Toysrme

Change them both, buy a new hood & inspect the entire suspension tower geometry. I'm not even gonna touch maint so low you have a strut break throguh the mount & hit the hood LoL!

Cylinder #4 Cylinder #6 I've been off water injection for a while now. But you can see the MASSIVE amount of difference it can make just by looking at the combustion chamber -> Mint. The valve cutouts for the piston ->Spotless. Water Injection PWNS WI2WIN Coolant + Oil + Exhaust + 80psi pump = Somebody take that batter & make some muffins!

!¡iYepi¡! Some of you have known for a month, but here's the first round of pics for the front head. The cool thing tho, is notice how a can of Seafoam (applied following their directions, in 1/3 of a can intervale - that's 2/3 of a cup - through the intake) Completely nuked the carbon from the combustion chambers. (For people that don't know, disregard any fluid in any picture, it dumps in when you break the seal to the intake manifold & the cylinder heads - it is not due to leaking) This time last year when I replaced the head gaskets the first time & did the head porting: (Combustion chamber & valves after a 5hp pressure washer full out) This time: Cyl #6 (Normal) Cyl #4 (note the carbon build-up where the head gasket is blown) *edit* swapped to second PB account.

You 'fed up. Get a new bumper. Even at a young age, the first time isn't going to impact the insurance rate. if it was her first time, no harm, no foul. if she does it all the time, they're going to teach her one way or another to pay attention.

Cool. About TAP, their site only stays semi-current so if you just browsed it, be sure to call, or email them! Good luck with the search!

The engine will run the lowest octane you dare buy just fine. Tho everything runs like !Removed! on E-85. Don't use that crap! The older VZ blocks have more in common with old iron than you think. Don't let basic EFI scare you! All I could tell you is find, or ask someone about the location of the o2 sensor on a 2vz, then check yours.

Welcome! Code 25 Air/Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction The Air/Fuel ratio feedback correction value or adaptive control value continues at the upper (lean), or lower (Rich) limit for a certain period of time Code 26 Air/Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction The Air/Fuel ratio is overly rich Open or short circuit in the oxygen sensor If you think it's missing a cylinder, just pull the rear bank spark plug wires one at a time. If it runs the same when you pull a certain wire - that cyl is having problems. Otherwise, I would replace the o2 sensor with the cheapest Bosch splice in unit you can find. The 2vz-fe seires II used for 90-91 has an o2 sensor. 87-89 Seires I had no o2 sensor If they put an 87-89 made 2vz-fe in your car; not having any form of o2 feedback, obviously, you will throw codes 25 & 26. I think they put the earlier engine in your car (or you've got like a broken o2 connector). It's very, very, very, very unheard of for the old OBD-I ECU's to complain about the A/F ratio no matter how far of it is. The only time they even store codes for it is when you put them in Diagnostic mode. If you have the wrong engine, after you burn their shop down, either get the pipe where the o2 sensor goes off another engine, or drill holes in your pipe to weld a bung on.

Hahahahahaha Driving noobs shouldn't go to racetacks. He shoulda got his track-day money back. He shouldn't have been there. It's like the famous in-car video of the wrx in the rain. Noob goes into a corner a billion times harder than he should & he wrecks hard. Served him right too.

Crappy. I see 3500 in body damage, save actually having to fix any mechanical damage with the suspension, or frame. Glad you're OK. Wait, I didn't notice the rear 1/4 panel bent in, make it 4500-4750 in body damage! And whatever an alignment costs at least.

http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php For what the 30,000m service consists of I would do it at the house yourself. That way you can drain the pan on the transmission & get it done. If you're smart, you'll buy a transmission cooler from a junkyard, some hose clamps & a few feet of 5/16" fuel/oil hose. Add it after the stock cooler. Mount if with zipties if you need to. It's a $25-30 project that will cut the chance of early transmission failure more than 90%. Do it while t's young, not when it has 150,000 miles on it & you start to get worried about it!

