LScott400

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/pspumpremoval.html Steps 6 to 8 are on removal of the reservoir. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/psa.jpg

I bought the same car (less Nav & phone) in April with 138,000 mi. I went to my Lexus dealer and gave them the VIN and they were able to pull the service histiory. Turned out one owner, local, and everything had always been done at the dealer including recent timing belt/water pump and rack & pinion. That along with a clean Carfax gave me the confidence to pull the trigger. The Benz dealer had it priced at $11,999 on the sticker. I walked out for $8000 even. A dream to drive after my 275,000 mile 93 & 94 LS's.

Great stuff here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/ignition/

Hope this helps! coils.pdf

I would try cleaning the solenoid screen first. Links with pics in the following post: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&p=72657

That is a cool tool!

One of the things I have noticed is that the coils have not been replaced on many of these cars. They'll cause this kind of problem and they are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace (unlike that starter!) The early '90's cars also had problems with leaking capacitors in the ECM's. Find a local rebuilder that can inspect/test yours.

Nice looking car - you'll love it! Take it to a local auto upholstery shop. They'll be able to rebuild that driver's seat - probably feel better than new. I live in Texas and add a can of R134a every 2 months. Too cheap to replace the evaporator.

I don't find anything in the service manual that suggests that the evaporator is monitored for cooling fan operation. There is a coolant temperature switch in the radiator that affects fan operation. I would check the relay first, then the ECT switch. The following portion of the manual has a wiring diagram and pages 16-18 have the procedure for removing and testing the ECT switch. Hope this helps! electriccoolingfan.pdf

Many thanks to Threadcutter for the info on the flow control valve differences. I replaced alternator/ PS pump today and having read this I checked the valves. "D" in my old one and "F" in my replacement. Swapped the "D" to my fresh pump and it drives like a champ. I would have been very disappointed to have spent those dollars and hours ending up wondering if my new pump had a problem. You ever need anything TC, I'm at Redshirt28@hotmail.com.

That looks like a good price in H-town. Private Party value according to KBB and almost $4000 less than suggested retail.

Perhaps you have already seen this one, but This Thread helped me fix mine.

Main O2's should be 5.1 - 6.3 ohms at 68 degrees F. Sub O2's should be good if you don't have a Code 27 or 29. If you want to perform the factory test on the mains: EG406mainheatedo2.pdf

Trade-in value is $12,000. I agree w/ Landar.

This is for an LS, but it may help....... EG351mfithrottlebody.pdf

onvehicleinspection.pdf

You might also try a product made by PPG, DX330 ACRYLI-CLEAN Wax and Grease Remover found at body shop supply houses.

The arrow points to where the oil pump seals to the block. You would have to perform the steps for replacing a Water Pump and then remove the #1 oil pan, oil pan baffle plate, oil pickup screen, #2 oil pan and finally the oil pump. Not having done this, I don't know if you'll have to drop the crossmember or not. If you do, then you'll need to support the engine with an engine hoist - but you won't have to pull the engine.

No fun! Back in April you were talking about wind noise. Did you have a chance to play with it or have you been spending all your time on your Chevy coupe? You'll probably have to pull the glass at a minimum to inspect the track. Otherwise you'll have the joy of pulling the headliner and dropping the whole thing. On a cheerier note, I had found the whole assembly at a salvage yard for $125 and used the best parts from the two.

Have a Lexus dealer or an independent that specializes in Lexus inspect it for you. Could be a great trade. Your Suburban probably has the infamous leaking intake which would explain your coolant disappearance. They also had problems with the fuel injection (SCPI) which was later scrapped by GM and replaced by a new system (MFI). You might also get an estimate on the intake fix and injection swap (they'll have it off to do the intake) and that amount might cover the services necessary on the LS.

You just need something like This .

My wife has had her eye on GX's after realizing what a great car my old LS is. Well, tonight we traded the '01 X5 for an '04 GX -Silver Pine Metallic w/ Dark gray interior. Yay!!!! Now I can actually get an oil filter at the local parts place without having to order it :D

Hey, DC - gotta question. My '93 plays only out of the front speakers for the first 5-10 seconds then the rears will come on. Would that be an amp problem do you think? (Nakamichi) Thanks.

And you didn't take pictures for us???!!! <_< Very happy you got it going!

If the rack is moving it may just need rack mounting bushings. You may need to get a second opinion at another shop. That doesn't sound like an intermediate shaft, although they do get noisy on these cars. Do you know if the spring insulators were changed when they did the struts? If not, that may be your noise. Unfortunately, due to the age of these cars many things can cause front end noise. On the PS hose, one from the dealer will run $330-400. There is a reseller on ebay for much less unless you insist on dealer parts. ginabops A lot of guys have gotten their power steering systems to actually quit leaking by flushing the PS system and cleaning the PS Solenoid Screen. I wouldn't drop a bundle on repairs until that was done and continued leakage was confirmed.