mburnickas

Save you money. There are many threads on this very forum that have been used for a long time on how to remove scrathes & cheaper. AKA: save you money.So far I have yet to see any forum people (here, anywhere...) use this stuff.

Heres a customer review link you can check their feedback on ebay too. http://www.ibc34.com/CONSUMERREVIEW.html I am pretty sure it does not fix everything. It says it does not make repairs just removes oxidation. why are you still pimping this? You might want to talk to mods here.

you are right...all 8 of your posts too! LOL

SW03ES...I guess we all know nothing..and dumb! <unreal> Evertime I read this guys posts it is like an infomercial at 2 AM

Sorry man but it is typical crap online. Go one some major detailing forums and do some reading. It is junk. The write it they post is a total joke. I still love: 1) ...loose electrons---good one 2) "VaporWax your vehicle in under 20 minutes"----I can do the samething with CG5050 along with other cheaper products 3) ...It does not promote rust.------ya think! 4) WHEN SHOULD YOU PUT WAX OR POLISH ON A NEW CAR FACTORY FINISH? NEVER A wax shine is achieved by the use of abrasive particles that are designed to remove the factory finish and replace it with a lessor after market shine. Close inspection after waxing will reveal millions of micro thin scratches. (swirl marks) Wax or polish is fine for older vehicles. They have nothing to loose."-----Now wax removes factory finish???? 5) website sucks 6) "Alien Liquid Research"""...hmm, okay Sorry but this product is below spam...and I think you are spamming here.

You might think WAX is outdated but it is not. Some people like the look of it and some like the look of poly etc. So far from reading online, the product sucks the big one. I like the do not do anything for 24 hours, or the "replaces lost electrons in the paint"..Talk about junk product!

Are the cables tight? Try moving them on the batt posts? Maybe the 97 is diff from my 98 but my 98 was a 10 minute thing and no anti nothing came into play. Here is a dumb on, but is the battery good? Tested at above 12.5V; should be over 13 in good condition. Lastly, Welcome to LOC!

Happy t-day! Do a search since I know this has been talked about many times. I had all the threads bookmarks in FF, but lost them. From what I remember, KYB where in and better. I know that is what I will be using when I need them.

Problem with this internet only product (7 years old; was named "XXX" too) is the maker does not make anything he buys the products and combines. I say problem here since he does not know much on his product. His mods on his forum (Rick20, etc) and certain oil testing people know more then the maker. That is not good in my eyes. The maker/seller should know all the ins/outs of his product. Have you seen the PR statments he makes to his past customers on forums? They are rude and flatout mean. I like it when he states the customer did not follow instructions, or use again and post(spend more money), it was leaking from the start if you want money back (no money back). I am not attacking the product but it is clearly in the young stages and I wonder why these durations etc were not fully tested upfront and why manfactures do not use it? Plus if you say anything not positive on a few forums the posts are removed. Talk about funneling the public here. I am not saying it is not a good product but I do not know if what I am buying is the best bang for the buck....He is still working the product instructions or even proven they (instructions) work best. He is going by (1) UOA from a analysis person. What even happened to a baseline per normal practice? Too many questions undocumented and unknown to date along with long- term usage on his 3oz deal. Hence you can use a numbers of products that are cheapear, do the same job, can buy most places and have been on market a much longer time.

You cannot go by color of engine oil here. I would look for another filter rather then toyo. Over priced and poor design. Not pimping UOA's, but that is the cheapest insurance here.

Very true. Problem with Mobil1 is that is is weak in ZDDP and mostly a group 3 fluid. You could use Walfart Full synthetic fluid and get the same results. But changing at 4K miles is a little, umm nuts.

If your gas pings use cheapest as you can find along with FP+. If you do not buy this fuel add, use the highest you can; but it would cost more in the end.

Well folks, synthetics oil WILL cause sludge down the road. It depends on the duration on the oil, class of synthetic oil, gas additives used, emission systems working 100% and some other important factors. If you ask why etc I have done enough oil testing (UOA) on my ES, along with other gas/diesel engine then most will in there life or on this very forum. Not being stuck up but being truthful here. In my ES, the max I could go with a group 4/5 engine oil is “approx” 17,000 miles without outside additives added. I am doing the same drain duration using LC20 since it performed wonderful results on my last 12,000 drain. Based on my understand and outside oil testing people I should be able to go well over 20,000 miles on my oil and perform just fine; while using LC20. Jsut FYI here. But if you want to know for sure, 100% no guessing or thinking here. Pull the VC (valve covers) or do a UOA (used oil analysis). I would do a UOA since it is cheaper and most in-depth on the present and past issues. My guess is if you are 4 qts low on a 6 qts system, you are going to have serious issues right there. Plus a flush is not the best thing in the world, depending on the flush product used. I would use only Lc20, Amsoil engine flush, Chemtool, seafoam, diesel fuel or kero for a flush. The others are over priced/over-pimped product and there makers are clowns.

