mburnickas

I would expect you to be impressed for the amount of jingle ($1,600) you are dropping. People always smile when you hand them $$$$$. I have had the same experience at my old Ford dealer and prices were about the same (per hour etc) What I do not get is why is a $190 sensor $495 (labor is not that much), wipers I can see I guess but 90,000 mile service $705.40 (TB, anti-freeze, rotate tires) +cam seals @ 109?? Cam seals are right there since the TB was replaced…I do not get it. I would say cam + crank seals $109 total but whatever. I would hope you get a new drive belt included in the service. Was that a tranny filter/fluid change? Price vary ALOT on where you are located. But as long as you are happy that is all that matters. But you look forward to the 200K miles service not another 200K miles..:)

I use Amsoil Eao (for time saver, best media out there...) and for 15,000 no problems. I would not have a problem taking a K&N oil filter over 10,000 miles and a hastings/napa gold out 7,500+ miles.

Not gonna turn this into an oil debate, as I am sure people will post :), but if you are blindy going for a duration. 7,500 miles for normal and like 6000 for severe; This is for DINO too. Synthetic oils can go 8 to 10,000 miles without any issues. These number are on the conservative side, bigtime; aka no UOA. For me I would not even blink at going 13,000 to 15,000 miles (and over 1-year) on a synthetic oil. For me, Lexus is behind the times on oil and their manuals have HUGE built in FOS, bigtime.

Lexus coolant (long life) is 99% the same as the green stuff. I have mixed, in my 98 ES and been fine. The red in the coolant is a dye. Now the new collant super long live is not the same as normal EG. You do not have to flush but I would drain, refill,filter etc. Welcome to LOC! :D

Find a new station. It can be others places NOT under the steering wheel. What clowns.

cool..I use FP+ since it is cheaper to use.....But both are great stuff

But was an an OEM door.LMAO...

yea but it is an Toyota approved product as monarch would push! LOL

gotcha about the actual price, haha where to get the amsoil filter, or the LC20 though? also are the VC seals different than the gasket? -Erik Amsoil filter is where you can find. Lc20 from lubecontrol.com VC is the gasket

sorry.

I was joking. Spend the $6 and get Amsoil Power Foam. 10000X better then water for intake cleaning. The VC seals are about $9 from OEM.

I agree BUT are these chemicals bad? Are they bad long term? Do these cause direct damage? Overtime? How is this not "proper washing"? Define proper washing? I have used Chemical products (acid) on my wheels and have yet to see damage. In fact, the road salt in MA causes more then the acid wheel cleaners.

I did my sides at $160 per side (wetherstrip). It stops for about 1-year till the seal relaxes...It is a problem with these model years.

Hi Erik- Do not get me wrong, there are other good oils out there; but for me and my testing Amsoil wins (for my duration). You will be fine with GC I just do not know how well or good it would be to others. Hard to tell without testing..Sorry If you used LC20 and GC you can go 7,500+ no problem. And that is VERY VERY conservative. Again hard to tell with UOA.s LC20 conditions seals (not swelling), cleans internals, cleans rings, stabilizes TBN, reduces frictions bigtime etc. LC20 is an addative that was introduced to be. I was like, “I do not need that but they said try it”. I did and the UOA show it works bigtime. The first time you use it, it will turn oil black very soon. It is normal but it [LC20] still adds lubricity etc. It is an amazing product. Lastly, water will work better then seafoam for intake cleaning. If you want to get REAL clean use Amsoil Power Foam. The stuff is worth its weight in gold (1oz-$980)! LOL Yes on the seal. It is like $9 per seal I think.

I agree!

Lexus dealers suck in this area. They washed my car one time and I think they did it with sand paper! Nevermind the fake cherry smell in a leather interior! clowns....

I would use a group 4/5 oil and any weight oil is fine. Unless you are testing the oil it is hard to say what is best in those temps. I know in Texas, 0w-20 Amsoil is perfect.

