TrevC

Hi Paul....welcome to the Forum Just an idea but if you tested the solenoid with voltage and it worked then could it be poor wiring or connection to the solenoid? Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Tarik...welcome to the Forum I would suggest that it is the caliper seizing as it will probably only occur when it gets hot and then releases when it cools down. Also, the pads could be seized in the carrier (where they are supposed to float in and out) and if you remove them to check, clean and refit. If it was the master cylinder then it would probably occur on the N/S/R wheel as well as this would be linked by a dual line braking circuit. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Daniel...welcome to the Forum Does the car get a chance to clear out at high revs for a period or is it just smoked around town? Only reason I ask this is because it sounds like it is clogging up and in need of a clear out to rectify the faults. Let us know how you get on with this, Cheers Trevor

Hi Byron....welcome to the Forum I would recommend that if it cures itself once its had time to dry out then it is a case of water ingress into the electrical system...if it makes no difference then its clearly a coincidence. Once you have determine which it is, then that makes it easier to diagnose where the water could be entering the connections that are vulnerable and you can apply Vaseline to keep the moisture out. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Paul...welcome to the Forum and also to the wonderful world of Lexus ! Sorry, not sure what particular wax to recommend but I'm sure there are some members out there that have a preference. Cheers Trevor

Hi Rick...welcome to the Forum It does sound like a vacuum leak if the temperature is controlled by vacuum. Usually, vacuum leaks can be traced by running a combustible gas (in very small quantity...e.g. small gas torch on low setting or Brake Cleaner) around the suspected areas with the engine running at idle and if the speed increases slightly then it is drawing in the gas and combusting it, then you know where the leak is. Another method is to use a Smoke Generator which does just what it says and you introduce the smoke into the vacuum lines with the engine off and see where it comes out...simple, but not cheap to purchase. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

Sometimes, the increase in horsepower is only a proportion of the remap benefits, other benefits are the improved torque curve allowing more flexibility in gears and beneficial for towing. Also economy gains are made by remapping and sometimes emissions can be cleaned up too.

Hi Rahim...welcome to the Forum It sounds like an amplifier issue, not too au-fait with Lexus audio systems but if there is an external amplifier there may be a connectivity issue. Can any other members shed any light on this issue? Cheers Trevor

Hi Jeff...welcome to the Forum and also to the world of Hybrids ! Keep us updated on your experiences with your RX...thinking of getting one myself so definitely interested in how you find it over time. Regards Trevor

The extended duration could be a crack in the ring which is longer between the teeth (much like a missing tooth on a flywheel or crank sensor) and if you can separate the ring from the end of the driveshaft and source another ring (eBay) it is just a case of removing the old one and fitting the new one.

Hi Eric...welcome to the club As you say, they are probably for the washer pump but maybe also an ambient air temperature sensor possibly. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the club Possibly there may be a fuse within the engine bay that supplies power to the internal fusebox and may have one for the low beam...worth checking I suppose. Sorry it's a bit of a vague answer but I don't have any wiring diagrams to hand. Let us know how you get on finding the fault Cheers Trevor

I agree with Billy...sounds like a wiring issue. Always worth trying the 'wiggle test' which is to wiggle the wires and see if the bulbs illuminate and then you know it is a loose connection or broken wire.

Hi Salah...welcome to the Forum I would suggest that something has changed recently to invoke the Check lamp, how long after the cambelt change has this fault occurred? Has anything changed with the fuel...same brand? Driving styles or distances changed, driving over speed bumps? Generally, errors very rarely occur overnight without some warning or external influences being applied and sometimes it easier to find by working out what has changed over a short period before diving into replacing components. Let us know what you come up with. Maybe worth a second opinion? Cheers Trevor

Hi Paul It's worth looking at as sometimes faults can manifest from other areas within the car due to noise being generated from other components. Its certainly worth you looking into the aforementioned thread Kurt. I think I have also had my feelings removed over the years, but that was by two ex-wives ! Cheers Trevor

If the resistances are the same then they sensors should be good unless there is a break in the wire as you say. The other thing worth checking is the reluctor ring/toothed rotor as this may be cracked or badly corroded...equally, there may be a build up of debris over it or the sensor itself. It is especially the case with AWD and particularly on the new GEN2 and GEN3 wheel sensors that all rolling diameters are the same...e.g. flat or worn tyres, etc. as this will throw all manner of problems up with transmission and steering/suspension settings. Let us know how you get on with your additional checks Cheers Trevor

Hi Kurt...welcome to the Club Great waveform screenshots! Good DSO software to capture it all so clearly, most aren't as clear. The fact that you have sensor output is the important thing...I think the scope would be better with shielded leads as it looks like a whole load of noise being picked up as you say (especially if you are in the vicinity of a metal garage door acting as an aerial, etc). However, the important thing for a passive analogue sensor is for it to generate an on/off signal for comparison with the other sensors to calculate the individual wheel speeds, which is what is occurring in normal operation. One thing I would check is the rolling diameter of each wheel...tyre pressures, tyre wear across the axles, tyre sizes being the same. If any of these are out slightly that can cause the symptoms you describe. Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor

Hi Josh....welcome to the Forum Wow! that seems like a lot of money...in the United Kingdom we usually see this year and mileage car go for around £2000 maximum, but in the US I've no idea what the car would be worth. I suppose it's as the old saying goes 'its only worth what someone will pay for it' However, if it is incredibly well looked after and it has full dealer service history then it may be worth somewhere near what they're asking but i would still haggle over the price quite a bit and see how much they'll knock off it. Cheers Trevor

You could look at the rear wheel geometry as had this problem on one of my cars recently which was doing the same...turned out the rear wheel geometry was out and was leading it to crab along the road. Worth checking.

Hi Mario....welcome to the Forum It may be that you will need to manually remove the fault codes but otherwise it could be electrical connectors or wiring that are at fault...worth checking further. Here are some links that may shine some light on the fault.. http://www.engine-codes.com/p1135_toyota.html http://www.engine-codes.com/p1155_toyota.html Let us know how you progress with it. Cheers Trevor

Hi Dmitri...welcome to the Forum Starters are one of those components that naturally fail after many thousands of times being engaged and is quite understandable really. Batteries only generally have a maximum lifespan of around 5 years, so again understandable. Alternators should keep going (apart from moderate wear on the brushes and bearings) indefinitely unless polarity is reversed. However, 13.3 volts is within the operating range (usually 12.4 to 13.8 volts) so I would definitely have it checked again before condemning. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Kurtis....welcome to the Forum The car looks superb with very little damage in my estimation, I definitely think it's worth a punt. I would however. carry out a wheel alignment/geometry check as the O/S/F wheel I'm sure would have sustained some sort of impact which could have bent a suspension arm or link. Let us know if you go for it Cheers Trevor

Hi Jonathan....welcome to the Forum I would imagine that if you have condensation in the light unit then there could very well be corrosion on the bulb and connector which could result in the light coming on and going out intermittently as the connection makes and breaks. Just a thought! Hope you find a solution soon Cheers Trevor

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum Wow! that is a huge amount of money for a driveshaft ! I know it doesn't help much in locating cheaper parts but in the UK we tend to remove the rear wheel drive part of the system on many AWD vehicles to avoid spending out huge amounts of cash for something that isn't needed....(very rarely need 4WD in the UK as the weather doesn't get that bad). Hope you find some cheaper parts Cheers Trevor

That's a beautiful looking car Scott.....very envious !