mburnickas

Mobil EP should be able to go 15K no problem. I would test at like 10 to 12K just do do the normal baselines. What is funny is the people that don't buy extended drains are the very ones that do not pull UOA or understand oils. Not knocking, people but the 3 to 5K drains are a total joke. I have done longer drains for years, as the UOA show it (amsoil) can go much longer then what I do; even in a sludge prone engine.

Sorry, see above.

Again, my oil testing house states other then 87 is a waste. I add Fp3000 to my fuel and gives it more BTU's, burns cleaner, added needed lubricity due to ethanol in gas and more MPG. For me, it is nothing to do with being cheaper. It comes down to doing the samething better/less cost. I use FP3000 in fuel to regular fuel (87) and it cost me $0.50 a tank to add (no knocking in any car). A 93 octane would over $4 to $7 and not get the same benefits as the lower fuel with additive (and gets small pinging in another car I own).

Even if you disconnect the bat terminals, the code will remain in the ECS for 40 starts (you just do not see it). After that, if okay, it will be erased from the ECS memory.

if you put in oil, you need to change in like 20 minutes.

I have had better cleaning power using Amsoil Power Foam Engine Cleaner & Degreaser then seafoam. In fact, I was amazed since I love seafoam.

The high mileage oils I do not think are needed. They have seal swealers in them that might be covering leaks but that is me. I also like Amsoil, be using it for years but recently switched from the 5w-30 to there 0w-20. All I can say is wow. More power, smoother and more mpg. It will be better in colder and warmer places due to fluid properties.

Kendall dino in place of a synthetic??? Find a new mechanic......fast. If you use a real synthetic oil (grp 4 or 5) you will NOT have sludge. I am doing 10 to 12,000 miles drains for years in my sludge prone ES and it is clean as can be (based on UOA's and internal pics). The sludge issue is overblown.

You cannot say that since if your fluid has high TAN you will not get the TAN's to proper levels with 1/3 drains. You would NEED to drain as much as you can to reduce TAN and get your adds (CA, ZN etc along with TBN) back to proper levels. So your 1/3 will not do much on additive pkg in some cases. If you have burnt fluid, you have tranny issues. Color is a general rule but it is a general rule.

Yes it is a good time. I would have done it 20K miles ago... I would do a search on this topic (but this forum is not the best on this topic). Since I test my oil, Amsoil, while 99% on this forum does not, you can go way over 7500 miles with Amsoil oils and be fine. Some other synthetics no way. Plus it depends on what you want. It is oil longeveity, oil performance, protection..... Side not when something is called a synthetic you need to know what you are getting, what is a real synthetic and how it performs in your car. Example, Walmart Synthetic oil is not even close to Amsoils (for example). Also Lexus is WAY behind the times on oil duration.

No, it is made as a throttle body cleaner, intake cleaner etc (internal) along with external surfaces. You follow the directions on the can and no removing brake booster line (which really does not clean well). The car much be running too Unless you buy a can, the website does not explain it very well; but it does state what it can clean (internals and ext).

I got to use the Power Foam Engine Cleaner & Degreaser today. I USED to like seafoam but not any more...The black that came out was unreal and that was after 2 seafoams and 1 B12. Try it, you might like it.

What is wrong with that? It cost more then cars around here...

Why? since my oil testing house since it is a waste of money...

Bingo and filter WAY better per cap and eff ratings. It looks like Amsoil is got the market on oil filters and air filters currently.

Anything will work if you change it soon enough, driving habits...... Again people need to go by what works for them. I could use Walmart oil for $1.50 a qt and work fine. But it is when you start testing you can clearly see the diff and what you can get and do with it.

Pull a UOA then tell me that.

I would not go that far. It has to do with many variables. If you have leaks you have issues with motor cleanliness, not oil. To close, I trust my own personal UOA and nothing online or on forums. Too much BS from people pimping products they sell/invent. People should do their own UOA and then see how the oil reacts/protects/longevity in their own car, and not someone else. Using somone else data in todays engines is a long shot you will not win.

OC = Optimum Compound OHC = Optimum Hyper Compound

Try JW, CG, Danase and some others. They might be better for you then zaino. Zaino is good but there are better products out there.

Find a product that has fillers, notice I said product not wax. I would personally remove the scrathes with OC or OHC and then proceed with a wax/sealant.

Or download the FSM for free...

K&N sucks..Any filter you need to oil is poor. Why? I have stated for years it is a fine line and 99% of people do not do it correctly. Over oil will kill sensors (been there done that). Under oil, been there and you WILL have high (very high) wear numbers as shown per UOA. Plus unless you are racing the car, the increase in HP is marketing BS. So unless you test your oil, you have no idea on how it is working.

yes and yes...

K&N are poor in my eyes, as I have stated for years. Unless you are racing the car, more flow is BS. Over oil you WILL have issues with sensors. Under oil you WILL have high wear properties in oil...There is a fine line and most people do not come close. There are many sensors you can buy some are direct fit and others you need to solder etc. Up to you...I like denso but that is me.