TrevC

It sounds like you probably shorted out some of the electrics when you removed the stereo. I would start by checking the fuses for the systems that are not working. Good luck

Hi Connie...welcome to the Forum I would say that no condensation is good anywhere in the car but least of all in the lights themselves. If (like here in the UK) it rains constantly then water does tend to seep into virtually everywhere in the car and headlamps are no exception. Combine that with condensation that is produced by the cold ambient temperature and the heat from the bulbs the other side of the lens, then it is usually normal (but unacceptable) to have moisture inside lights. Looking at the rear lamps, it is marginal and shouldn't cause too much in the way of damage through corrosion, however, the headlamps seem to have a huge amount of water inside them and this isn't good for the reflectors (which can dull over time with being exposed to moisture) and also the bulb and electrical connections. I would advise look at where the water may be getting in and resealling the lens to the headlamp body....or replace them for new/newer units. Let us know how you get on with this. Cheers Trevor

Hi David...welcome to the Forum I'm not entirely sure if you can raise the base idle speed electronically through the OBD port but if not, then I suggest looking for vacuum leaks and alternatively running some cleaner through the engine to clear out the carbon build-up and giving the engine a good blast...tends to cure it. Let us know how you progress with this problem Cheers Trevor

Yes, that would definitely make a difference as the air is no longer being directed through the radiator. See if refitting improves the situation

Hi Rich...welcome to the Forum Unfortunately, this post got missed for responses but thanks for providing some information about the system operation. I recently road-tested an RX200t which by default would be in ECO and changed into SPORT mode when you put your foot down or if you manually switched it into SPORT. Otherwise, extra-urban driving was defaulted to the NORMAL setting, occasionally dropping into ECO when conditions allowed. I found the engine performance and transmission shifting to be punchy and precise but fuel economy was a little disappointing, hindered by the fact that the car had AWD which it really didn't need and would definitely have improved the economy without it. Cheers Trevor

Sorry Walt I was referring to Johnnie2's post for codes. Your fault codes all relate to the transmission but equally if the engine management light is on there could be a common link. ANYONE ELSE SEEN THIS FAULT BEFORE????

Hi Jake Sounds like the idle control system is gummed up with carbon in the intake manifold. Also check for vacuum leaks on hoses, etc. Would suggest trying some intake cleaner in the engine. We have a treatment called Terraclean in the UK which consists of running cleaning solution throughout the engine and results in totally restoring idle speed, economy, performance, etc. Not sure if there is anything like it in the US? If not there should be lots of different types of cleaning solutions on eBay. Cheers Trevor

Difficult one to diagnose without codes unfortunately....probably best to get a second opinion to make sure I guess.

Hi Ray....welcome to the Forum Have you tried a big hammer? only joking! I have had this issue before and removed them by taking the (already faulty) unit out and taken the cover off. Once inside it was case of rolling the eject mechanism by hand to eject each one in turn....you'll see how it works once you fiddle with a couple of levers, etc Let us know how you get on with it...and maybe post up a photo of the insides if you like? Cheers Trevor

Hi Brint...welcome to the Forum I would imagine this is a function that can easily be programmed out of the car...check with you local dealer or specialist to see if they can 'switch it off' Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

What symptoms are you experiencing, e.g. driveability, etc or is it just the VSC light coming on? Are there any other lights coming on also?

It sounds like the remote key fob is at fault if it is not disabling the alarm system Would first check the fob battery and replace it necessary, then try a vehicle battery reset while synchronising the fob at the same time.

Hi Robin...welcome to the Forum Have you tried a different brand of coil as the replacment one may be defective? Alternatively, it could be spark plugs in addition to the coil that has failed. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi If the Mufflers were blocked it would severely restrict the power from the engine but it could also lead to overheating also. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi and welcome to the Forum I would probably bite the bullet and go for an OE sensor. I used to fit aftermarket sensors and always used to have issues with them so had to replace them with OE in the end. Just not worth the hassle Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi, and welcome to the Forum I would advise removing the head unit from the dash for external examination and see if you can spot anything obvious with wiring, etc if not then pull it apart to check...what have you got to lose, if it doesn't already work? Let us know how you get on with it all Cheers Trevor

It may be a case of resetting the SRS system for the vehicle then to be driven....that would need to done through a diagnostic system. The alternative may be, a fuel safety shut-off valve (inertia switch) located somewhere on the bulkhead in the engine bay (usually).

That is a likely cause....maybe run an earth lead to the socket and see if that cures it

Happy New Year to you also.

Hi Steven....welcome to the Forum The judder would only be from the brake rotors if the brakes are applied...if the judder is there without the brakes being applied then it is more than likely to be a wheel imbalance which is easy to rectify by balancing the wheels (cheap job). I shall let others that are more knowledgeable specifically about the RX350 answer your other questions. Keep us updated with your progress. Cheers Trevor

The Gotthard Pass in Switzerland...now that's one I want to take the bike or sportscar down (and up)

It sounds like it is backfeeding the vehicle electrical system....need a better charger with diode protection in it

Sure is a lovely road with all the necessary twists and turns....got loads like this in Europe :-)

Hi Jaime...welcome to the Forum I agree with gbhrps its certainly worth getting it professionally checked first as it may be something quite simple and may not need expensive parts fitting. Let us know how this goes...be nice to know the outcome Cheers Trevor

You could check the brake light switch is actually working...I believe there is a pad that drops off the pedal therefore not allowing the switch to be activated when the pedal is pressed...worth checking at least