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About LScott400

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    Advanced Club Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1963

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  • Lexus Model
    11 ES350 / 99 LS400
  • Lexus Year
  • Location
    Texas (TX)
  1. Steps 6 to 8 are on removal of the reservoir.
  2. I bought the same car (less Nav & phone) in April with 138,000 mi. I went to my Lexus dealer and gave them the VIN and they were able to pull the service histiory. Turned out one owner, local, and everything had always been done at the dealer including recent timing belt/water pump and rack & pinion. That along with a clean Carfax gave me the confidence to pull the trigger. The Benz dealer had it priced at $11,999 on the sticker. I walked out for $8000 even. A dream to drive after my 275,000 mile 93 & 94 LS's.
  3. Great stuff here:
  4. I would try cleaning the solenoid screen first. Links with pics in the following post:
  5. One of the things I have noticed is that the coils have not been replaced on many of these cars. They'll cause this kind of problem and they are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace (unlike that starter!) The early '90's cars also had problems with leaking capacitors in the ECM's. Find a local rebuilder that can inspect/test yours.
  6. Nice looking car - you'll love it! Take it to a local auto upholstery shop. They'll be able to rebuild that driver's seat - probably feel better than new. I live in Texas and add a can of R134a every 2 months. Too cheap to replace the evaporator.
  7. I don't find anything in the service manual that suggests that the evaporator is monitored for cooling fan operation. There is a coolant temperature switch in the radiator that affects fan operation. I would check the relay first, then the ECT switch. The following portion of the manual has a wiring diagram and pages 16-18 have the procedure for removing and testing the ECT switch. Hope this helps! electriccoolingfan.pdf
  8. Many thanks to Threadcutter for the info on the flow control valve differences. I replaced alternator/ PS pump today and having read this I checked the valves. "D" in my old one and "F" in my replacement. Swapped the "D" to my fresh pump and it drives like a champ. I would have been very disappointed to have spent those dollars and hours ending up wondering if my new pump had a problem. You ever need anything TC, I'm at
  9. That looks like a good price in H-town. Private Party value according to KBB and almost $4000 less than suggested retail.
  10. Perhaps you have already seen this one, but This Thread helped me fix mine.
  11. Main O2's should be 5.1 - 6.3 ohms at 68 degrees F. Sub O2's should be good if you don't have a Code 27 or 29. If you want to perform the factory test on the mains: EG406mainheatedo2.pdf
  12. Trade-in value is $12,000. I agree w/ Landar.
  13. This is for an LS, but it may help....... EG351mfithrottlebody.pdf