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the wheels look like !Removed! im not black enough as my black roommate would say to have those wheels ...lol they felt fine and the fit was good but the rims i had look bad cool! thanks for the info. I really appreciate it! after I restore the ride height i'm gonna save up for 20's and i'll make sure they look good.

sorry man, i already put it in. I do have the old one which works, just the display screen is broke but the unit is still functional.

why did you hate them? was it the feel of the ride or just the look? I'm still trying to figure out what size wheels to get after I put back in the stock suspension.

yup. once you pull off the bottom part of the seat, you should be able to access the 2 bolts that hold the back part of the seat to the body.

lol. I forgot pick n pull is only out west. yeah, its a wrecking yard where you pay $2 to get in, then you pull your own parts. The trick is they dont tell you what cars are there, so you lose $2 if you cant find what you need.

what size are you going for? 19's or 20's? The rim shop told me a 20 x 8.5 with +30 offset would tuck but wouldn't gaurantee they wouldn't rub.

I went to Pick n pull this last weekend and scored big time. There was 2 sc400's, one of em was pretty much fully intact. I got all 4 coil springs for $100, the climate control for $20, the radio/ac/shifter bezel trim for $7, and a bunch of small parts that fit in my pockets for free! Too bad the door panels were the wrong color.

I have a 92 sc300 which was lowered when I bought it, and it rubbed right through the wheel well and through the wiring harness that runs above the driver side wheel well. I repaired the wiring and the wheel well and put coil spacers to solve the rubbing. I recently bought the stock sc400 coil springs from the wrecking yard and plan to put them in this weekend. My question is will 20's fit with the stock height suspension without rubbing? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

Lexus Code Retrieval Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes The check engine warning light will come on when the ignition switch is turned On and the engine is not running. When the engine is started, the check engine warning light should go off. If light remains on, the self-diagnosis system has detected a fault in the system. Battery voltage must be 11 volts or more. Throttle valve must be fully closed. Transmission must be in Neutral position. All accessories must be turned Off. On pre-OBD II models, turn ignition to On, then use a jumper wire to connect terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector, located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. Codes are indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light. Reading Trouble Codes If the ECU has detected a system malfunction, the check engine light will blink every .5 second. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of a two digit diagnostic trouble code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second number of blinks will equal the second digit of same diagnostic trouble code. If there are two or more DTC's, there will be a 2.5 second pause between each. After all DTC's have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and all DTC's will be repeated as long as the terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector are connected. In the event of two or more DTC's, indication will begin from smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger. After all DTC have been recorded, remove jumper wire. Clearing Trouble Codes After service, the diagnostic trouble code or DTC's retained in the ECU memory must be cleared by remove the EFI fuse for approximately 10 seconds or more, depending on ambient temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the fuse must be left out) with the ignition switch off. DTC clearing can also be done by removing the battery ground cable, other memory systems (clock) will also be cleared. If the diagnostic trouble code is not cleared, it will be retained by the ECU and appear along with a new DTC in future trouble codes. If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery ground cable, confirm no DTC's are stored. After clearing codes, road test the vehicle to check that a normal operation. If the same diagnostic trouble code appears, the trouble has not been corrected. OBD1 codes: 12 RPM Signal 13 RPM Signal 14 Ignition Signal 15 Ignition Signal 16 Electronically Controlled Transmission Control Signal 17 CMP No. 1 18 CMP No. 2 21 Main O2S & Heater Signal 22 ECT Sensor Signal 24 IAT Sensor Signal 25 Air–Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction 26 Air–Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction 27 Sub O2S Signal 28 Main O2S 29 Sub O2S 31 & 32 Air Flow Meter Signal 35 HAC/Barometric Pressure Sensor Signal 41 TP Sensor Signal 42 VSS Signal 43 Starter Signal 47 Sub TP Sensor 48 Secondary Injection System Malfunction 51 Switch Condition Signal 52 KS Signal 53 Knock Control Signal 55 KS Signal 70 EGR System Malfunction 71 EGR System Malfunction 78 Fuel Pump Control Hope this helps!

