oohryry

My throttle body will no longer reset the rpms to 650. They are in the 1200 range and I cant reset them manually from the info on lexls because it was for a 1990 to 1994 model and the sensor doesn't do it, its electronical which sucks cuz thats the reason why these Toyotas are taking off flying. Since there's a problem in my vehicle, it takes over the accelerator and jumps to 2000 rpms when the computer checks the engine. I assume the fail safe keeps it at 2000 rpms, but if the fail safe fails, I assume them Toyotas jumping past 6000 rpms. Just my opinion. but back to my question, I need a throttle body now because I cleaned it and it wont reset. My Lex keeps taking control of the throttle and I have to shut the engine off for a few seconds and restart it to get control of the throttle. Im getting sick of having to do this everytime I get to a stop light. I can mash the gas pedal to the floor to get to the fail safe point but that takes too long to accelerate. Any help because I cannot seem to find anyone with a 1998 thru 2000 throttle body besides the EXPENSIVE dealership. I know, spend the money, but I just finished spending two grand at Len Stoler Lexus on the timing belt, water pump, unper control arm, and spark plugs replacement. Tryna get a break here this summer. geez lol.

The wiring diagram section wont open for some reason, but this is a great site. Thanks. WOW!!!!!! Thanks, I have no idea why it wouldn't open for me from the site, it would just keep loading for hours. Thanks for a direct PDF link.

The wiring diagram section wont open for some reason, but this is a great site. Thanks.

1998. My cousin was testing some of the circuits and he may have blown something or caused cross wiring or something. The vents wont blow on their own, but if you take off the relay and send power with tester the A/C comes right on and blows. Its gotta be some resistence somewhere in between when I replace the relay.

Replaced the relay, still no air blowing. Mechanic hooked up tester and gets power and negative but cannot read the current. Air works fine when he forces current with his tester so the blower and current is fine, but will not work on its own with the old or new relay. Need wiring diagram (schematic) so he can repair. Thanks guys.

I purchased two universal catalytic converters from Rockauto.com and need replacement instructions. If this job requires welding I'll just have a mechanic complete the work tomorrow morning. Thanks to all. Has to be done, my vehicle is dragging terribly and gas mileage is dropped tremendously. Already had the codes pulled at Lexus of Annapolis, but their prices are out the roof for replacement.

I've spoken with my claims adviser and he went to Midas and looked at the car was as confused as I was as to how I took the car in the day before to have it evaluated and they found nothing wrong with the ball joint. Well, he said I have to pay for the ball joint which caused the damage which Midas said will cost me $280.02 and the insurance will pay for the rest if any other suspension damage has occurred due to the wheel falling off and the fender and wheel well damage and tire and rim minus my deductible. Yes it sucks and they told him I was there yesterday to have it checked out but they couldn't find anything wrong and that maybe the part was just worn really bad but shown no signs. I can't take the risk of more damage by putting it up on the tow truck again and the adjuster agreed with that. However, he told me to get my own parts and not go through Midas mark ups for the tire and rim and the insurance will also cover the alignment. But this still sucks. I guess I have to start getting my checkups at the nearest Lexus dealer now. Thanks to all for your help and yes even though it didn't scare me I am still thankful to God I am alive. Thanks Fam. If anyone knows how this unit separates or has any pics or info on how this occurs or what causes it please post. Talk to ya soon. Gotta drive down Virginia now and borrow one of my sisters vehicles she doesn't use.

I replaced my pulley and serpentine belt on my 98 last year when the bearing ripped apart and caused the serpentine belt to break. The dealer wanted 90 dollars, I would have went to a machine shop to have a new bearing pressed in but I found one on a salvaged Lexus engine that was in an accident for 10 dollars. Took about 15 minutes to put it and the belt on, very easy process. You don't want to be on the road far away and your serp belt break. It runs your power steering and alternator.

So I'm told my left inner tie rod end has play in it. So I order one from RockAuto.com and have it put on at my favorite Midas in Glen Burnie, Md with an alignment on Feb. 24, 2009. $255.02 total labor with tax. I notice now that the steering will not return automatically when i make a turn. I called them and figured maybe the tie rod was put on too tight maybe. They said bring it back, so I waited for a day they weren't too busy which was yesterday. They checked everything, did not find any play in any of the ball joints or tie rods. They told me it may be the rack and pinion is not getting fluid to return possibly and gave me an estimate for the rack and pinion if that's the problem. Today on my way to work my driver side wheel came off the ball that holds it and spun inside out on I-695 shredding my tire and damaging my side fender, I was able to pull off the highway with my passenger wheel steering me while the driver wheel pulled me to a screeching smoking stop. Good thing I'm not the type that panics. What I would like to know is that if it was no play in any of the joints or rods after the inspection, what could have caused my wheel to pop off the joint? The highway was clear and had no potholes, although I don't think a pothole would even make my wheel pop off if there was one. If there is no play in the joints how do you know when they need replacement? I thought I did everything I knew possible to keep my suspension maintained so this would not ever occur. What causes your wheel to pop off the joint? All mechanical advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.

