TrevC

I suppose you could wire a switch into the fuse supply to cut the power to the system for it to go offline

Hi Fernando...welcome to the Forum I'm not 100% sure but can't you temporarily switch off the VSC and TRC from inside the vehicle via a switch on the dashboard? It will then automatically default back to being switched on every time the ignition is cycled. Cheers Trevor

Hi Larry....welcome to the Forum Sounds like it may be the security alarm siren or horn...maybe water ingress. Would also be worth checking the security and condition of the battery terminals. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

Hi Andrew...welcome to the Forum Only thing I've really found with cars that have been laid up for a period of time is that the brakes seize, tyres perish and mould tends to grow inside the car....but otherwise if it's been stored in the dry, maybe just a change of fluids would suffice. Let us know how you get on with it, would be nice to see before and after pictures as well. Cheers Trevor

Hi Kelly...welcome to the Forum I find I get this on one of my cars and it's because the alloy rim is slightly corroded. I now alway fill my tyres with 'Slime' which cures leaks by vulcanising a hole when it leaks air and instantly seals....no more punctures or lost air pressure. Also, you can fill your tyres with Nitrogen which is more preferable than oxygen for maintaining air pressure in the tyres....although no good if you are losing pressure already. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

It could be that the brakes located on the kerb side have excessive corrosion due to running in surface water collection by the kerb....both sides would have to be worked on to keep the braking effort constant (e.g. new pads or equal thickness, quality, compound, etc)

Hi Dan...welcome to the Forum That's really unfortunate about the 'clocked' mileage and it happens in the UK too. I think if you have documented history of the car, it's not too much of an issue about what the odometer states. Probably best to leave it like it is and then at least you haven't had any involvement in altering the mileage as well. Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum I too am based in the UK and did you know there is a UK based Lexus Forum (part of this Forum) http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/ The noise you describe does sound like a wheel bearing and the fact that your mechanic stated that there was minimal play suggests that when the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing it will load up on the bearing play and generate the noise. As for the creaking suspension...I also own an Alfa Romeo and it creaks worse than my old bones until everything is warmed up. Can't find any play in the joints and bushes but the rubber parts creak unless I spray Silicon spray on them...which lasts for a while and works a treat. Good to have you onboard ! Cheers Trevor.

You could try removing the power fuse to the system to reboot it and see if that cures the problem

There is a saying I use when recommending someone to buy a battery which is 'you get what you pay for'. Now, I know you may well have paid loads of money for a battery from the dealer but it is not necessarily a quality battery, just expensive! You can usually tell if it's a quality battery by the weight of it...try lifting a cheap battery and compare it to one of the same size but of better quality/cost...the heavier one usually has more lead content in it....cheap ones don't. Always buy the best you can for the money, and warranty isn't necessarily an indicator of quality. Cheers Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the Club I would say it sounds like a great buy. I would probably replace the serpentine belt as soon as possible as at least it's out of your mind then and not likely to fail in service. The coolant reservoir I assume is the overflow one in the engine bay? Sounds ominous as you say it is empty, unless it has a split in it. Go for it...I'm sure you won't regret it Cheers Trevor

Hi....and welcome to the club I think that would do the job nicely as all the parts seem to be there, just means you will need to use two keys as the original one would do for the trunk and doors and the new one just for the ignition lock. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Dave Brave man carrying out a swap like this! Thinking if it was me doing this job, i would probably wire up everything I knew would work and then worry about other ancilliaries after that. Best of luck with the rest of the project and I hope someone can come up with the wiring diagrams that you need. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Daniel...welcome to the Club You can replace the bushes individually but you will usually need an hydraulic press to fit them. With common place cars like Ford for example, there is little cost benefit to replacing just the bush. Cheers Trevor

Hi Garrick....welcome to the Club That's quite strange, possibly a loose connection which moves enough to cut the radio when going over bumps? Be interested to see the responses to your post as there may be a common fault for this. Cheers Trevor

Hi Antoine...welcome to the Club Here is a link which describes the code P0157 which I believe is post catalytic converter. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0157 I would look for any sign of exhaust leak which could cause the sensor to read excess air and run lean. Alternatively, it could actually be the code P0600 which is causing the error P0157...worth checking further before replacing a Lambda sensor. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi David...welcome to the Club I am thinking battery terminals are corroded or loose, possibly. Could you upload a picture of the battery terminals as they are. Cheers Trevor

Hi Daymon....welcome to the Club I don't have a wiring diagram for these systems but if they all share the same circuit (or part of), then I would trace back to the fusebox(s) and go from there as it would have a common live or earth which could be at fault. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi Debbie...welcome to the Club There are currently recall bulletins for many manufacturers at the moment but I cannot see one for Lexus on SRS, only ABS. Good luck with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark....welcome to the Club I would recommend taking the car for a short drive first for the sensors to adjust to the new pressures...works a treat on my BMW motorbike. Some newer vehicles, you have to drive it to reset the system as it takes a reading from each individual wheel rotation to calculate the pressures. Certainly worth a try and then if not try the reset method you mention afterwards. Cheers Trevor

HI David I would definitely recommend the correct service for the age of the vehicle as it keeps the residual value of the vehicle maintained for future sale and ensures reliability. Additionally, there may be software downloads to the vehicle which need carrying out by the dealership. Hope that reassures you in spending hard earned money. Cheers Trevor

lol...that's true, she could do with knowing how to park but I still won't get away with using her vacuum cleaner

I could just imagine my wife's reaction when I tell her I'm going to use her vacuum to change the oil on my Lexus!

Hi Jason....welcome to the Club I would check to see if the ABS unit looks as though it could have had connectors removed from it during the work being carried out, maybe something not plugged back in? Also, a relay could have gone faulty...check also brake lights work as this can affect the ABS system as its looking for a brake signal (think there maybe two switches on the pedal that needs checking). These are simple checks but sometimes its the obvious things that get overlooked. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Martin...welcome to the forum You can post through the European Lexus Owners Club forum via the following link if that helps http://euro.lexusownersclub.com/forums/ Regards Trevor