mburnickas

Anyone try it? Maybe going to pull the trigger and get some. But my CG5050 works mint....Wondered if people had/used it.

HID are nice but anything above 4,300K (not degree lamp) is a waste in my eyes. 8000K (you got) look nice but light output is not that much more then a halogen bulb. All manufactures only go to 4300K for this reason. This is coming from a guy who has 3 HID kits.

I think it is mech or elec related. Is the tailpipe black?

For me, my 98 is doing the samething on the drive side. I put leather cleaner/cond on every 4 to 6 months. I have yet to see this not happen in a car or in my home. But I use CG (chemical guys) leather and cond. Smells nice and I like it.

Here is one. how do you it is wrong? I go by weather.com (says one thing). I go by banks etc and all are diff.

Are you going to install them?

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Auto_Detail_Vi...ssings_s/13.htm http://www.danase.com/tiandwhca.html

looks like the FSM are now gone....

Unless something is really new in 2001, I can change my plugs in my 98 in 20 minutes. Lastly, cleaning the engine is just that. Over time it WILL get dirty and things start to hit mpg. I am not saying this will solve the issues but it will help. Your pistons gets dirty, ring packs etc. I use Lc20 in the oil. IF the engine is dirty, after putting Lc20 in, if will turn oil black. You can also use other engine flushes too. Up to you just state one I like, CS is great, no BS owners with attitudes, UOA house likes it and it is safer then some others. What I would do is check the things I noted before and then I would hook up to OBD2 reader and see levels in proper area (fuel trims etc). I have never EVER gotten below 19 on my car. If I did, I would just get an SUV for that hit in MPG!

use T-body cleaner next time.

my 98 has nothing about this in the manual. I only found about it here! :)

add fluid and see that happens. I have yet to see a sensor go bad in this area. Also the sensor on the P brake is not integral to the assy. Should be a std part???

add brake fluid..Then see what happens.

And pancakes and eggs fall right off! LMAO....Yet another reason why I dislike Lexus dealers. Only a few reason too.

Mine did that in the winters when snow is under them.

Marketing and skip it.

I have a 1998 ES300: 120K miles Just drove 2,000 miles with over 400 lbs in car. Speedo was crused at 75 to 80 for the trip. I got between 32.75 to 34 MPG on the highway using 87. I only used Fuel Power PLus (FP+) for gas add, Lube Control (LC20) in oil and Amsoil 0w-20 engine oil. Engines runs the best it has using the above. Last time, same trip not using Fuel Power nor LC20 (same weight [400] in car though) and Amsoil 5w-30 I got 29 to 31 MPG on same trip. City driving I get 21.5 to almost 25. Depends on the mood I am in. Thu-check tire PSI, plugs as SW stated, air filter, run some gas cleaner in it since if never done it is bad. Also have you cleaned the engine (internal) ever? IF not, I advise you do you LC20 in the oil. My testing house advised me to use it and it made a huge diff. Cleaned up internals nice (ring packs, varnish, carbon etc).

Again what they state in the manual is just as you state "recommended". This is an old debate and holds little marit. It does not say you MUST do anything. Again, I still have yet to see anything happen using Amsoil, Redline etc. They work but people are affraid. I have posted pix of under my valve cover on my car and it is clean. The internals are great lookfor doing over 12,000 mile intervals (and you could never tell). I can go longer and will be doing that based on UOA. So you pay $29 for a blend (group 3) oil? Dude, you are getting ripped off. IF you have an issue, slips mean nothing since it proves nothing. The factory will pull a UOA as I stated for years; nothing new. For me, I state what UOA prove (real world safe) and not a manual written for add in the manufacure (added fluff). Again these manuals are built FOS and $$$$; not what is real world. PLus Toyota is still way behind the times on oil. Have been for years. If you like what you are doing great. For me I want the least amount of wear etc and most bang for the $$$. I put little faith in manuals from manufactures since I know what goes into them.

It depends in all my years on oil (almost 20 young) I have never seen Amsoil, Redline etc or any other group4/5 used longer cause (blown up sitting....). Car dealer pull the same scare tactics which are BS. IF any engine fails ALL dealers will pull a UOA to see what is up; as I have stated for like 4 years on this forum. Manufactures trust customers zero. Amsoil cost me $29 plus $10 for a filter. And it last me 1 year (and UOA prove it works very well). I hope to hell you are not tossing $30 down the drain every 4 to 5K miles. If you are doing that, use the cheapest oil you can find and do not test. You will not like it.

