mburnickas

For me, flushes are fine (if you want to do it). I think they are overstated just like the engine oil gelling issue. You do NOT have to take the filter off every ATF change (unless you are doing extended drains; 50 to 90K miles). You can drain ATF and just refill with ATF. You are wasting money but changing filter every time. If you have something bad happen with a flush, it was full of crap and would have happened down the road. If you use a good flush and change as UOA show, you are fine. I change my fluid (ATF) at about 35 to 45K miles and it comes out mint (using Amsoil ATF). Used it for about last 12 years and works fint. Lastly, I trust Toyota on fluid like snake-oil salesman. They know jack s%^t.

Sometimes vinegar works but most time is a light compound. That is why a good sealant helps along with a nice wax. But sometimes nothing will, I know one the Lexus lot one was burned into my paint.

the scanner should tell you, in order, on what is wrong. Maybe P171 is causing the others to fail.

There is a huge debate over air filter choices. In order to avoid another useless air filter debate thread, Simply make a decision on your own. It is strictly a personal decision. Enough said. Done. yup, most times it is people posting without showing anything/data. So I agree.

um, your kid kit is not a real projector kit and 99.9% it will be made in China. Not a bad kit I guess but not what camlex is asking for.

I posted above.

hidplanet.com

I was incorrect. The site I love has them for $409 for everything (diy) but is sold out.

BINGO! People need to start using them being saying anything on oil duration etc I feel. Most time forums are full of s%^&

do a search for HID projectors online. There are like a billion places. Or just do down to the beltway at 11PM and ask people...:)

It is still funny people "do not buy anything" and have nothing to support it. Longer drains work, why? I have been doing them for enough time to know they do. Again know oils (basestocks and adds) nd what you need and how to read UOA, you are fine. Short drains are a total waste of manpower, time, resources. Top grade products to know ensure zero

ya, right....in my years of doing UOA, that is not the normal in sports cars to motorcycles..

I do not know whom your post is directed but I have noticed zero in acceleration of 87 to 89 to 91 (or 93). All three, perform the same in my cars and even my gsxr. Un-treated fuels turn all injectors to crap, carbon up plug ends, carbon crowns of cylinders. As I noted in other posts I can use Fp60 (or FP3000) and get better results WITHOUT using 91 and save money in various ways. This is not commercial on the product but from what I have read, seen, data, it works WITHOUT spending the worthless money at the pump. Even if your car accelerated better on untreated 93, does that does not mean anything in engine performance, durability, MTBF etc. I am not starting a debate here but 100 to 1, without any supporting data you are getting a placebo effect.

Good luck. I hope you will do an UOA before going that long on time #1 without any baseline....

Seafoam is good but Amsoil Power foam blows it away! Plus seafoam CAN hydro-lock a car, not power foam…. You can also use distilled water if you want and it WILL clean better then seafoam (fact) and maybe powerfoam; however again hydro-locking is an issue. Plus I am starting to think seafoam "smoke cloud" (white) is mostly seafoam and not carbon (grey/black).

Rotary buffers are not dangerous or dinosaurs. Maybe you do not know how to use one correctly. It is a powerful tool that many users cannot handle. You can correct a car faster then any cyclo my friend. Time is money and the outcome, if you use it correctly, will be the same as you posted.

use 87 and a fuel add and be fine. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=44831&st=0

As noted prior, 87 with an add is all you need. Putting in 91 or 93 is a waste. Again, as noted before a Premium fuel is not going to do the things an good fuel addative will. Again these are things I have going through and a dealership know jack $$%&^ on UOA and fuel addatives. Hell Lexus is still 15 years hehind the times on oil. I do not put any bottles in my car. I put in the proper amount (1oz) and go to gas station. Takes about 10 seconds and the bottles you need you get for free when you buy certain addatives. Premium fuel will not burn cleaner, add more BTU to fuel burning process, less NOX, adds UCL to fuel. WIth the 10% corn in fuel ,you need a nice fuel add since corn is worse then MTB's.

The right add is what you like. For me, it is Fp3000 from Lube control based on my UOA's and testing house comments. Cost was noted on previous post. As I noted before with ethanol and its crappy lube properties I would always use Fp3000. Chevron makes a nice cleaner but it is only a cleaner. No burning cleaner, no lube properties, no "more btus", fuel stablier etc. I can look at my tailpipe and there is no black soot for over 1 year inside.

for amsoil? put the cleaner where? If you clean TB, you spray TB...

you can buy projectos online, plus the complete kit (retro) for about $350

After using LC20 in Amsoil ASL, I would never NOT use it. I thought I did not need it till the UOA's came back. Lastly, with ethanol and crappy lubricity using it, I would use a fuel add, like now! But I do not use Lucas any longer since it is not liked but lots of testing people and after seeing it last year in the winter, no way.

97 to 99 have halogen and HIDS will perform like $%%&. I know, I tried. You need projectors and you can retro the lights for like $350

If you use the right addative, there is no diff between 87 and 92/93 octane. I have stated that. I never said tractors are sexy but neither is an Austin Martin. Problem is you can do more with a Tractor then any car...

It is like $0.25 more per qt. My ES loves it, gained a little more mpg and engine responses better. ASL works but for me, the ASM wins hands down. In fact I ordered 5 gallons of it!