Toysrme

Yes they do... Toyota - like most manufs of the period have the same problems with the head gaskets. On the truck 3vz-e, 5vz-fe, and all Toyota I4's 88-95 have external leaking problems. All Toyota v6's atleast 88-October'96 have head gasket blowing problems. The head gaskets were not revised until October 1996. Obviously... Any v6 built before that is prone to gaskets blowing, and/or external leaking (in the case of the truck v6's).

There are tons of gen3 Camry's over 300,000 miles. The car itself would probably last a million, if not two.

No. Like anything if you were just that into it, you could check the torque on the bolts, but then you have to tear it all off & re-do it. It's pretty much either making a gasket out of something that lasts longer - like RTV. I've found better than stock is buying new bolts+rubber isolation washers from the local nut & bolt house & when installing a new gasket, you could up the torque to say 15 lb-ft. Stock is like 50-70in-lb(4-6lb-ft) depending on the engine. The trick is doing it 5 lb-ft at a time as the aluminum threads in the heads are very easy to strip out.

Timing belt + water pump would be about $400. In all honesty the tab for doing all of that should be like $450-550. A valve cover gasket is $12 Intake plenum gasket is like an exhaust gasket MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) They are re-useable. $10-15 for one of those new. Cams seals, crank seals are $20-30 all together. Hell... You can buy the master gasket set for any Toyota on ebay for $100-$140 & have it shipped to your door. I hope you've got some KY, because for that price you're getting raped.

Normally the rotors are warped & should have been turned, or replaced. I would just go get the rotors turned as long as they can do it in-spec. Typical cost for turning one is like $15 a pop so it's not a big deal. May be a little more if you can't take the rotor off yourself & deliver it. Keep in mind, it takes new brake pads 50-100 miles of easy driving to break in. It takes new brake rotors 1,000 miles to brake in. Anytime you get new brake rotors, you need to go easy on them while they brake in -> or they'll be prone to either warping, or scoring (from pad surface).

I think you're in danger of getting screwed. (As in you are getting screwed) Any honest mechanic is going to realize the vacuum leak is going to cause your main problem (stalling) & if there is a knock sensor CEL - it's going to be due to the engine knocking out of spec. The correct way is to fix the vacuum leak, reset the ecu (Pull the EFI fuse a second & replace it) THEN see if you have any problems left. & you never said anything about a check engine light being on... Was your check engine light on? If not - you don't need knock sensors. I think you're paying for at most a $70-100 part & getting robbed for 600.

I'm not being mean but come on man. Rear plugs are most likely tied with wheels as the most asked - should have searched answer of ALL TIME on every transverse v6 forum. Heck even if it aint a Toyota the answer's pretty much the same! It's possible with the right set of extensions & joints - a flexi shaft helps. or just take the upper intake off. That's a lot easier & you get to clean the inside of it & the IAC & throttlebody & improve reliability & gain bak lost power.

All of these are Toyota replacements. The first time fit is more traditional style. Purolator (Wix) VS FTF Purolator L14477 VS Advance Auto Parts Totalgrip AA4386 VS NAPA Gold 1396(Wix 51396) VS Denso 90915-YZZA1 Toyota F1 VS Proline Nippon Micro-Filter Denso VS Car Quest Denso (OEM USA) VS Nippon (OEM JDM) VS TRD

Well you've got a choice. Denso first time fits are the bestest most leet pwnage filter ever! (Unfortunately they're normally very hard to find! Mail order / ebay are the only reliable ways to find them!) Or you can buy a normal Denso oil filter for like $3-4 at a Toyota dealership. They come in two sizes, large & small - we use the larger one (not that it really matters).

There is no way without anylisys once it's begun mixing with the oil old in the system & there's any mileage on it at all. Just finish out your 5,000 miles on this oil change & swap to a good synthetic next time. Misc. info Denso filters are kick-!Removed!, stock up on them. Mobil 1 synthetic is the best oil you can easily buy. It's been on sale at our local super walmart for under $20 for a 5 quart jug for like two months now.

You won't have pre-cats at all if you buy that y-pipe. Werd. For whatever reason (probably low demand) anything involving an OEM cat is insanely expencive. Which then get's bloated another 15-30% depending on what kind of dealer you're talking with!

http://www.car-stuff.com/catalytic/quote.p...300&partid=3682 Buy that & put it in (If you have some jackstands), or have a shop do it. Or buy a generic cat convertor & have a shop build you a new custom Y-pipe for about the same thing & gain 10-20bhp peak out of it.

