AWJ

Not sure if they are cheaper. But they always treat me right when I need stuff. Usually offer competitive, if not better prices. Tell him I sent ya.

Thanks Theodore... much obliged.

That is correct. I'm going to bump this over to the GS forum in case anyone has any further advice. Frankly, 150$ isn't too bad. But it is cheaper to do it yourself. Good luck.

There is a TRD shift knob people are using. Also, I've seen the mr2 shift knob put on there. Looks fine to me. Or you could try the oem replacement if you can locate one. That would be best IMO. I need to replace mine too. Just haven't got around to it.

By button, I meant rotor. The directions you got off mkiv will work as long as they are for the na motor wich I think they have on there too. It won't hurt to replace the gaskets but it is not necessary. Plenty have done it without replacing them. I'd say just troubleshoot from there. Hard to give advice without being there. As far as the diag procedure - I think you are just supposed to turn the key to the on position and not actually start the car. I need to check though. Louisville is not bad - been there a few times. We should arrange a meet in the future with the other guys. Check the meets forum - I post up info on occasion. We just had a supra meet and charity car show in Cincy. With all the bad stuff happening in Cincy though - I don't think I'll be back. Acutally have an opportunity to relocate to Florida in the works, although I should not be talking about it yet.

Shoot.... I thought you mean it wouldn't turn over... You have a new cap. Next is button - then wires, plugs, coil, - do you know when the last major service was and what was done? Chances are, the maf is ok if it is not throwing a code. Do a full 80k tune up. You might still have water in #6 boot - the worst place to get it. Are you in Louisville, KY? Have the dealer check the vin for the last service - if it was ever serviced at a delear, they can tell you when where and what. That will give a good starting point. The problem could be anything. Are you sure you ran the diag procedure correctly?

A brake job is easy to do if you know what you are doing. I suspect you may not have done this before? If so - forgive me. Otherwise, I highly recommend you have someone with you that knows how to do a basic brake job just to help you out. That or take it to a mechanic you trust. Maybe he will let you work with him, but I doubt it. If you plan to do work on your vehicle you should always purchase the factory service manuals. They are worth their weight in gold. I find myself repeating this too often. These books are much more reliable than any fool you meet on the internet. Not that we are fools here... ;) The only way to know for sure if you need a brake job is to inspect the pads and rotors. Take the wheels off. Check the thickness of the pad. You can see it without removing anything else. Heck, you might be able to see it without taking off the wheel - I can on mine. If it is 5mm thick or less they need to be replaced I'd say - not looking at my books now. So don't hold me too it. That might be way too thin. The rotors have a thickness spec. too. They can be resurfaced once - but I replace them. Just cuz. Find pads almost anywhere. Our approved vendors are the best though. You will probably want clips, shims, and anti-squeal grease (wich might be the reason you brakes make noise now). The only place I know of to get those is the dealer.

You have 1 coil. Chances are you got water in the distributor or the spark plug boots. If it's just your distributor, then take the cap off and dry it all up real good. You will need to remove the intake manifold if the second is true. This is the only way to get in there. Then pull the boots off the plugs. Blow some compressed air in there or figure a way to dry it up. If the air meter had a problem - the car "should" still start at least. Might not run very well. Next time, wash the motor while it is running and be very carefull around the spark plug area and any other area with wires for that matter. I put a plastic bag on the distributor and any fuse boxes and try not to hit any wires with direct water. Don't shut it off again until it is dry. Take it for a drive first or something.

Scroll down to file attachments, click browse, locate the img on your computer. It will need to be 100k .jpg of .gif or smaller. That will upload a clickable link. Or you can put it in the SC gallery by clicking the gallery link at the top right in the site header. Select the SC forums. Click upload in that header. Browse again. Select the one you want. The upload sequence will take care of the rest unless your firewall is set to not allow it. Then disable it. After it uploads you can take the img link from the properties and select the img button in the code buttons on the reply screen and paste it in there. Then your image will come out viewable. I might put this in the faq. Welcome to the club, great car!

I'll see what I can dig up. Give me a couple days though. Unless someone else has the info.

Theodore, if you don't mind, post this in the faq. Copy and paste is fine. Or I can do it if you want - just figured you'd get more credit if you do it on your handle. I don't want to move this whole post - or split it. Might get a little cluttered or confusing. Great idea Sadisitic. Always welcome the input.

