AWJ

Summit - They have redline, royal purple and mobil - probably whatever else you need too. Don't recall the website, I always call in my orders to them. Search summit on google. Speaking of wich, if anyone needs some redline 5-30 motor oil, I have 6 quarts. I can't run it in my car because it is just too thin and it gets thrown out of my distributor on boost. Too many oil leaks.

I don't see how, the voltage and current to the computer should remain the same. The larger alternator just supports more load. Or I'm wrong and it puts out more current, then potentially, it could be bad but I would think there are plenty of guards in place. Regardless, if you want a larger alternator and the computer takes a certain max input, just put a fuse before it on the power line - or step down in line with it. You should consult a reputable stereo shop, who did the install on your current ICE and toys? I can't believe all this stuff would be installed and load consideration never played out.

My condolences - I've been there. Lost my car though when it happened. The 97+ parts will fit. Sadistic makes good suggestions. Glad you are okay. It is always hard to deal with this stuff happening to our pride car.

Give me a couple days for a procedure on that. But if you remove the shroud on the steering coloumn secured by philips screws, you will be able to see the mechanical assy and go from there. Many times, it is merely dirt and old grease that causes a failure. Remove the parts, clean them, use a quality grease and reassemble. Should work after that.

You can order it from Summit. Or any other online gear oil distributor.

Sorry man. Doesn't exist. Save yourself the trouble. GTP. You'll get good service from them, not. Enjoy the hood though if that is what you want. Just remember, you get what you pay for. 300 bones for a carbon fiber hood.... RUN - don't walk away.

I'll look it up sometime over the next couple days. I'm painting house - very busy.

I know the alternator from PHR (should be available through MVP Motorsports - tell him Lurks from team Solo sent you) will work on the 300. Should work on the 400 to with at most a little creativity. Any good sound shop should be able to rewind or find an upgrade alternator for you though.

I have two front calipers for the stock SC3 brakes with lines and all with 65,000 on them. They worked just fine when I took them off. But the passenger side one needs a piston put back in it. I've got all the parts. Make and offer if you need them. They are heavy though - shipping would be tall. But we can do cheaper than dealer. Otherwise, you can try and take it apart and see where it's binding and turn the shaft down or something.

Agreed. I love road trips in these things.

No problem. Use a quality filter for the car. Toyota or wix or something like those. The SC400 location is on the lower front driver side of the motor. Never looked at the 4.3 up close. Get under there and look - surely you'll find it.

Maintenance on any car is expensive if you keep up with it. This one is a little more. But as was mentioned earlier, the quality is top notch. If you keep up on oil changes and drop an air filter in there every 15k or so; you will be right on track. Most SC430 drivers I've come across shed the run flats around 15k. They also go to traditional style radials on the stock rims or other aftermarket 18's. The sensors can be switch by anyone who is clever enough. Try import specialty shops like JPI and steer clear of dealerships. When you get oil changes, go to those kinds of shops and pay a little extra over the Jiffy Lube. Ten bucks extra here or there will get it the kind of care where the tech will say - Hey your tires are wearing on the inside, you should do an alignment and camber. Rotate your tires. The next big service is 60k, 80k and 120k. Change the oxygen sensors at 80k and take care of it. It will run a million miles. Enjoy the car. No big deal. Do be careful in the snow though and even heavy rain. They love to step out. Mine does at least. Even when it's dry. But that's a different story.

I don't trust anything online anymore. People normally use escrow accounts when they buy things like a house. An initial negotiated sum of money will go into an escrow account as good faith on buyer so the seller/contractor will build. Then the mortgage company carries an escrow depending on how it gets set up. Frankly, if you're not willing to fly to where the engine is to inspect and visually watch it get shipped or go get yourself, you shouldn't be buying it. Way too easy to get ripped. Or do COD if you really want it and are willing to risk it. That way, they'll have to send you a motor and if you don't want it, you are only out the cost of shipping it back to him.

