Toysrme

FYI, this works on All Toyota designed engine's using electronic spark. Distributor internal & external coils, Distributorless coil on plug & wasted spark ignitions. Talk about free security systems that aint gonna be figured out rotflmao!

Splice a switch into any ignition wire, mount it in the carpet down to the left of the seat where it's inconspicuous to flip. A perfect example is the IGF signal . If the ECU doesn't get the firing confirmation<s> from the coil<s>. The ECU will only tell the coils to fire for a few revolutions. Cranks, stalls, cranks, stalls, cranks, stalls. No damage . Just don't confuse IGF with IGT. IGF = confirmation from the coil to the ECU that the coil discharged. IGT = ignition dwell sent from the ECU to the coil telling it to charge & fire. The difference is that IGT is heavily influenced by the resistance on the line. The more resistance, the longer the dwell, so the longer the ignition coil charges. If it get's too long for the rpm, the coil burns out. IGF doesn't really matter. So long as the ECU get's something, it knows the coil has fired.

I would do a Toyota dealer. It's probably going to be a cheaper rate for inspection & if a Toyota dealer finds a problem, the Lexus dealer is going to be boxed in to do work. & if worse came to worse, when you call Toyota of America, they can jump the dealer's butttt.

I don't think so. The calipers are self-adjusting. If it's siezed, you will get a constant braking force on that wheel that degrads as the pads wears out. In that case it would have a pull to that side that lessons as the pad wears. Davillan check the amount of brake wear on the pads. If they look good, take the pads out & apply anti-squeal between the pad shim & the piston face.

The radiator has a drain plug on the bottom of it, or you can just take the lower radiator hose off. The engine drain is on the back of the block (firewall side). You have to be under the car to open it.

1 Reset the ECU 2 Check the front bank spark plugs 3 PCV 4 Check o2 sensors for responce & replace them

You've got to be joking me.

So Julian Edgar (of Autospeed) was the first person to supercharge a Prius, then swapped that for a turbo. Who here's going to be first??? Supercharged Prius Part I, Part II, Part III Turbocharge Conversion Part I, Part II Anyway, Someone modify regen braking, as he wrote A World First: Modifying Regen Braking: Smoother and more powerful braking that also improves fuel economy!. As can be seen, you can change the amount of regeneative braking force (and consequently output) from insane, to very little change. His preliminary test indicated that it was hard to measure consistently in a urban environment, but his extra 15% of force achived some 5min periods where fuel consumption was improved by 30%. The Prius runs in closed-loop (o2 sensor) all the time. Altering the o2 signal to change the fuel mixture will gain power & throttle response. Article URL=http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2388/article.html]here. Tho they are hocking their piggyback, there are a lot of fairly cheap piggybacks that can alter o2 sensors. SMT's can. I use mine on my 3vz-fe, I love it. Why talk about the Prius? Well... Obviously that's what's available. It should also be obvious that most of the controls use the same parts with the same control strategies. Personally, I would like to see a few people try modding the braking system at the least.

Ok, the cable is in a sheath. Lay your seat back in a comfortable upside down positition. Cut a few inches of seath off the cable. Grab it with a set of pliers & pull. If there is no resistance, go back to the driver's wheel well. Take the wheel well out. The pink area is about where the cable will be. That's what it looks like in the bay. A view I hope you can have soon! I couldn't find a descent way to do it through the grill. The cable is tucked in an unworkable position & the latch housing itself is boxed in to keep people from tampering it. :\ It's possible to unbolt the hold downpart -2*10mm nuts, but it's not really feasable while the hood is down. You could try it with a small 10mm wrench, like what's in the toolkit. But I'm not sure if it would work. I don't think you could dremel it off. That would be semi possible with a flex shaft and a ton of light.

Ya know the battery could have nearly died, then once it cooled off been enough to crank the car LoL!

I wouldn't mind it. With the Kentucky plant building hybrids now for the '07 year (Camry), and the fact that it always seems like there's a dozen things built of the Camry platform - it's not a conservative goal. Seriously, anyone see a corolla engine bay lately? Take all the cladding out & you could drop the current i4 hybrid drivetrain in there with little effort. Just figure out where to mount the battery packs. I would expect as soon as TMMK starts pumping out Camry's (If the market buys many) the price of all Toyota's North American built hybrids will go down as they build more. The hybrid drivetrain isn't going to throw maintenance costs out the window. You're still going to go the same periods as the other engines. This is easily seen today by comparing the maintenance on the ECHO against the Prius. There is no difference. Drive belts are still checked beginning at 60,000 miles, and inspected/replaced in 15,000 mile intervals. Everything is the same.

800k Finally!