Last night I noticed the lights were out on my stereo. I hit it with the palm of my hand and some of the lights returned on, but the screen stayed dark along with the track tune button, number 3 and 4 preset and the balance and fader were still out. The number 3 and 4 preset has been out for months, but that didn't bother me because everything else was fine. Now I can't see the screen and this is wack. I would like to take it apart and disconnect it then reconnect to see if that helps. Do I need any special tools to do so? I've changed plenty of stereos on american made vehicles and Toyota, but my Lexus unit looks like it may need some special attention. Anyone ever had their lights to go out on the stereo? If so, what was the solution and repair cost? Thanks guys. And Gals. stereo1.bmp

Congrats. She's a beauty. Just wish I'd of known you were selling your 95. I definitely would have forked out 3k since the timing belt broke on my wifes Acura Legend. I'm looking for a quick cheap replacement for a year or so.

I can't get the bolts to turn. I have the upper control arm popped, but can't get the two top bolts to move or the bottom bolts to take of the coil to make more room. Which direction are the control arm bolts suppose to go? Pull the wrench downward towards me or push it upwards away from me? Righty-tighty / lefty-loosey - when facing the bolt. So to answer you question about direction: both! Man, are you bringing back some memories when I did this. Wore myself out to the point were I nearly passed out in the shower afterwards. I can't recall ever being so tired. My legs were like rubber, and thought I was going to puke, I was that tired. Hit the bolts with some WD40, liquid wrench preferred, but WD will work as well. I assume you're using a basic wrench? If so, and this is a little tricky, but let the liquid wrench/wd40 sit on the bolt for a few seconds, then with one hand holding the wrench in place at the bolt, take a hammer and tap/hit the other end a few times to loosen up via shock. Then put a little more wd40/liquid wrench on there and tap again, then let it sit for a few minutes to let it work it's way in. It should bust loose shortly thereafter. OR, and this makes EASY work of those damn bolts....a cheater bar or breaker bar. It's basically a 30 inch wrench. The further away from the bolt you can get, the more leverage you'll acheive. BUT WARNING:: WATCH OUT ON THE BOLT THAT REQUIRES YOU TO MOVE THE WRENCH UP!!! YOU'LL HIT THE FENDER OF THE CAR AND DING IT! Breaker bars are sold everywhere, very common in automotive stores. Probably cost around $25 bucks. Or if you have a hollow steel tube that you can slide over the handle of the wrench and achieve a decent enough fit to lift with it, use that. But nothing beats a breaker bar. It's one of those tools that you'll keep forever and use again and again as the car ages and you take on more chores yourself. Especially on the bolts to remove the calipers if you take on the brake rotors. Those puppies get so much grime on them, then gets cooked on with the heat....damn near impossible to loosen them at first without some serious leverage... Thanks for all your help nc, but it wouldn't come off. I used everything I could, even grip pliers and strip the bolts. Took it to Midas today. They re-sanded the bolts and put on my used upper control arm. $245.00. Eric finished it quickly for me though that's what I love about going to Midas in Glen Burnie. He'll fix it right. Oh well, maybe I'll get my next diy right. I was going to take off the coil, but Auto Zone gave me the wrong coil spring tensioner. Thanks again.

It was 100 degrees the other day and I was in the Popeyes drive thru ordering chicken when I noticed after waiting about 6 minutes idle for my food, the temperature gauge went right below the Hot marker. I put it in neutral and hit the accelerator and it started to go back down some. Once I started driving it went back to normal shortly. Is this normal, I don't think so. Do I need a new radiator or fan or something or should I just have my coolant flushed. Anyone have any experience with this issue?

I can't get the bolts to turn. I have the upper control arm popped, but can't get the two top bolts to move or the bottom bolts to take of the coil to make more room. Which direction are the control arm bolts suppose to go? Pull the wrench downward towards me or push it upwards away from me?

Got this mileage on the way back home from vacation in Orlando, Florida.