LScott400

Fresh rack&pinion mount bushings and sway bar bushings will make a noticeable difference.

Our '93 and '94 both have them. How To Remove Cabin Air Filter, For 1993&94 LS400

Steering rack Master control switch reardriveshaftcomponents.pdf

It sounds like the fault may lie in the rack and pinion unit. Steering gears have a spool valve which incorporate a torsion bar (straight spring). When you turn the steering wheel left or right the bar twists and allows hydraulics passages to align that provide you with steering assist. As you ease pressure off of the steering wheel the torsion bar springs back to an untwisted position which misaligns the passages cutting off the steering assist while the alignment angles take over to return the vehicle to straight ahead tracking. If the torsion bar breaks, then there is nothing to hold the spool valve in a center/neutral position. The result is that you have to constantly steer back and forth to hold it at center position while the different road forces are at work applying pressure one way or another. This Link explains the function and includes drawings.

Earlier this year I followed the instructions in This Link and replaced capacitors c203 & c220 with parts from Radio Shack. No problem since. (Note: The pics in link are reversed as relates to text. Top pic relates to above repair.) Disclosure upon resale would simply include stating that display had intermittent problems that included inoperative odometer which has since been repaired. No fraud would apply because disclosure reveals not every single mile was recorded during malfunction and there was no willful action taken to deliberately cause odometer to improperly record actual mileage.

The following is only a deductive guess on my part: #1 cylinder is on the driver's side of the engine. The main O2 sensor is followed by the sub O2 sensor. So I would guess that "bank 1 sensor 1" is the driver's side main O2 sensor. This link is a tutorial on older models and should be very similar to yours. If I have "deduced" wrong, then hopefully someone will set us both straight. :)

Check to make sure your electric fans in front of the condensor/radiator are coming on.

Service Manual says: IAC Valve Circuit Circuit Description: The IAC valve is provided on the intake air chamber and intake air bypassing the throttle valve is directed to the IAC valve through a hose. A step motor is built into the IAC valve. It consists of four coils, the magnetic rotor, valve shaft and valve. When current flows to the coils due to signals from the ECM, the rotor turns and moves the valve shaft forward or backward, changing the clearance between the valve and the valve seat. In this way the intake air volume bypassing the throttle valve is regulated, controlling the engine speed. There are 125 possible positions to which the valve can be opened. Perhaps it needs to be cleaned/inspected?

To try and confirm a computer problem, you could pull the ECM and open it up to look for leaking capacitors. This Link has pictures and explanations, but it is NOT for an LS400. I had leaking capacitors in my '94. There are rebuilders that you can ship to with an explanation of symptoms that can test and rebuild for you. If your diagnosis and MAF replacement were performed by a Lexus dealer and they did not correct your problem, it should be up to them to confirm that an ECM will actually fix the car. Then there should be an adjustment made for the repair that did not correct the condition since they gave the diagnosis.

Something we ran into on our '94 was a couple of the brake light lamps wouldn't activate when the pedal was depressed. In checking the sockets we discovered the contact nubs were worn. Adding solder to the bulb contacts corrected.

Ross, do you know the specific locations for the engine grounds or know where there are pics? Thanks.

Maybe This would be a better option for you? This is what I followed on my '94.

I bought these Hood Struts and they work fine.

You may have seen this recent Thread. If not, you might see if your symptoms are in common with AustinGT. His turned out to be a fuel injector pump relay.

The spec for upper ball joints in the Lexus service manual is a minimum turning torque of 9 in/lbs. Non-load carrying ball joints are designed to have preload. Any "perceptible movement" would mean there is no preload remaining. Non-load carrying ball joints are smaller and lighter built than their load carrying counterparts. Once movement of the ball occurs in the socket, wear increases rapidly leading to a possible catastrophic failure. On the other hand, the lower ball joints (load carrying) have a spec of .012" max. vertical play with allowable zero turning torque. Unfortunately, the ball joints on this vehicle were not designed to accomodate grease zerks that would allow for regular lubrication, so both time and/or mileage lead to wear. Reference - see paragraph 9. (This article covers SUV's, but the suspension component descriptions apply to all vehicles.)

O'Reilly Auto Parts shows one at $139.99 with a $60 core charge. Autozone shows one at $140.00 with a $100 core charge. Both show to have a Limited Lifetime warranty.

You mentioned an upper control arm. Do you know if it was recommended due to worn bushings or because of the ball joint? The upper is a non-load carrying ball joint with a specification of "No perceptible movement". Upper control arms list for over $400, but with some shopping you should be able to get one for $325-350. Replacement is straightforward and this Link will allow you to decide if you are comfortable with attempting it yourself. It is true that wheel alignment will be of little value if there are worn suspension parts. CV boots crack with age, but can be damaged by foreign objects. When a leak develops the rotation of the joint will produce a fine spray of grease on the surrounding components. Leaking CV's can go many months before expelling all the grease. Loss of lubricant and the accumulation of contaminates will begin to wear the joint. Wear will be noticed as a clicking sound when turning tightly, particularly during acceleration. Left unserviced, eventually the joint will break internally at which point the vehicle will no longer propel itself.

The evaporator is the lowest point in the system so the hydrochloric acid formed by R-12 in contact with water collects in the bottom.

Mileage and condition make it sound like a great purchase! I bought an antenna from This guy and it worked well.

- Compressor: Compressors normally develop leaks at the shaft seal. If the seal is simply worn a rebuild would do the trick. However, if there is wear on the shaft (we're talking thousandths of an inch) then it would have to be replaced also. Assuming the compressor is original, a replacement compressor would seem to make more sense. - Evaporator: Evaporators can develop leaks both externally and internally. Poor air flow (debris) and plugged condensate drains cause oxidation and result in a leak. More often moisture in the refrigerant creates an acid which eats through the evaporator. It pools and eats through the bottom which is why the leak is often detected at the condensate drain. - Oil: I don't have the specs, but each component of the A/C will trap a quantity of refrigerant oil. Somewhere there are specs on the amount of oil to add to each component replaced. Ideally, the condensor would be removed and purged of any oil and debris, then refilled. - Pressure switch: Depending on the cost, I would not likely replace this unless I determined it was malfunctioning. - Tools: The performance of the vacuum pump will be critical. A pump that only pulls 28.3" of vacuum will require that the ambient temperature of the system must be ~93F degrees or higher to boil out the water. A unit that pulls 29.7" only requires the ambient temperature of the system need be ~35F degrees or higher. The longer you let the pump run, the more likely you will remove all of the moisture. When complete, allow the system to sit with the vacuum pulled on it for a half hour to check for leaks. Assuming no leakage in the manifold gauge set, a loss of vacuum will let you know you still have work to do. Moisture is invariably introduced into the system any time refrigerant is added or when all of the refrigerant escapes. The receiver/drier has a dessicant bag in it to capture residual amounts of moisture, but its capacity is limited. That is why the drier needs to be replaced whenever components are replaced. Directing a heat gun or lamp at the drier during the vacuum process will help the dessicant give up moisture trapped there. Hopefully, someone else will have answers for your other questions. Have fun!

Another contributing factor to thickness variation in a rotor is if the slider pins or their bushings are worn allowing the caliper to shift from its normal perpendicular orientation. Of course, being a "Hunter" guy I would refer you to the following Link.

Maybe this will help?

Here is a picture of a '92.

Seat belt Thread.

Thanks SK! Here you go Walt.