A manufacture cannot deny coverage based on anything. I have been doing longer oil changes from my GSXR bike, Diesel truck, Lexus, Ml420, Kubota Tractor. This is from 1992 onward. I stick up for it and dealers, most I have seen have no clue. If fact, Amsoil grp 4/5 oil are ahead of Mobil1 EP oils. You WILL not have a problem if your engine is running correctly. My Lexus manuals, letters etc say I do NOT have to do anything. FYI: Q. The GM Factory extended 6/60 warranty I purchased for my Pontiac Grand Am states the following under the "Your Responsibilities" section: "YOU must properly maintain the covered VEHICLE which includes, but is not limited to, changing the engine oil at a minimum of every 3,000 miles or as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. If requested, proof of required service, including receipts and work orders showing date and mileage of the VEHICLE at the time of service must be presented to US in the event of a FAILURE or CLAIM." Because of this I fear switching to the AMSOIL Series 2000 0W-30 synthetic oil and oil filter and leaving it in the engine for the full year or 35,000 miles, thus risking voiding the factory warranty. Is there anything you can do to contact GM and convince them of the fallacy of the 3,000 mile oil change and convince them to use and recommend AMSOIL synthetic oil in their cars? They are convinced enough to use Havoline "extended" drain interval antifreeze, so why won't they see the advantages of AMSOIL synthetic 0W-30 oil? A. The language in the extended protection plan was written by an insurance company, and it is definitely intended to intimidate you into changing your oil every 3,000 miles. They are doing everything they can to try to limit their liability for claims and create wiggle room. All of the vehicle OEMs in the U.S. have agreed that a warranty cannot be denied because a customer was using any brand of motor oil at any length drain interval unless an engine failure was directly attributable to the oil or drain interval. For example, if your radio, power steering unit, air conditioner, etc. broke down, they could not void the warranty that covers those items because you were changing your engine oil at extended drain intervals. If it is not an oil related failure, they cannot void the warranty. The law supports this position. If your engine failed, and the manufacturer denied your warranty for repair due to your using extended drain intervals, then you would submit your claim to the AMSOIL Technical Services Department for handling. (See the AMSOIL Limited Warranty.) Our staff will analyze the oil, and if we are able to provide documentation that proves the source of the problem was something other than the oil, and that in turn allows your claim to be processed under the original warranty, then we will. If no proof can be assembled regarding the source of the problem, our insurance adjustor will be dispatched to resolve the claim. A warranty claim being denied because of the use of extended drain intervals is an extremely rare occurrence. That’s because motor oils do not cause engine failures; dirt, glycol and other mechanical problems do. Ironically, in Europe the auto manufacturers’ recommended drain intervals are from 12,000-18,000 miles using petroleum products, and they are moving even higher. In the U.S., it has been published that auto manufacturers are also going to be moving toward extended drain intervals of up to 15,000 miles in the not too distant future. Some auto manufacturers include systems in their vehicles that tell you when to change oil based upon a computer program that evaluates driving habits. As these changes develop, so will the language in owner’s manuals and extended warranty policies. As an AMSOIL customer, you have our warranty coverage to fall back on in the unlikely event of an engine failure that is not covered by your vehicle warranty. I hope you will not be intimidated by the language in your extended warranty policy and will continue to use the highest quality and best performing products that you can, AMSOIL.

I used to like the oil glazzed air filters and now I would not use them if someone GAVE them to me for free! They suck and will kill sensors (over oiled) or have high engine wear (too little oil). It is a fine line to get it right and it is far too much work. If you want use the OEM paper ones, WIX air filter or Amsoil Eaa filters.

Use Amsoil and go at least 12K on the oil and filter. Then pull a UOA. I love there oil and will defend it since I have used it for WAY to long and have done more UOA then I can help throughout the years. It works and works very well. But if you are using only FF filters there is not many that can do 35K per year. Yes it matters if anyone feels I am incorrect please show me UOA to prove it. I have used other oils and wears, NOX, OXD, TAN etc and they sucked!

This is one of a few reasons why I dislike Lexus (at times). There prices are flat-out a joke on certain things, one is oil changes. or the check this and that and really do nothing for the high price. But that is me.

I was told from my oil testing guy anything over 87 is a waste. I just use FP+ and call it a day.

What is a C-best setting is a Lexus tool the only one that can do this?