LScott400

Yep, the sending unit is on the trunk side of the tank. EG345mfifueltank.pdf

A single experience: Our '94 had fluid like you describe. Did the flush and filter change with Toyota fluid. Great for a month and then it started having problems going into gear when cold. But then it also had nearly 300,000 miles on it. I think I have seen posts suggesting a more gradual fluid change. Drain the pan and add new fluid when you do oil changes. If I could rewind I would have done it that way and then done the filter after the fluid was looking better. Don't mean to scare you, just passing on my disappointing experience.

1 & 7 are side-by-side at the distributor cap, so I'd inspect the cap and rotor closely.

I changed caps a while back to address my cluster problems and things were great. A month or so ago the speedo would intermittently not function, so I would "thump" the dash to jumpstart it. I don't know if it is related, but now the end 1/4 of the needle won't illuminate. Thinking perhaps the "thumping" caused a cracking of the conductive material on the needle.

EG416ecm.pdf EG578dtc31.pdf

I would resolve the Code 71 first. This should help: EG602dtc71.pdf

Both are possible. The following is from the webpage of an ECM rebuilder. It applies to many Japanese makes from this time period. Mitsubishi/Honda ECM failures -- Fact or fiction: The fact is, the Mitsubishi and Honda models of ECMs and TCUs manufactured within the years of 1989-1994 utilize certain electrolytic capacitors that after a certain number of hours or mileage, begin a systematic breakdown. These capacitors eventually break their seal and leak the electrolyte which is a corrosive substance. This corrosive substance actually destroys the area of the mother board computer chip and any adjacent components will be adversely affected. So the longer one waits to repair the unit, the lesser a chance there is of reparability. Most units are repairable unless there is damage to a part that is not made available to us. Presently, their are specific components that are damaged occasionally that we can not purchase. We are the first company to specialize in this field and we have the best technicians in the business. The hardest component to acquire is the processor chips. The processor chips are imbedded chips or IC chips that contain vital information which is copy written and is likely not to be able to access. In most cases when the IC chip or chips are damaged, they will experience a heat to the imbedded chip which will damage the chip and often a heated IC will have a variance on the smooth surface of the chip from the heat. The variance may be in the form of a bubble or rise or in some cases a hole or crack is blown though. In these cases, we can possibly change the IC chip if another donor computer is available. This will be the only time the repair cost will be affected due to the fact that often we must purchase the unit for the specific IC application. When this occurs, you will be informed of the change in the price quote and upon permission, we will change the IC chip processor for the additional cost. The warranty will not be affected.

I only have my one-time experience to go on, but I can tell you that the whole assembly is not light. It mounts only along the edges, so I can imagine that over many years it will sit differently in the roof hole. I would play with shim adjustment first, but I enjoy that sort of thing. :)

Congrats on the new car!!!! Well, congrats to her anyway ;) Kinda funny cuz I was reading an article on the Mazdaspeed 3 the other day while waiting for the LS to get emissions inspected and was thinking "what a great car to share driving duties with the flagship". I'd probably HAVE to buy it for my wife to ever make that fly. :D

:o I don't know how much you have invested in this new ECU, but that sounds like Russian roulette plugging it into an electrical system that may have ruined the previous one. I don't mean to sound alarmist and I hope it's a simple case of plug'n'play, but you didn't include that last little bit in your initial question. I'm curious to know what specific failure the old ECU exhibited. A common problem on these cars for no-start is the Main Relay. My daughter's '89 left her stuck at Wal-Mart. It wouldn't do a thing when you turned the key. I dropped the relay, popped the cover, touched up the solder joints and it was good to go.

Nc, Your sub is on the way. Hey DC, was that indeed your last one? I'm in the market. Thanks!

My son smashed up the '94, so now I'm driving a '93 also......... whodathunkit? I'm not aware of any pics or tutorials. All depends on whether by broken sunroof you mean the glass or the mechanism. If you need to swap out the whole assembly then you need to remove the Headliner. If you are just replacing the glass panel, then you will find that the plastic trim on the bottom side of the glass is held on with pinch clips (proper terminology?). The plastic may be sunbaked and brittle in which case it is likely to break. With the plastic off you will be able to access the nuts on the mounting studs and it will be pretty straightforward from there. You will probably find shims at the attachment points. Keep track of quantity and location for reassembly. I probably spent more time adjusting shim thickness and test driving for wind-whistle than I did in changing the glass.

I would urge you to make a small expenditure and replace your Sway Bar Bushings before those couple of weeks are up. I think you will be amazed what a difference this inexpensive repair will make in the handling of your vehicle. If afterwards you agree, then you can always pursue further replacements/enhancements that will allow you to enjoy your LS to the fullest. If not, then you won't be out much when you trade it for something else.

Excellent!

Ouch! Yeah, I winced just reading that :) You could try This. Take care Sheab.

Oh, man! Look, he's already stepping out on us..... ;) Hope you enjoy many years of pleasurable, trouble-free ownership with your new purchase. Best wishes to you Carmine!

I'm with SK on this. NEW rotors should already have the proper micron finish for seating to the new pads. They will also have the non-directional finish which is the result of the circular sanding you described. We called the seating of new brake pads/shoes "burnishing". Brake_Burnishing_Procedures.pdf I have read many comments about slotted rotors making that hissing sound, so I would have to believe it is the nature of the beast.

Couple of possibilities Here.

This looks like forgery to me.....

dtc1415.pdf

speedsensor.pdf

To RGUTOW who asked: "Could you tell me where I can purchase the 5 spoke 18 inch replicas in chrome for $200 each for my 2003 LS 430 Ultra? Thanks! Chrome wheels are expensive! Sincerely, Ross" Try Capital Wheels

Yeah, I used this Tutorial.

Very cool!!! B)

Maybe this will help? shiftlocksys.pdf