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jzz30

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Everything posted by jzz30

  1. i believe the seal plate allows coolant flow from one side of the head to the other.
  2. oh i thought the dyno read 700 something but it was only 200 something good luck with the turbos!
  3. a bat or sledge hammer does a good break job! i believe ebay sells replacement needles for your cluster but do a search. there was someone that fixed these. maybe a fuse blew on the mirrors but unlikely. test the switch also.
  4. YOU NEED AN ALLIGNMENT AND STOP YELLING!!!
  5. there will be no "budget" turbo kit or twin turbo for the 400. your looking to spend my guess would be $10k - $15k on a good set up since most everything will be custiom.
  6. if the aftermarket wires are not working for you you should try oem.
  7. you could try flushing the fluid first.
  8. it could be coincedence but do you have any pics of the problem? i dont see how changing timing belt in the front of the engine causes a coolant leak at the rear of the engine...
  9. sometimes the valve for the heater leaks.
  10. good luck with the site! there are a few write ups on sc stuff in the workshop tutorial page you can use or link to or something.
  11. either the bearings were just not changed because its so hard to just take a quick look to see if it was changed or they just used cheap replacement parts. but most likely they didnt change the bearings the first time.
  12. ^but he lives in St. Louis Missouri...
  13. i've done it a few times. if its just a timing belt and tentioner swap i got it down to mayve 5~6 hours. about 7~8 if there is a water pump involved.
  14. theoreticaly there should be no damage as this is a non-interference engine meaning the valves can no touch the piston under normal valve lift. at any crank/piston position.
  15. any of the damage would come from the belt getting bunched up in the timing belt cover. very minor if any.
  16. engine bolts to the engine mounts, engine mounts mount to the sub frame, steering rack bolts to the sub frame, steering column connects to steering rack, steering wheel to column, and hands feel vibration on steering wheel. possible vibration source: engine vibrational damper: engine mount you can figure out the rest :P
  17. try do a search on fuel pump computer or how to bypass the fuel pump computer and see if the fuel pump turns on or not.
  18. sounds more like a dying starter. the solenoid contacts are probably fusing together from excess resistance. you need to get a rebuild or buy a new starter. i had this happen once on my previa van. the starter kept going even when the key was out of the ignition. i had to pull the battery.
  19. is that 1000 rpm's off the throttle or on? why dont you try a full throttle shift from a stop. it should go all the way or very close to redline.
  20. didnt i already tell you its the coil in the other forum?
  21. it sounds like the engine and trans mounts are bad.
  22. highly unlikely but maybe the relay? is there any powersteering fluid dripping on your alternator? that would kill it right away nomatter how new the alt. is.
  23. the best way if you dont have a press is just pull the hubs off and take it to napa or something where they do press work.
  24. if i remeber correctly, when i went to the dealership and bought shocks. it was only like $75 each if that. maybe you should call a different dealership or find an online dealership.
  25. buy some universal joint sockets in i think 14mm and you may need a 12mm it makes life much easier. or you can get away with just the univesal joint adaptor but i think its a little harder.
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