Very good ideas up above. In my '93 - the lighter lost it's ground under hard braking and threw the fuse - killed the entire dash. Check the ground off your cigarette lighter. Replace the fuses. That will help your power loss at the radio/dash when you hit the brakes. As far as dimming accessories when the bass hits - well - no real way around that except a bigger alternator and or capacitors.

To hard to diagnose without being there. I'd start by looking for anything loose.

I have no problems with mine.

DTC #27 (1) Open or short in heater circuit of sub heated oxygen sensor for .5sec or more. Open or short in heater of sub heated oxygen sensor Sub heated oxygen sensor ECM (2) Main heated oxygen sensor signal is .45v or more and sub heated oxygen sensor signal is .45v or less under the following conditions: (two trip detection logic) Engine coolant temp. : 80*C (176*F) or more Accel pedal fully depressed for 2sec. or more Look up same list I'd replace all sensors. The universal should be fine but you should check to be sure. Just pull the old one off and get a number or compare the leads to the universal. Make sure they wire up the same. NGK makes some of the most reliable sensors is what I've read. Looks like you've got two sub's - right and left just behind the catalytic converters. They plug in through the floor boards. You have two mains as well. Right and left. They should be in the exahuast manifold area most likely under a heat shield or something. Can't quite tell by this picture. Just look around tracing the exhaust off the head and you'll find them.

cam seals are most likely fine unless it's leaking oil out the front or back of the head. If you don't put the distributor back in the same, it will mess up timing. You can mark the position with a paint pen or punch.

Yea - we build turbo cars here friend. Teenage boy racer types or not. Now that I think of it, I've never seen a teenage racerboy types with a turbo lexus. Just adult drivers with a fast car. Wanna race? werd...

They pay at least 2$ a liter in Europe for gas. Maybe our excess is catching up with us. I got that May 19th, don't buy gas spam mail. I would like to see everyone not buy gas that day. It would show the ability of the people to coordinate and demonstrate. I'll be really suprised if no one buys gas that day. It's just not realistic. They say one day of us not buying gas would hit the industry for 4.6 billion or something like that and bring them to a grinding halt in the e-mail. That's just not realistic either. The fact of the matter is, we are going to pay more for gas. I wish the effort people put in to all this would be put in to other areas of the United States and their own jobs even. This place might be better for it. Just my 2 cents. Oh, I won't buy gas May 19 though. But I'm sure my neighbors will. What would be a much better demonstration is if no one drove May 19th. But we won't see that. If everyone just stayed home, or wherever they were for 24 hours. No deliveries, no deadlines met, no real estate deals, no factory production, no airplane flights, no taxi rides, no pizza deliveries, no car racing, no 4 wheeling....... Walk, bicycle, run, play sports - just chill. Call in sick - walk to the beach - do yardwork yaddda yaddddda yaddda That would cost money. But still, the only hit is on the Americn GDP wich only hurts ourselves. Not OPEC. There are severe economic factors in play. Anyone who wants to beat it has to understand it. I don't think anyone truly understands it. It's like mother nature. It's all good till you get slammed with a tornado. This is the equivalent economic *BLEEP* storm.

You need to find out why it blew first. I thought you were low compression? What happened?

Doobie... <_< Surfs the net with me. This cat let us move in a year and a half ago. We haven't left yet.

Ok gentlemen. Let's see if this works. Hope you have bit torrent tracker. Otherwise hit google and get edumacted. Good luck. Let me know if it works. http://my5minutes.com/index.php?cat=12295 Enjoy. Had to change it. But it works.

Yea - it's a fried link. I have an account at my5minutes.com . If I can figure out how to do the bit torrent upload, I will upload the .wmv there and provide the link to go get it. But, you will need to register there in order to DL. Also, you will need to have a bit torrent tracker installed. I'll see what I can do. It's about 9 minutes long - it should fit.

Just quoting the factory service manual on that. If the changeover is successful and all precautions are taken, I'm glad to hear it works out.