The OBDII is going out the door by manufactures. Make way for new method starting next year.

They look easy to me. Download the FSM and try it.

I haven't purhcased Wekstatt products but I'm hearing good things about them, may have to just give them a go I would not use anything but. They are my "go to" product. A little goes a LONG way! like 2 to 3 drops for doors, 4 to 5 drops for hood etc.

My point yet again; see all your thinks...See, most postings of people saying zero info on facts....No data to support anything. I also have yet to see an engine fail using Redline, Amsoil etc. If the engines fails I know manufactures do what, pulling of UOA since they trust the customer zero. Your clearly do not understand Amsoil's warrenty & UOA's. If you did, you would not have posted. But ha, if that gives you a warm fuzzy, great. I will again let the data show (no thinking, guessing like most) what I should do and why...and saved time, $$$ etc.

Hey! mrburnickass. That's how we say, getting "OWNED"!!! LFMAO! Well said, JimsGX, BRAVO! Cheers, MadloR P.S. it has nothing to do with understanding an analysis, but everything to do with good ol fashion common sense and logic. That is the typical response of most Lexus people; more money then brains....That is owned dude. There is a diff between having them do a complex task vs. performing a simple 6-spark plugs, change yourself for $40 and in 15 minutes I might add via $299 from Lexus. <that is owned???, ya right>. That is called owners, who CAN do it could do the work better, half the time and you did it yourself . But again people think Lexus service is special. I trust mom/pop shops more then Lexus; since they, lexus have high prices and no added value for the price. I can afford the service but I am smarter then that. Ps. your good ol fashion common sense and logic are incorrect since you have no data to support anything. You are using a manual, based on recommend items as mandatory which is not the case.

MadloR- So now proof in a manual (recommend drains) show anything on the condition of oil?? LMFAO! Take my work outside the picture here Madlor. Since I was doing this long before my present job, as I noted prior. It is a fact the UOA are a great benefit but most will NOT pay the large amount of $$$. They play the "I do not understand it", too hard, too much $$$ blah blah but do not even try here. I do not want to jeopardize my engines to a "boilerplate" manual when it comes to things as oil, coolants, fluids etc; You take the little Lexus manual that has so much FOS in it for service, it is a flat-out joke. I will pay someone to test my oil/fluids since it again does a lot more then "checking to see how long oil/fluid will last". That madlor is what makes you really understand your engine. It again has saved my hundreds of dollars and nothing to even do with oil changes either. Gryphon-I agree it is rare for a lexus owner to even fill air in their tires too. But most will pay the outrages prices of "the man" at the stealership. Remove a panel to take a sample of oil (about 2 oz)? You can pay a lab, with shipping folks, from 16 to over $50 to test your oil. Some give you some data and some give you the works. The more you know the better. The best is you can takes a huge 10-minutes to take the sample and even get the USPS to pick it up at your home. You cannot beat that. Most forums will not get into UOA's for reasons I posted prior. If you post info on oils without UOA's, you are talking out your a$$. Even raw unused oil data is not integral to oil performs in the real world. RX400h- $0.02 cents will get you a smile at the dealership before they rape you! LOL

My take is…. why do you need a water pump? How old wires? When you change brakes you add fluid? Really you remove fluid when pushing cals back. You add fluid when or if you remove the old. How many miles you drive a year in the lone star state? Mechanic's in the great state of Texas (near houston) are the not the best I have seen.

All I am saying is the Toyo oil is made by Exxon/mobil so I would not be shocked.

No, you can switch anythime. I have switch cars only up to 160,000 miles to date. I would rather use, Lc20, B12 or Amsoil engine cleaner; since they are the best bang for the $$$$.

Exxon/Molbil makes Toyo oil. That is why I always say their oil is over priced. For the price they charge people are here (for 1 oil change), I could buy Amsoil (with their Ea oil filter) for 3 years..to break even!

I wanted to get my GX in black but my wife fell in love with silver and after driving it around for a day or two I understood why my wife liked the color. That and hides all imperfections quite well. Only draw back is that I can't get the depth or wet looks that black color vehicles get but if I detail it properly I can get some nice depth to it...well as much as I can for silver. Try Jeff Werkstatt Acrylic Jett (JW) on the silver car..The stuff is "the bomb".