Toysrme

Werd. supersyn is mobil's full synthetic. Greatest widely spread over the counter oil *ever*! 15000 is synthetic too. 7500 is a blend & 5000 is just great top tier dino. Both supersyn & 15000 say full synthetic somewhere on the jug.

Congrats on the good change! Na, it's normal for them not to want to go back in. Let's face it, you get them out with a large lever and/or sledge hammer LoL!

yeeaaaaaa, no.

Yep check the fuse.

Good call SK.

There's the yellow low oil level & red low oil pressure. For future reference: Low oil level is inconsequential. You can drive indefinitely if it's low on oil, so long as it can pick-up the correct amount of oil. The top quart is nothing more than extra. (Low oil level lights around a half quart under the top fill quart). If low oil pressure is EVER seen after cranking, the engine needs to be shut off immediately. The reason is that the oil pump can deliver enough pressure by spitting oil & building air pressure in the system to turn the low oil pressure light off.

Then the battery is weak, or the terminal has a poor connection. Oil is oil man, you're looking many times too deep into things... 1) clean the terminals no matter how good they look 2) check fluid level in the battery if it is a serviceable battery fill if needed 3) put battery on a charger The engine will turn over with no oil in it just as fast as it will with over two gallons of oil in it. Please, ask me how I happen to know LoL!

Dumb maximum image count LoL!

Remember to always buy a replacement half-shaft (That's the full axles for one side). Never replace just the offending CV joint. The cost difference is neglidgable. I would take a sharpie & right the rough date & mileage on the shaft before it goes back in too. The real 1994 Toyota Camry repair manual:

If the rear valve cover gasket is where the oil is leaking from (80% of the time it is) replacing it stops the oil leak. In any case, oil is slowly leaking out of the engine & replacing whatever gasket is allowing the oil to leak will fix the problem - so your dad is wrong.

Nearly any externial oil leak on the engine will find a way to drip onto the y-pipe where it smolders. The rear valve cover gasket is the most common cause.

Welp, something's shorting, or drawing waaaay too mcuh load somewhere. Start by load testing both the battery & alternator. If that doesn't show simply another faulty alternator, it's more than likely the lead wire going from the alternator to the charging system to the battery. Grab some 4 gauge, or larger, electrical wiring from a generic amplifier/subwoofer install kit. Upgrade "The Big Three" wires on the car. #1 Alternator to Battery (positive) #2 Battery to car body (ground) #3 Engine to body (ground) The kit will come with an in-line fuse. If you're smart, you'll buy the size fuse to match the alt's maximum output! (80amp, so an 80/90 amp fuse) Most generic kits cost $20-30. If you replace the wiring (which I think you need to do), and the SOB fails you one more time (Or is already gone), the Highlander has an optional 130amp alt that drops into 92-01 Camry/ES's. 130amps peak > 80 amps peak. 130amp alt makes more power at lower rpm also.

CV joints don't "clunk". They give a short snapping sound as the bearings shoot from one side to another & metal grinds. It's a staccato POP POP POP POP POP POP if they're severely worn, in the beginning they're just a few pops anytime the joint is moved far off center (turning). If *BLEEP* is clunking, check the engine & transmission mounts.

Nope.

Please come prepaired for class tomorrow people, you're not undergrads! Welcome to Advanced Server Banning 657. Our curriculum will consist of: Looking up an IP address Looking up the domain the IP runs on Looking up the domain to find the possible IP range of the offending IP's lowest level server. Culminating in how to ban an entire IP range, without banning a large amount of people.

Reallyfrustrated, they can all be affected by the weather. LEXUS OF RAMRAT, you're more annoying than my dog's !Removed! with roids.

1) Check for vacuum leaks 2) Clean the IAC valve (& EGR if your 2vz-fe has one) 3) Check for good spark (Rotor & cap) 4) Check timing Most people would tell you to check the fuel pump, but with only 95,000 m on that Denso pump, you've probably got another 15 years on it.

"and knowing is half the battle!"

Werd. FYI the plate lights don't trigger the bulb warning light.. (Atleast on a 92-93) I had to replace them in the spring. They had been out for years.

Great job!

Ya, chill monarch. In Josh's defence, a cooling problem isn't always an easy to notice thing. Unless you just happen to look at the gauge, you're not going to catch it until they're all ready boiling out of the purge tank. That is actually harder to notice than initially seems obvious because the hoods fit down tight enough to have all the padding to semi-seal it. What comes out is totally invisible when the car is moving. You can see a tiny bit of steam when the car is stopped. If you don't catch the boil-over, you won't notice it at all until the head gasket<s> are blown & coolant starts dumping in the combustion chambers. It's noticeble then because the engine bogs down during an idle, and when you take off from a stop, you get a huge cloud of white coolant from the tailpipe. AFA overheating damage... It really depends on what's overheating & what is causing it. If there is any coolant circulating in the system, it's counter-intuitive not unlike a tire blowout is. If a tire blows out, don't immediately let off the gas!!!You can easily loose control. Keep your foot on the gas, if not accelerate some to keep the vehicle stabalized. Then slow to a stop. Overheating is the same boat. If there is coolant circulating, we all know to turn the heater to max, turn the fan on & roll the windows down. What many people don't realize is that if coolant is circulating, you need to raise the RPM on the engine, while raising the load on the engine as little as possible. If you stop & cut the car off, you'll have a much higher chance to crack/warp the block/heads, or blow a headgasket. Same if you let the car idle, or drive at a low rpm. The coolant circulation greatly lowers, causing more overheating that is out of check. What you should do, is speed the vehicle up to a slow highway speed (say 50-60mph), and stay in a higher rpm gear than you need. This not only keeps coolant circulating more, but the added airfow throuhg the radiator by itself can take an overheating car back down into normal levels.

^ & so I could rip parts of it up like an *BLEEP*! You push the remote On/Off switch to ON. You stand within a few feet of the car & push the key on the side of the button. If you hear click, it works. If you don't hear click, the remote battery is dead, or the car battery is dead. Not sure if anyone has run across a case where the actual remote equipment failed, I can't recall anything about it. Replace the batt in the key.

That is just a really bad idea. PM me, I will send you some oil hose if you promise to put it on ASAP. :) The MGB is leaking!¡!

There have been a few people rolling 20's. Don't do it. All but one (that I can recall) looked like ghetto,* crap. To each, his own *Note the comma, as the look both like crap, and ghetto seperately, not together.

Devote yourself: The Book of Camry The Book of Windom The Book of ES The Book of Vista There are a billion things built off the Camry platform at this point. I can't keep track.