That link refers to an IS. Not SC. I have heard nothing of any SC GT. There was a concept car that was a hybrid. It will never see production in that form. I forgot what they called it. It was shown at IAS or the Auto show or something. I like how that linked thread says Lexus is Euro wanna-be. Funny.

Enjoy the tunes! B)

I've not noticed my key getting hot to the touch. I would start by checking ground connections. Aside from that, not sure what to tell you. Keep an eye on it, possible a quality electronics shop can help you a little more. That is a new one to me.

I've kept my rear brakes stock and haven't had a problem of yet. I would recommend replacing both rear rotors. They are thinner and smaller. It is very possible either your rotor there is warped or like you said, the caliper is acting up on you. As far as brake upgrades, the supra TT stock brakes will bolt right in and very significantly increase the braking ability for much less than 3g's. I think that is the best way to go as far as brake upgrades. Otherwise, your looking at money. But Brembo, Wilowood, and Baer offer applications as well. I run Centric brand Sumitomo rotors. OEM spec. in back and they do great. Watch the torque on the wheels when you put them back on. Shops will just tighten the heck out of those wheels and that warps rotors fast. 75 ft lbs is adequate. I couldn't get my rear wheel off after the body shop had removed it to do some work. Had to take it to a shop with an impact to loosen the lugs for me. All the other wheels came off just fine because I had torqued them myself. I change wheels often though. Good luck.

Post for user: rgenender rgender, you must have mistakenly pressed the "report this post to moderator" button. Without seeing your tires, I can only guess. Your tires and wheels are the original I take it. The runflat tires wear out fast based on accounts from other owners. It is possible the car has an alignment issue. Just be sure to maintain proper pressures and possibly rotate the tires more frequently as long as they are all the same size and have bidirectional tread. Otherwise, you can change to more traditional tires and see how that does. Never hurts to get a second opinion from a non dealer source that has good alignment equipment. Good luck.

Sounds like a good time.

You can also list it in our Buy/Sell forum... Autotrader is ideal... Watch out for fake cashiers and business checks...

Scale the picture, in mspaint. Shrink it 90% and you can attach it in the reply section via the browse button. Or PM me and I can look at it. Be forwarned though, a picture is not going to show much. The only way to know is to really see it in person and drive it.

Most of the XZZ3X models in the US are leather. I wouldn't even want cloth. Although it would lower the price and they could be recovered easily. The cloth models don't have a moonroof either I don't think.

Sadistic - have you spoken to MrSypher on our boards? He is getting me some work wheels at discount. Not to say bean is not worthy, just another option.

Don't sweat it man. Nothing happened. All is well that ends well. Funny you mention this. I just read an article in Motor Trend on tires. The test drivers for tire companies were interview. Most of them are engineers. Anyways, long story short. They all agree, they would rather to have 5 pounds over, on every tire of course, than 3 pounds under manufacturer specification. Of coures, 49 on one and 23 on the others is like asking for an accident. Glad you made it ok.

click this please

Actually, they are very normal. The SC heat shields on the exhaust expand and contract louder than any other car I've noticed. My 1993 would clikc and ting just like that after I turned it off. Just the same as several others I have been across. Remove the heat sheilds and it won't do it anymore. My 95 has a full exhaust system with no shields except the ones mounted to the body and off the pipes and mufflers. The cooling fan on the SC is not electric. Two possibilities on the brakes: a) the dealer did not put anit squeal grease between the shims and pads when the job was done. This will result is loud and annoying squealing brakes. Happens alot of times when the grease ain't there. Happened to me until I started doing my own brakes. b ) the pads need to be replaced and the wear indicators are hitting the rotors. If you know how to inspect the pads you can take the wheels off and have a look see. Otherwise, you could have it checked out. Wouldn't be a bad idea to be on the safe side.

That price is a little steep man. 14 g's might be more like it for a full GTE swap and single turbo with dyno time. Yes, you should put the car up on a dyno for tuning by a professional no matter what route you take. Sounds like you need to do more research though. Looks like you could get ripped off if you are not careful. Check the FAQ please. If you have more questions after that, please feel free.