Well I'll keep it short. Post a few pictures (or send them to me) of the car on a jackstand, with the wheel off, in broad daylight & I'll try to come up with a way to un-latch the hood. Why am I being anal about it? Security. You, will obviously think I'm joking. Well, the great Maxima headlight scandel proved to everyone how the internet can cause a huge security risk to explode. So I'm not telling without some pics~! I'm sorry 'cause I feel bad, but that's my deal. :(

1am-7am, yep! When a stock Lexus alarm trims, it's not on a timer. They stay on 'till the key is in the ignition. Real annoying! Have her securely close the trunk & hood, and have her watch the car for 3min after doing so. (It should activate in 30 seconds) Unlock & lock all the doors seperately by hand. I don't think the key would be a problem if it unlocks the doors. A note for the future, pulling the EFI fuse in the box by the battery for a second & replacing it will reset the ECU's. (Or the battery cable) Don't be sorry about asking questions! It sounds like it's going off all the time, but if it doesn't happen when she's around, I'd tell her to take any valueables out of the car!

I always vote if you can just pick it out, or you don't feel like pulling the upper intake off to do some cleaning/maintenance - just leave it. Whatever you do, good luck with it!

Autopia.org. Experts disagree with you. (edit - About using a mf towel to dust.) (I have a CCD too. I quit using it after buying my latest stock of pakshak mf towels on a huge sale.) Both work well, but I like MF towels. They have more than one use. Tho it is obvious... Don't run a dirty microfiber towel on anything.

If you have the time, there are a lot of guides on how to prep a car for painting. The key to good paint is in prep. You can save a lot of labor charge by doing the fairly basic prep work yourself.

A picture would be helpful, but yes you can replace the nuts. Just take the thing to a nut & bolt house and have them give you another one. One thing you can do is bypass the cruise control until you fix whatever it was. Take the throttle cable (From the gas pedal) off the cruise control, and put it on the throttle plate. It'll reach.

You can see the end, and one of the middle grooves are slightly different on the valet. I will say that what's interesting the camera didn't pick up. The master key profile has worn into the "center" part. You can see the differance in profile in person if you get a magnifying glass.

Brake pads either dust a lot, or a hell of a lot. Just invest in a strong wheel cleaner that is spray on and wash off. If you do that once a week, it won't build up & you'll never have to scrub it. ProACT's are just normal. Most ceramic pads will squeak if you use them very hard without warming them up, or heat them up hot, & don't cool them down, but any pad will do that. Squeaking isn't a problem with a descent pad (like the listed ones).

The pdf shows it's dry 503*F, wet is 343*F. That's in the dry range for most dot3's. I use something similar. Go for it if you want it. Unless you use your brakes enough to experiance fade, I would just go with a cheap dot3, but whatever ya want. Be sure to run all the oil fluid out. If you dont know, take a jar or something & fill it with some cheap fluid. Run a hose from the nipple on the caliper into the container of fluid. Pump the brakes until you get new fluid out. The good news is air can't be sucked back into the system. ;)

Sure. With brake fluid anything works. Most people never flush it out, which is bad because water get's in the fluid fairly easy. Since I try to flush them all out once a year, never more than 2, I just use whatever's cheap for the other cars. Then fluid isn't going to make a difference in pedal feel, noise, or wear - less you convert the system to run dot5 synthetic, or run some ultra expensive fluid. As long as it's fluid that isn't old, or has water in it, it's going to feel the same. Where you get the feel is when you're using the brakes hard enough to boil the fluid. Once brake fluid get's a few years old - most people half-way into performance that have done pads & rotors, IMHO, mis-diagnose needing to upgrade brake parts, with fluid boiling. Anywho, I can't explain it any better than that. If you're wondering the difference between fluids, I would compare dry & wet (i.e. containing water) boiling points, and do research on bobistheoilguy.com. As a side note, I try to avoid NAPA at all costs. They are notorious for jacking the prices of everything they sell. I would suggest going to walmart & seeing what fluids they have. Normaly they have good deals. I just got 5 quarts of mobil synthetic for $18 thursday.

Hmmmm My post got ate up! Drive around the block until the coolant comes up to the normal temp range. Bridge E1 & TE1 in a DIAGNOSTIC port. Connect the ground of the light The inductive pick-up to the #1 spark plug wire Power wire When you point the light at the timing guide, it should rear 10*btdc @ idle. The engine itself is very de-tuned. You can try retarding to 7*btdc, or advancing to 17*btdc in a quest for better throttle responce, and a few hoursepower. Even at 7* of base advance (17*btdc) you shouldn't have to run anything more than 87 pump gas.

AFA brake fluid, I had been using the cheap coastal & flushing it out every year. I've since swapped to walmart Super Tech dot3 for all the normal cars. I run dot4 in the Lexus. I've had problems boiling even fresh dot3 fluid doing some mountain runs, or a lot of extremely high speed braking. If we were all rich, we'd be running 4.1/4+/5.1 (same stuff), but then changing brake fluid would cost more than swapping the engine oil, powersteering, transmission & differential to AMS synthetic fluids!

My #5th favorite thing. To each, his own.