Jump to content

TrevC

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    420

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Gallery

Store

Articles

Videos

News & Articles

Everything posted by TrevC

  1. TrevC
    Hi Randolph....welcome to the Forum On start-up the idle should be increased to around 1200-1300 rpm (raised idle) to speed up the engine/catalytic converter warm-up process. Should last for around a couple of minutes maximum. Something may be sticking in the idle control circuit if its that high...carbon build-up? Keep us updated on what you find. Cheers Trevor
  2. TrevC

    Road Trips !

    TrevC replied to TrevC's topic in General Chat

    Looks like a great road Becki...looking through the photos of the Tail of the Dragon there does seem to be a lot of bike accidents :-(
  3. TrevC
    Hi Paul Thanks for posting the tutorial...very helpful to anyone who hasn't yet changed an HID and confirmation for those who have but weren't sure of whether they had done it correctly Cheers Trevor
  4. TrevC
    Hi...and welcome to the Forum Thanks for posting up the pictures...now I'm really jealous What a gorgeous car ! Cheers Trevor
  5. TrevC
    Hi Samuel....welcome to the Forum I would advise testing where the leak is coming through by using a Smoke Generator which emits smoke on the inside of the vehicle and you can then see where it is coming out of....and there's where the water is coming in. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor
  6. TrevC
    I would always recommend a second opinion and in the case of the steering, it is not worth taking chances with leaking fluid. But I'm sure the job could be done cheaper elsewhere .... worth a second quote!
  7. TrevC
    I would then check the stop light switch which is on the brake pedal...if this is faulty it could hold the lights on. Disconnect the wires and see if the lights go out, if so then more than likely the switch at fault.
  8. TrevC
    Thanks for sharing this with us....its always good to hear that suggestions from members do actually work and even better when there is no cost involved
  9. TrevC
    Hi Donald...welcome to the Forum I would certainly attempt to fix it because if you've got to remove it to fit another one and strip it back to find out what is wrong...if you break it in the process there is nothing lost then Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor
  10. TrevC
    Hi Juan...welcome to the forum It sounds so much like a short circuit to me...however, quite where the fault is is another problem. I would probably start at the fusebox to ensure there is no water ingress or corrosion and work back from there. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor
  11. TrevC
    Hi Paul....welcome to the Forum First thoughts are transmission fluid level or quality ....possibly look at replacing fluid and filter? Cheers Trevor
  12. TrevC
    Just what the Doctor ordered !
  13. TrevC
    Hi Jim...welcome to the Forum It could possibly be something within the steering column (such as bearing, joint, etc) but equally it could be the indicator switch gear or steering lock catching when the wheel is turned. I would be tempted to remove the cowlings and see if you can get a better view of what's occurring in there. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor
  14. TrevC
    The Evap Solenoid is part of the emission control circuit...it is necessary to recirculate the fuel vapour to the tank and engine and really should be working to ensure the vapours do not build up and vent to atmosphere.
  15. TrevC
    I agree with Steve...I drive a Honda which I bought on the basis that it is one of the most reliable vehicles in existence. However, I think Lexus is a most worthy competitor to Honda and may eventually end up overtaking them in the reliability tables that are published every year. Each vehicle is different in the way it has been looked after and driven...it really is a case of having it thoroughly checked over before buying.
  16. TrevC
    You could try gently tapping it with a spanner or something similar to break the taper...alternatively, it may require a small puller to separate. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwinscreen+wiper+blade+puller.TRS0&_nkw=winscreen+wiper+blade+puller&_sacat=0
  17. TrevC
    Hi Matthew...welcome to the Forum I'm sure someone on here will know the exact solution but if it's any consolation, it's a positive thing that the door is open as opposed to locked in the closed position as you can still access the mechanism and remove the door card easily. I'm sure it's some linkage dropped off or broken but I'll let the experience of others guide you to the solution. Regards Trevor
  18. TrevC
    I've used it for many years without problems however, they do state that it is a temporary solution but this was imposed on the manufacturers by the tyre companies to avoid any claims for any failures, etc. The only problem you may find (but this will be instantly noticeable) is that sometimes (very rarely) is a slight imbalance as the Slime throws out centrifugally and doesn't adhere to the inside casing of the tyre....but only encountered that once on a Dunlop tyre. Otherwise, I've never known any problems with using Slime for an extended duration or high speed (use it in my motorcycle for huge cross-continent trips) and also never had a puncture :-)
  19. TrevC
    It could be a case of taking it for a blast to clear out the engine. Keep it at relatively high revs to ensure its running clear.
  20. TrevC
    Hi Shiela...welcome to the Forum I have found with porous rims/tyres by filling them with 'Slime' it cures it permanently. Here is a link from eBay (UK) but it might be available in the States under a different name. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SLIME-AUTO-TYRE-SEALANT-FOR-CARS-VANS-PREVENTS-REPAIRS-PUNCTURES-473-ML-/122263771366?hash=item1c777d18e6:g:C2QAAOSwJ7RYS~Vp I've used it for years in Motorcycles, Campervan, Cars and never had a problem with punctures or loss of air. Cheers Trevor
  21. TrevC
    Hi Jenna...welcome to the Forum I would suggest replacing the oil next time it is due with an oil of equal quality (such as Castrol, Mobil 1 or similar). As long as the oil specification is right then the rule of thumb is if you love your car then fit the best you can within your budget! Let us know how you get on with this Cheers Trevor
  22. TrevC
    Hi David...welcome to the Forum Also, congratulations on the purchase of your new Lexus...a great car indeed! The section you have posted in is the correct one for a 2017 model as it is to the present day and specifically, the latest generation model of RX. Regards, Trevor
  23. TrevC
    I would ask them to perform a cylinder leak down test which would confirm if the air is escaping past the rings, valves or through the coolant
  24. TrevC
    Low compression on three of the cylinders would almost certainly confirm bent valves or a problem with pistons/bores. The belt may have shredded a tooth or two at the crankshaft pulley which to all intentions looks like the belt is still intact but this is common on engines when starting up. Good luck with it all and keep us informed of the progress. Cheers Trevor
  25. TrevC
    Hi NIck...welcome to the Forum I think it may be a whole load of trouble to swap units with compatible electronics without recoding. Don't know what other members think...anyone done this swap before? Cheers Trevor
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership
  • Unread Content
    •
  • Members Gallery
    •