for all 95 and earlier OBD1 models, there is a diagnostic connector inside the car, driver side, under the dash. The pins to jump would be labeled E1 and TE1.... jump these pins together with a paperclip or wire, then turn on ignition, and count flashes of the check engine light. long flash then quick flash. example: 2 long flashes, 4 quick flashes = 24 Here's the breakdown: Lexus Code Retrieval Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes The check engine warning light will come on when the ignition switch is turned On and the engine is not running. When the engine is started, the check engine warning light should go off. If light remains on, the self-diagnosis system has detected a fault in the system. Battery voltage must be 11 volts or more. Throttle valve must be fully closed. Transmission must be in Neutral position. All accessories must be turned Off. On pre-OBD II models, turn ignition to On, then use a jumper wire to connect terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector, located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. Codes are indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light. Reading Trouble Codes If the ECU has detected a system malfunction, the check engine light will blink every .5 second. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of a two digit diagnostic trouble code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second number of blinks will equal the second digit of same diagnostic trouble code. If there are two or more DTC's, there will be a 2.5 second pause between each. After all DTC's have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and all DTC's will be repeated as long as the terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector are connected. In the event of two or more DTC's, indication will begin from smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger. After all DTC have been recorded, remove jumper wire. Clearing Trouble Codes After service, the diagnostic trouble code or DTC's retained in the ECU memory must be cleared by remove the EFI fuse for approximately 10 seconds or more, depending on ambient temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the fuse must be left out) with the ignition switch off. DTC clearing can also be done by removing the battery ground cable, other memory systems (clock) will also be cleared. If the diagnostic trouble code is not cleared, it will be retained by the ECU and appear along with a new DTC in future trouble codes. If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery ground cable, confirm no DTC's are stored. After clearing codes, road test the vehicle to check that a normal operation. If the same diagnostic trouble code appears, the trouble has not been corrected. OBD1 codes: 12 RPM Signal 13 RPM Signal 14 Ignition Signal 15 Ignition Signal 16 Electronically Controlled Transmission Control Signal 17 CMP No. 1 18 CMP No. 2 21 Main O2S & Heater Signal 22 ECT Sensor Signal 24 IAT Sensor Signal 25 Air–Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction 26 Air–Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction 27 Sub O2S Signal 28 Main O2S 29 Sub O2S 31 & 32 Air Flow Meter Signal 35 HAC/Barometric Pressure Sensor Signal 41 TP Sensor Signal 42 VSS Signal 43 Starter Signal 47 Sub TP Sensor 48 Secondary Injection System Malfunction 51 Switch Condition Signal 52 KS Signal 53 Knock Control Signal 55 KS Signal 70 EGR System Malfunction 71 EGR System Malfunction 78 Fuel Pump Control Hope this helps!

window regulator is integrated with the motor... it comes together as one piece. its pretty simple to replace. carefully remove the door panel, then peel away the plastic liner covering the door. If you have the new motor/regulator assembly in hand, it should be fairly simple to visualize where things bolt up...

check the brake light switch... its mounted somewhere on the brake pedal.

NOx is caused by high exhaust temperatures... the EGR system is what is used to control it. I would think your EGR valve is clogged ir not operating correctly.

if you still have the stock system in your sc300, then yes, it has an amp. actually there is two amps. one for the front and rear speakers, and a second for the 8" subwoofer. when I bought my sc300 the stock system was already missing... looks like the previous owner installed a lcd screen where the stock radio was, and by the looks of the broken console, it was also stolen. I custom made my own bracket and harness to fit an aftermarket sony cd mp3 player and 2 gauges underneath (volt gauge and air/fuel gauge to take up the empty space) along with 2 alpine 12" type-s subs and a 800watt soundstream amp and lined my trunk with dynamat. Also have eclipse front and rear speakers in the stock locations powered by another soundstream amp. Sounds much better than stock! thats why im going deaf says the doctor, lol.

I keep getting this error code 71. I've already removed the EGR, cleaned it out, vacum tested it, everything looks good. I replaced it, cleared the code, but the code keeps coming back. I've double checked the vaccum lines, everything seems fine. Car runs perfectly, idles perfect, accelerates great, no overheating... cant figure this one out. Anyone have experience with this problem? :cries: