AWJ

+18 in back is nearly impossible. Do you have a widebody kit? A 275 wide on an 18"*10 will rub at +30. Even+22 is no where near enough. If that's your offset, it's a bumpy ride. SC430 knob requires modification of the knob to retain the button and or threaded shaft or insert or the knob mounting. LL's wood was done by a quality woodworker local to him - unless that is changed. I'm sure he'll come by to let you know though.

mmmm yea... Black on black - black - real black.... and scratchy This winter it will be glass black - real glassy ... yea

The stuff is really easy to fix yourself - if you have done that kind of stuff before. Otherwise, find a good mechanic somewhere else. The valve cover seal is a 300$ job max just cuz you need to pull the intake manifold. The distributor seal job should be another 100$ max if you get it done at the same time because they are already there. The main seal is a little more of a problem and will be expensive - that price sounds about right if it is really needed. But get three or four opinions on it. Motor mounts, I highly doubt you need them. But those will cost new. If you are not familiar with these issues - you could buy it and learn. Or stay away from it. It really doesn't sound to be to bad off, but I'm not there so don't let me tell you what to do. Maybe try to get them to come down a little since there are so many "problems" with it. Good luck.

If you are good with tools, you can make anything. Or take it to a fab shop and tell them what you want. It would be best to have the inserts out already. That's the only way to get a non-stick on replacement unless you buy new ones or someone else's.

No way. Mine is too. Welcome to the club. nice car man.

You could always make 'em.

It is definitely light. That's for sure. I think it will hold up if that's what you're asking.

Car is in the body shop right now. That and it's raining cats and dogs. Been that way all day. Anyways, car will be back Wednesday. I have two events to attend this weekend and I will snap up some photos at that point.

Everything I've seen is stick on. Sorry man.

I got it man. Thanks.

5 or 6

I only did it on my 93 - no pictures of it way back when. You can do it on the bottom side towards where the clear meets the backing or on the top. Use the smallest drill bit you can find. Just don't go through a place that is obvious.

I find drilling real small holes in un noticeable places works best. Tried resealing them without much luck.

The sky is the limit my man. 65$ an hour is a cheap hourly specialty labor rate. It can go up to 100$ an hour. I try to do my own work. Got some real tricks up my sleave now.

It can be done. I think the six speed has been done too. A company out of australia sells adapters. I linked to it once. Don't remember the name though.

No sorry. Keep trying bud. You will come across it eventually. I know there are other places that have them. Try our vendors - then there was another site. I can't remember it now though.

No hood pins. But a lot of drilling, dremeling, and tapping. Now that it's on, I'm a little less disappointed. Here is the clearance hole Masubi was talking about that needed to be put in. I have to thank you for bringing that up Masubi. I did not even notice until you said something. Notice the oem 12mm bolts are used in the hinge now. The bolts they send with it are crap. That was no small feat making that work.

Clean your lenses and use a contact cleaner on your plugs. New bulbs, fuses, relays. Degraded wiring is very possible though. New harness? Ouch...

Sorry guys. Got carried away last night. Didn't take pictures of the modifications I had to make to the hood. I did get it mounted and then took the car out for a spin. The hood does not flex at triple digits. I guess it is fairly solid. Solid enough at least. Still general surface quality issues. I will probably have it clear coated either this weekend or this winter when the car gets a repaint. I'll try to put some pictures up tonight. At work now - go to go rebuild an injection molding machine barrel screw tip assy.

Both my current and last 2jz car click like a mexican hat dance.

You can get it on e-bay usually. Emerald is a very buisy person. Don't know if she even still has her SC.

It should be just two 12 or 14 mm bolts on the floating portion. You only need to remove 1 and flip it up. To get the pisons back, you should open the bleeder slightly and push back on the old pads until they retract a little. Then close the bleeder asap. Try not to get air back in the line. Good luck. I'll try and snap a pic of my old ones in the garage.

Basically, you get what you pay for. As far as the hood is concerned - if you really want a cf hood - this is not the best one. It can be modified to do the job though. It has poor quality all over it though. For 350$ though - that's what you get I guess. My main problem is with GTP/Importfan - itself. They are horrible to do business with. I would not recommend this hood - but it would probably get show points once it is treated with a little clear coat and modified to fit correctly. If any surface defects are covered by a good body guy. You will wind up spending a lot of money to get it to work (correctly) though; unless you can figure it out yourself. I got about halfway there. I found the clearance item Masubi was talking about and used a dremel to cut them out after drilling a pilot. I'm just not impressed overall - I guess I should have expected this though - this is the first big body item I've ever worked with for my car from the beginning. I had a street fighter kit I put on a Del Sol way back in the day - but someone else did the work. I took it off and put it on several times afterwards, but never realized all the hassle with making this ish fit. After I get done - hood should be mounted tonight, I will take pictures of the mounting and all the mods I had to make to it. All I can say is, if you want the hood - just be ready for trouble. I have no idea how well this thing will work on the car at high speed. If I see it lifting and flexing at highway speed, it comes off. It would probably be okay for a show car - if it was dressed right. So Calvin - I don't recommend the hood - but it's your call in the end. I don't like it much. Some people say they do like it. My bigger issue is the service from GTP. Wich I'm beginning to think is not just GTP. Either way, I'll never buy from them again. I will probably never buy another aftermarket body component either. The other posts pretty much sum up the general consensus of the market today. If that is what you want to deal with, and you can be patient, well - it's your call.

You should buy the manual directly from Phil. He did the hard work for you to follow if you choose to do so. There are no other copies. His site is linked in the faq. Good luck. You will need to use the clutch from the 5 speed as the TT clutch is different and only works on the 6 speed. Not sure about the flywheel. I would think you can use either.

At the speeds my car see's this hood needs the correct bolts to secure at the hinge. I am no way - going to attempt to use this hood with 10mm low grade bolts. I had to drill and tap them out. Just finished that today, and much more than 20 minutes. Two of the aluminum inserts nearly pulled out. I was able to reinforce them with two part epoxy and a night of curing, then re tapping very slowly and gently. All said, now I have 4, high quality mount points for my hinge. I still have the pin holes. Tried to fill them with black locktite - can't recall the number on it. Decent stuff. I'm going to see if my body guy can give me any advice on Saturday when the car goes in for a little bit of attention unrelated to the hood. The washer nozzles took 2 hours each. The top surface is somewhat presentable to any eye that does not know any better. That's it. The bottom surface is rolled - but cracked - very obvious demolding issues. Not autoclave. If I knew what I know now when I bought this hood - well, I wouldn't have bought it. Hey masubi, what hood stop clearance are talking about? Can you post a picture?