I have a 98 ES and my short comments are: You have a valve cover gasket leak and a high mileage oil most time contains seal swells. Toyota oil is remarketed Mobil. They do not really do anything to the seal, just make it larger to keep things from leaking. In my eyes they are not needed. Heck, I use Amsoil 0w-20 in a car with over 120,000 miles and no leaks. My car LOVES Amsoil and Lc20. I tried other oils in the past and other oil products and so far, I recommend them to all. Even if you do not use Amsoil use the LC20. It is a great product that I am very glad was told to me by one of my oil testing houses. I also do extended oil changes, between 10 to over 12,000 miles, since they work if you know how to construct a baseline and then go from there. The sludge issue in autos is most times due to items not integral to the car. Use a good oil and you are golden for well over 7,500 miles. I say that based on my past years of UOA's. Mobil is a good filter. If you want the best, yes the best get the new Amsoil Eao filter. It is unreal on how good it is. No BS, it is the best to date and should be for the price. Heck, you can go well over 1 year on these filters and be fine. No worries on the oil coming out of VC when removed. You will get some but not a lot. Most will be in the pan and not by the valves. For cleaning (engine, rings, seals) and maintaining them, I like Lc20 from lube control. It works, no BS from owners (unlike some products), been around for a long time; approx 70+ years, simple to use, makes the oil even better. It WILL reduce wear a huge amount (mine at least 50%), keep TBN's high/stable (TAN low), and clean all internals. It was amazing what it did to my engines. Works slow and very well. Ps. Since some people have a thing for the pimped seafoam I cleaned my wifes car (intake). I tried seafoam via brake booster hose; did crap. Did a spray bottle with water; WAY better but Amsoil Power Foam worked the best. The intake is nice and clean along with the IAC. Do not trust me folks, try the 3 products and look at the results. I am still amazed on how good the stuff works. I used to like seafoam but that is crap now. Do not waste your money here. I know my ES needs another cleaning since it is dirty. I thought water was great or better then seafoam and it is; but, not power foam. So simple, no hoses to remove, no chance of hyro-locking car and cleans more then seafoam could ever do.

no wax will last 8 months on a daily driver.

Yes. Do an engine flush before and oil change. If you use a good oil it will help 95% not to get sludge. Sludge is from oil that is/has broken down due to heat, over use, high TAN etc. When you do an engine flush clean the IAC and TB/intake. I LOVE Amsoil Power Foam. It is 1000X before then the over rated seafoam.

kind of a odd posts since there are millions of cars WITHOUT DRL's..... I say, it is your car and do what you wish.

I would like to know also My OBD light is on steady but cant find the port. Does anyone know wher it is for a 2002 LX-470? behind radio, behind glove comp, below steering wheel?

Either do a UOA, pull valve cover or you can pull the pan. Auto-RX is okay but there are other products that will work too. I dislike ARX since the owner is rude, does not know his product and after 8-years he still does not know the product and still does not have companies that advise people to use it. Plus if not for a website and an oil analysis testing person he would not have the product he does. I like LC20 since it does the samething as ARX (at old rates), cheaper, been in busines for 60+ years, Texas gov gave them $$$ and great customer service. I tried ARX again in there MD and my car did not like it. For me Customer service is key and one product is lacking that. Nevermind the unclear directions that users need to help the owner with...Give me a break I was going to try a 1/2 case and there was no discount......<sad>

If you are only doing below 7,500 miles Chinamart oil is fine. To me, no one NEEDs to change there oil below this duration. Most SM oils can handle this no problem.

To me, you cannot say you have sludge based on the fill cap. My fill cap has looked like that for about 75K miles. The fill area is not in the oil area, only splash and that is normal.Again this area does not get alot of oil and this picture is normal. To close, your oil fill area is NORMAL and not integral to oil sludge. You either need to pull a UOa (better method) or pull the valve covers.