suraj

While replacing old battery, I found a screw that was just sitting on the side of the battery container. It has threads only half way, not the same has battery bracket screw that has threads full length. The head size is same as battery bracket screw but is longer. I checked but not sure where it supposed to go. I've attached a picture here. If you recognize where it goes, I appreciate your reply.

Finally got the battery replaced at Costco for $65. The new battery is little shorter in length (doesn't fully fit the battery jacket) and few mm taller. I had to adjust the bracket little bit to fit the height. It has 640 cold cranking amps that is lower than my old Diehard battery @ 700 but seems to work fine. After that, the clock keeps the time and it's not hard to start in the mornings. Hopefully, it'll last for the 35 months warranty period. Thanks for all the suggestions. :)

Just for my own comfort, I took the battery to O'reilly and have it checked. Result: It is weak. It's rated at 600 crank but now its only giving out 360. Also, 1 cell is dead. I'll replace it soon but one thing that is weird. When putting the battery back in, the rod on the back of the bracket is just dangling. It does not hook on anything. Where does that rod on the bracket go to? Thanks for info.

Thank you for replies FileHorse and 2ndTwin. I cleaned the terminals with baking soda. It had layers of grease on it and now it's sparkling clean. However, the issue is still there. So, I guess the battery is dying. I'll go to Autozone and have them check the battery and replace if they find it cannot be recharged. I'm currently in Denver and it gets pretty cold and snowy in the winter, up to -20 wind chill sometimes. Now, is there a specific battery brand I should look for? The current one is Diehard or Duralast (I think it's Diehard--have to go to car and check) and not sure what the crank power is.

:chairshot: Cold season started last week and since then, it is hard to start (feels like it is struggling) and after start, the clock in the panel is reset to 1:00 every time. It usually happens in the cold mornings. When the car is warm after driving a while, it starts easily but after a long period of time off, it's hard. Is it due to battery or something serious? Thanks for ideas.

Same thing happens in my car on both driver and passenger side. After resetting the pinch (pulling the switch up for a while) has made it better but still every now and then it acts weird.

Thank you Carguy for the link. Anywho, I went to Autozone to try the cheapest troubleshooting step first and got this Techron fuel system cleaner: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/a...questid=1197047 Then went to a Shell gas station, put the Techron in and filled tank with highest octane premium gasoline. Removed -ve terminal from battery to reset codes. Next morning, I hooked the battery back up and drove around pressing gas to get high rpms... So far, I have driven around 70 miles after that and the CEL has not come back yet. Hope this continues on. :) If it comes back :(, MAF cleaning would be next step. Thank you

Well, I checked the hoses that I could and can't tell if anything is loose or broken. Do you think this (PO171) can be fixed by local mechanic or is it serious enough for a dealership work? Dealership is pretty expensive. I read some other posts and will try adding a fuel system cleaner to see if that helps. I'll take it for repair this weekend. BTW, how hard is it to clean MAF? If there are detailed steps, I can try that. Thanks

Thank you Joe for the pdf. But since I'm not a DIY guy, the only thing I can do before taking to a mechanic is to check hoses. BTW, how often the spark plugs need to be replaced? I have 91K miles and I heard Lexus recommends replacing them at 100k.

Took the car to Autozone and it came up with PO171 code and had 4 possible causes: 1. Vaccum hose or something leaking 2. MAF sensor 3. ECT or CTI (not sure) 4. O2 sensor The guy there suggested to check hoses for any leaks or if they are loose. Bad thing is it cost as much to diagnose as to fix. :(

Hi guys, First of all, oil change was not overdue, it was right on 5000 miles mark. I noticed some power loss when I pressed gas so thought may need oil change soon. Then all of a sudden after driving 20 miles, check engine light came on. Took it for an oil change, power felt a lot better than before but check engine light is still on. Not sure what's wrong. I'll take it to an autozone and have them scan. Is it just a maintenance schedule triggering the light or something else messed up? Thanks for any ideas if you had similar problem before. -- Suraj 2000 RX-300 2WH 91K miles

Hi guys, Thanks for reply. Before I took the car back to the shop, I checked online and found that few have same issue after timing belt change and the code was P1346. The main mechanic at the shop hooked up the code machine and it was indeed P1346. He suspected that his associate who replaced the belt didn't check it properly by turning the belt few times before closing. The reason was one tooth of the timing belt jumped from the center. He opened the timing belt again and installed it properly. No check engine light. Thank god. He mentioned that other cars take a while to find that but this rx300 immediately found that. :) May be lexus computer is better than most others. Btw, the shop also replaced Transmission fluid filter in my rx300. I was not aware that transmission fluid also has filter. Hopefully, no more issues for at least few years. Thanks again. :D

Okay got your reply little late. :( I did all the recommended and now it's showing check engine light. I just got it back and the shop is closed for today. I hope it is not major. I'll have to take it back there tomorrow to see what's going on. I noticed the car is smoother now except the engine light is bothering me. Do I need to reset something for that? No idea what is emissions service. I didn't ask them to do that. thanks guys

Tried resetting pinch protection. I think it helped little bit. The window didn't come up from the middle but it came back from all the way down after few tries. Didn't have to wait long this time. I'll see if it gets any better. I want to ask you about the repair quote. Do you guys think the price is reasonable? What do you guys think critical? I can change air filter myself, other than that, everything is at Toyota or lexus. The quote is from Toyota not from Lexus dealer. Replace Rear brake pads/resurface rotors, pads red @ 2mm $218.95 Replace drive belts (cracked) $165 Replace air filter, very dirty $30 Timing belt, including seals and water pump $945 Trans flush, fluid very dirty $150 P/S flush, fluid verey dirty $90 Brake fluid flush, fluid very dirty $107 Emissions service $200 Total: $1,905.95 Thanks

Thank you for replying guys. I'm more concerned about the window than the antenna. I've to open my door and throw coins at toll roads as I'm afraid the window won't come up. I took it for an oil change and discussed issue with the guy there and he said the window motor may be weak and will cost around $600 to replace. I don't know if after market part will work here. $600 sounds expensive and for both windows that's $1200. :-( The service guys also recommended few other things that costs over $2000 such as timing belt, water pump, trans fluid flush, brake fluid, drive belt, rear brake pads etc... daang...