TrevC

Oh Yes! That's an absolute beauty! Looks amazing in black as well

Sometimes, the A/C system relay packs up...locate it, take it out and shake it...if it rattles then it's broken. Once replaced, the A/C system may need to be reprogrammed to then start working Cheers Trevor

Sounds like a poor earth to the circuit...i would check that first

Hi Michelle, It sounds like you have some air in the cooling system. Two reasons, one...the engine overheating, and two...the heater not producing warm air. If you have air in the system, this can lead to poor circulation of the coolant around the engine and heater matrix. The important question is how is the air getting into the system. First place to start is the testing, or replacing the coolant pressure cap on the expansion tank to ensure that the system pressure is maintained, if this drops then the coolant boils off and leaves air in the system. Secondly, look for traces of leaks in the system...usually a trail of coloured staining around hoses and joints. A pressure test of the system will reveal this. Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor

I don't think the two problems are related but the knocking could be a worn anti-roll bar link. The TPMS may just need resetting with some diagnostic equipment. Let us know how you get on

Hi Jiovanny It does sound like you may have introduced a fault in the system by fitting HID lighting (aftermarket I assume?). Easiest way is to disconnect the HID units, once they have discharged (e.g. not shortly after they have been used, so preferably in the daytime) and see if the battery discharges overnight. If it doesn't then thats the problem Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor

Could be Air Cond related...as in the compressor being faulty and dragging the engine revs down. Definitely worth letting your mechanic check it over as soon as possible.

I think the only way forward is to break the trim off (if you are going to replace the trim with the handle integrated into it) or if not, try grinding the nuts off but you will probably damage the threads on the bolts/studs. Anyone come across this before?

Engines usually run at around 190 degrees (88 degrees Centrigrade) which you could measure with an infra-red temperature gun (very cheap to buy nowadays).

Sounds like a Coolant Temperature Sensor issue...whatever that connector fits is a socket (female) connector...not likely to be a sensor (as they are predominantly male connections) but more like a wiring harness connection. It will have to be within the range of it's length but worth checking another one within that range hasn't been plugged in its' place accidentally...easily done!

I wouldn't believe the motor can be lubricated but the runner track could be...that may quieten it down a little.

I think if you mis-fuelled it prior to it starting to play up then I would at least put some fresh fuel in addition to what is already in there. Otherwise, you could check out the spark plugs and fit new if necessary. Other parts to check would be the Fuel Filter and Ignition system components.

Probably the best method is to drive it with a scanner connected and look at the live readings (get someone else to drive while you look at the scanner) and see what goes offline (e.g. fuel pump relay, battery voltage, etc)

Let us know how you get on with it, cheers

well another idea is that it could have water ingress into the electrics or something like corrosion on battery terminals / poor earth connections to the engine?

I would suggest that an ABS sensor or wiring is either disconnected or damaged. Sometimes the caliper is wound in without first cracking loose the bleed nipple and/or not using a hose clamp to avoid pressure being transferred back through the hydraulic system when winding back the caliper piston. This can damage the ABS modulator unit. Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor

Hi Sheila....welcome to the Club! I would suggest that an ABS sensor or wiring is either disconnected or damaged. Sometimes the caliper is wound in without first cracking loose the bleed nipple and/or not using a hose clamp to avoid pressure being transferred back through the hydraulic system when winding back the caliper piston. This can damage the ABS modulator unit. Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor

I would check the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) as a first port of call...symptoms seem to be describing a faulty sensor and cheap to replace

Hi Keith Have you got any pictures of the areas in question? Cheers Trevor

usually the odd connector will be floating around, intended to connect to a component which isn't on that particular model of car/engine but the wiring loom just carries it regardless. If you move it in an arc and look for anything it can fit within that movement area then if not and everything works fine then its a dummy connector. It also doesn't look as though its been connected to anything in a long time looking at the dirt that has built up in it

I would imagine it is either a brake rotor warpage issue or loose components on either the braking or suspension system. If it was ABS, it would illuminate a warning lamp on the instruments to show it is invoking...which if that times in with the judder then so be it. Otherwise, I would advise another independent inspection of the brakes and suspension to determine why there is a violent shudder when braking. Regards Trevor

Hi Kenz...welcome to the Club! That is a great looking car...probably just needs a damn good service, brake fluid replacement, etc Go for it ! Regards Trevor

Hi Terry Have you had the car checked out for fault codes as this sounds very much like a coolant temperature sensor (CTS) fault Worth checking before throwing big money at the problem Regards Trevor

Glad you've got a good result from the electrical issue although it does seem odd that one fuse controls all these individual systems. Personal choice with the sound system but I would fit an aftermarket unit as so many more functions available to you (phone connectivity, etc) Regards Trevor

HI...and welcome to the club! It looks to me, after watching the video clips that O2 sensor 2 is not reading because of an air leak before the Cat or the sensor body is corroded/damaged. Best way is to measure the oxygen level on a gas analyser and anything above zero is not good. Regards Trevor