Ok, in the first place, you have a 3vz-fe. You have no reason to be running 91 octane. It will give you lower mileage, and lower performance as the engine was not designed to run with anything more than low octane gas. (Which in itself is a joke because they were further de-tuned in 92-93 to reduce performance). Changing the octane had nothing to do with anything, you just have bad luck! First... Check for vacuum leaks. Disconnected / broken hoses. The main culprit is always he hose that runs from the throttlebody to the Air-Flow Meter. If you check for vacuum leaks and swear you can't find any broke / split / disconnected hoses, check spark as you many have dropped a few cylinders. (The v6's are proven to run OK on 5). Replace the plugs with NGK, or Denso models & check the wires (DO NOT replace the wires with some cheap *BLEEP* from a store. Either spend the $100-110 for OEM wires, $120 for Vitek wires, or $250 for magnacore if your current wires are broken. Everything else is crap & will last a few months, then break.) If you got $15 to spend, go a head & replace the rotor & distributor cap. If it's not immediately better you probably burned up the cat with all the unburnt fuel through it. On the other hand, if you're getting clouds of white smoke you blew a head gasket. If you think it's a bad injector it is easily enough tested (But you gotta take the upper intake air chamber off -> no big deal) 1) Hook up a fuel pressure gauge 2) Disconnect all fuel injector harnesses but one -> Including the cold-start injector (So only one injector fires at a time) 3) Disconnect the wire between the ignition coil & Distibutor cap so there is no ignition 4) Turn the engine over By watching the drop in pressure across the injectors one at a time -> You can see which injector may be having a problem. I wouldn't run fuel injector cleaner through there for three reasons. 1) It's just so rare a Denso fuel injector is clogged in the first place & I think you have the exact opposite problem. -> Unburnt gas, not running lean. 2) If the cat is shot, it's going to be even worse when some cleaner is shooting in it. 3) Don't succumb to a "fuel injector" cleaning service either. To clean injectors they get taken out, taken off the car & either fully disassembled, or dunked into one of the sonic cleaning tanks -> then disassembled. Dealers will tell you they can do this, when in reality they just dump whatever generic fuel injector cleaner that's hella cheap into your gas tank.

Yep, vacuum leak all the way! You you got ate up on the labor, but at such a low cost it's not much. Probably $50. The parts cost is roughly $100 for the equivilant hose on any engine. If you really want it running like a charm. Pull the entire upper intake off & clean it by hand with a brush to get the carbon out. Then it'll look great!

You've answered all your own questions. Check the brake fluid level, replace broken tail lights, check EGR valve/sensor.

Pull them back out. The gaps come pre-set on any spark plug you're actually suppose to use. .043 Also the torque rating for the plugs in the aluminum head are 13lb-ft, not 19+. And lastly, if it's not an NGK, or Denso plug, you need to ditch it anyway. AFA the funny sound from the engine, it's either from poor combustion, a combustion chamber leak, or maybe a vacuum leak.

Kowalski. They are right, you are right. You do need spacers in your near future. You're smart to admit to that & we all feel better. No your studs are not going to snap off anytime soon. This is how most of us in the 4*4 world put larger wheels on the vehicle & see if they fit. Once you get into body lifts, you just can't check it anymore without getting in the outdoors & watching suspension travel. If we can do off-roading with them testing, you can drive on a normal road for awhile until the spacers get in. I promise a 4*4 can put more stress through the driveline in two hours of being off-road than a passenger car could in two or three months. On another note this thread is horrible, every post should be edited, and the thread locked for all time. It's a load of crap from EVERYONE. Don't any of the three of yall act like you're hands are clean. SK you knew it was coming as soon as you posted that first insulting remark. Don't try to spin it off. It was flat out insulting. (And continues to be insulting no matter which way you combine it with the sentence before it! :D ) SK I like you as a mod. I give you big props for not going too far in the posts, and still trying to contribute information even up to this point in the post! (Sk he had not insulted you at that point, you shouldn't call him a moron. That's was crossing a line on your own forum rules he hadn't yet even broken.) Kowalski you are mostly right... They shouldn't be such jerks towards you. You did own them hard core on the first post, and they did escalate it much farther than you ever could have. That's not an excuse for you to go breaking the rules. Nor should you as a newbie try to own people so established. Despite whoever is right, or wrong, one way or another they're going to win. SW dude you are completely out of control on this thread. The responses in this thread are nothing short of despicable, and in all honesty have no reason for ever being posted in the first place. I could write for two or three hours authoring a post on why your actions (Not kowalski's or SK's) is simply abusive for being abusive's sake, nothing more. Yes... You have conveyed yourself just that poorly.

There is.

1) Read the code / test the sensors by hand with a voltmeter. 2) NAPA is as overpriced on most of their parts as the OEMs are. Don't use them. 3) Replacing them is easy enough

Junkyard / Salvage yard. TAP Recycling has a good reputation in the Toyota world. Call them.

Um, don't push the brake stuff too much. I'm mean really you're talking like $15-30 to machine rotors & 20-$50 for pads. You'd like Lexus leather. The leather they used in 92, including 13 years of wear is better than what is in the most expencive chrystler, caddy, or L-daddy today. (That says alot, considering it got even better over the years!) Don't fear the leather LoL! It's all that, and lots stronger than most leather too.

Needs pads & rotors. No big deal. With the dealer installed option cloth seats & no moonroof, I wouldn't pay near 5 for it. (That's just me) That's missing out 1/2 the fun of a lexus. What people says doesn't mean *BLEEP*. You'd never be able to know if the car was babied or not. They're tanks, everything is going to work fine if they drove it off a cliff. Get the repair history of the car from Lexus / Toyota.

Awsome job!

It uses the transmission oil on yours. Keep changing the transmissionn fluid!!! Draining the pan doesn't change half the fluid in the system. You oughta buy about 10-12 quarts & flush the thing.

The IS will be better than the ES as a performance platform. is300.net You can't ask how many psi an engine can take, or what the output will be. PSI is irrelevant. When you're talking FI All that is important is the mass of air being compressed & shoved into the engine - not the pressure it is at. Most 2jz-ge's can take 500-600-650bhp stock with good, to top level tuning. The only major difference between a 2jz-ge, and a 2jz-gte is there are no oil squirters at the bottom of the piston. As long as you're not in search of all out power, & your tuning isn't going tot ry to melt a piston face - it won't matter.