" repairs are easier if you just pull the motor. why do you want to take the rods out anyway?
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you could always call XS engineering to make you a kit. but there should be a few out there. maybe toyomoto?
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Rust On Rear Brake Drums And Tranny Question
jzz30 replied to decemberist ring's topic in 92 - 00 Lexus SC300 / SC400
tranny wont fit. also could you elaborate on your brakes? like the above post the car has disks in the rear. are you talking about your calipers? -
problem is that the OP has a 300...
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probably the engine and tranny mounts.
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figure 10g for the turbo upgrade kit on a GTE engine, management, misc... add another 10g's and you probably got ~700hp. supra engines are easy to make power on. just throw monster boost with a large frame turbo and your there. just dont expect it to be a responsive auto cross car or anything. by the time the turbo spools up your done with the course
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for 700 i think you may need to run race gas. but if cost is not an issue then you will need internals, such as rods and pistons. at that level the stock intake manifold may need to be changed out to a plenum style more or less like the GTE. in otherwords its going to be more cost effective to swap the GTE in and get a good turbo setup like a hks T51R kai. stock GTE blocks are known to hold upwards of 900 hp
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dont use wd-40. its a little messy. you can use carb clean but propane would be best. the engine will run funny if it sucks in the propane or carb clean. or you can simply feel around and see where its hissing from and repair it accordingly.
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most likely an O2 sensor issue but you can jump the check connector and get codes.
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either go to a starter/alternator shop and have them rebuild your current starter for $100~150 or get the denso rebuild.n depending on how much down time you can have
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do you have any aftermarket alarms or anything?
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use some wd-40 or liquid wrench or something, let it sit for a few minuites and then get some half nut wrenches (the kind for brake lines) and take it off. i didnt have any problem getting them off.
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i think you should get a second opinion. you should try go to checker auto parts or something and get a scan of what the engine code is. then report back to us what it is.
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oem shocks are cheap! its not a misprint!
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maybe there is a leak in the metal pipe from the exhaust?
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not to burst your bubble but this post was made in 2003 and he's only made 3 posts total which probably means he isnt on the boards anymore...
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lower arm difinitely looks bent, your sway bar link is bent, and the trailing arm mounting on the body side looks kinda broken also but that might be the pic. i say if you can find a whole rear assembly with all the arms attatched from a junkyard or something change it all out.
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i say oem. unless your looking for hotter pads you cant beat how smooth, quiet, and consistant stopping power the oem's have.
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something similar happens in my LS. if you leave the door unlocked for a period of time and open the door, the alarm goes off. this is very random and doesnt always happen.
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there are so many hoses on this p/s system my brother's leaks everywhere! i rebuilt his pump to save his alternator so thats ok but the hoses that have hardened around the metal pipes leak and he fills up probably once or twice a month. but yea post pics of where you think the leaks are!
