LScott400

1)Strut Bar Bushing 2) Steering Damper - Read Post #6

I don't have this problem, but if you want info this might get you started: odmainswitch_lightcircuit.pdf

Thanks for the good advice and the offer for guidance! I'm fortunate that the route I have for work includes our regional training center equipped with 2 alignment systems, tirechangers & balancers and on- & off-car brake lathes. It has an OTC strut spring compressor on a mounting stand, so I'm good to go if I can unclench my wallet long enough to make the purchase

I don't know if '95 was different, but I remember changing a 30A fusible link in a '94 (looked like a big fuse, pink body with a clear window on top) to get a fan running again. The following is the section out of '94 manual (the "FAN H-Fuse" denoted in the upper right corner of the 1st page was the one I changed): electriccoolingfan.pdf

I have my own beautiful, blushing bride of nearly 22 years that requires special handling... especially when I spend too much time wrenching in the driveway/garage as my escape. My latest Stealth has just about got me moved into the doghouse. ;) My auto relationship seems to be a mirror image. I absolutely love those Mitsu 3000GT/Stealths, but high maintenance and frustration is the rule rather than exception. :chairshot:

Hey 'Cutter, Thanks for responding! You were actually the guy I was most hoping to hear from since you've had yours awhile. I guess things have changed. Looks like $450 from Lexus Parts Online and $235 shipped on the GR-2's through eBay. I put maybe 100 miles a week on the old girl and that RF has a lower bushing slopping all over. Considering your comments, my limited usage and the current price difference I might have to go with the Gr-2's and apply the remainder to insulators and mounts if necessary. Thanks again for taking the time to holler out! :)

Being the frugal cheapskate I am and not authorized for dealer employee pricing, I have avoided making this same type of decision. However, in your case I would have to spring for the extra $110 to get OEM. You may wish to view This Thread among others for additional help to make your decision.

Check to make sure your sunroof is fully closed. :)

I don't have TRAC, but it makes sense to me that the first one was clean. Sub-throttle inspection and adjustment starts in the middle of Page 11 of the following attachment: EG351mfithrottlebody.pdf

Hey, that's great news! Glad it worked out for you! It's a great feeling to fix a $1000 part for a few hours time and a pocketful of change isn't it?

You've got that right! Seafoamed a '91 Stealth this weekend and almost wet myself when smoke started pouring out of the front of the engine compartment. Turned out to be a burnt gasket on the downpipe off the exhaust manifold.

Yep. Intense heat causes cracking and deterioration.

I bet you'll be pleased, like Harky, at the difference. I always get great satisfaction out of repairing (or having repaired) a component that makes a noticeable improvement. But I know know there are people who could not care less as long as it gets them from point A to point B.

My definition of really beneficial is replacing a bad tire when the steel cord is showing, so I'd have to say probably not. Well, I know having a wall between my rooms reduces my kids' noises. However, a metal undercover is unlikely to have the same sound dampening effect as plastic. As far as proving it, I guess you'd have to put one on to tell. I bet if you remove your hood blanket you'll hear more noise. :)

Was it the driver's side coil? Seems like I remember hearing that the tach signal comes off that one and that symptom can be used as an indicator of coil breakdown.

Looks better lowered, but I'm an old guy so the wheels aren't my style. You decide and enjoy. I certainly do appreciate the efforts you have put in to your ride. Makes my '93 look like an old man car. :)

Yes. Jack up the front wheels to unload them and then slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth from lock to lock until system is quiet. If you don't, eventually the system will bleed through the normal course of driving, but it is hard on the pump.

You should have your charging system rechecked. With the car running the alternator should provide sufficient supply even at idle. The battery's purpose is limited to engine startup and the use of accessories when the engine is not running.

Sounds like a tire with internal belt separation. A tire inspection would be the first place to start.

You can check that by jacking the front wheels up and starting the engine/turning it off while watching the steering wheel. Do it a half dozen times. If the steering wheel kicks to the right each time as the power steering pump pressurizes, then the problem is in the rack.

If you have the opportunity to take pics during the install, I would love to see them! Sounds way more fun than maintenance repairs

I would think you could reseal the pipe to the bypass. The question is can you get the mating surfaces clean and dry in preparation for the sealer without removing the bypass assembly.

I think you're right. Looks like steps 10-12 would be easier after radiator removal.

See #6 at: Places to Buy or Download Any Lexus Repair Manual

I've never seen anything to suggest that there are different ECM's based on traction control. You mention that plugs were changed, but not wires, caps, rotors or coils. It is possible that in pulling the wires to install the plugs that a deteriorated wire(s) did not hold up well under the stress. You could ohm out the wires with a digital voltmeter to check them. I had a '94 with the exact same symptoms you describe in your initial post. The ECM had leaking capacitors and had eaten through the protective film on the circuit board. The replacement ECM totally cured the problem, but I knew I had good (recent) plugs, wires, caps & rotors. A few months later it developed an immediate problem of no acceleration under any conditions. A new driver's side coil fixed that. What I don't know is if the coil was part of the initial problem, but the ECM was enough to compensate causing the coil to finish dying. If you don't have personal knowledge or receipts from relatively recent wires, caps & rotors replacement, then I would start there. If they are known good, then I would replace those 14 year old coils. If the problem is still not resolved, then I would contact the ECM supplier about how to go about getting a replacement. Fun ain't it? ;)