Sometimes you can find them on ebay. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?c...ight&category0= Best bet would be to get in touch with a salvage/junkyard. http://www.taprecycling.net/modules.php?se...=view_album.php has a good reputation in the Toyota community.

Shhhhhh they don't like that here! :whistles: (They're just jealous only the really old ES's have the torque on the *BLEEP*y stock 2600rpm convertor to actually achieve descent burning rubber!) It's all good. The EFI in your car is hellaciously easy to understand. Distributor sends the crankshaft(NE) & two cam signals(G1,G2) to the ECU to relay engine timing AFM's flap(VS) & temp sensor(THA) are used by the ECU to determine the MASS of airflow entering the engine ECU then determines the base of how much(&when) fuel to give & ignition timing Which is then adjusted by the coolant temp sensor(THW) if coolant is normal, or cold Which is modified by the TPS signal during throttle transitions Which is alllll brought back together by the o2 sensor for fine adjustment during closed loop. Easy! =)

sovietlexus it's his first car, he doesn't have a mechanic. I just hope dad paid for the repair bill so next time he'll listen to us LoL!

Lexus finally get's a real sporty car! http://www.toyota.co.jp/en/news/05/1012.html

I've never heard of it. It normally takes human being's a large lever & a sledge hammer to get the axles out. With the enigne running reach over & pull the throttle open by hand. If the engine bucks a few inches I guess it's possible in theory.

If it has a transmission kick-down cable, adjust it. Glad to hear it's still doing fairly well!

You answered your own question. Most, generally, stop working at 100-120,000 miles anyways. They really should be replaced every 100.

No problem. It's not like I'm sinking money into mine. Just isntead of paying tons of money, I'm spending time. Here comes the JDM 3vz-fe pretty soon tho...

mmmm Ya. I'm sure Lexues doesn't see many 2vz-fe's anymore, but it's the same deal with them as it is everything else. If the Toyota SST doesn't immediately get to the plugs easy enough, you take the intake manifold off. My *BLEEP*ing MOM could take about 45 min to get the upper intake manifold off by HERSELF. That wouldn' fly with me. You got screwed on the plug wires. All the v6 plug wires I've seen from Toyota cost like $90-110. Call a Toyota dealer & ask them what a set of '91 v6 Camry wires cost. (I'll call mine if I get a chance tomorrow on what the parts cost) $240 for fluids. That's pushing it. I guess if labor's included in that it's OK. $90 for the transmission flush, then They could probably straggle around for an hour changing the P/S & differential fluids & brake fluid. Plugs, ya. I been telling people abut the $10-15 plugs! Fuel filter shoulda cost like $15-20. At the rate their going, I'm pretty sure the D cap got broken. They don't clean the upper intake, don't you dare pay for it!!! They shoot throttlebody/carb cleaner down it. That doesn't do anything. If you want it cleaned it takes a wire brush, pressure washer, or a rotary tool. Rust on the body of the converter has nothing to do with how it preforms. Hey! Here's mine sawzalled in half & welded back together! I'm not downing anything here, 'cause a bunch of yall, my friends, have sunk an assload of money into 250's. My !Removed! would have sold the !Removed! in the paper & bought a Miata & an old volvo/saab to drive by this point. If I get the time, I'll call the local Toyota dealer & see what all of that would cost from then. $1200 for maintenance. I'd be livid.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=24703 Download the 1994 Camry repair manual, or go to techinfo.toyota.com & see if you can download all of them for the $10 a day free. If they don't have a 91 ES250, check the 91 Camry.

Shifter/cable broken/damaged. Maybe a stuck shift solenoid. Count how man gears it changes while drive. Obviously 4 is a good number!

Whaaaaaat 1200-1500 for shift solenoids? No way! Check the attached pic for where they're located at. Download the 1994 Camry repair manual & open the A541E transmission pdf. Use it's directions for testing everything.

Sick your head down into the engine bay & triangulate the position of the noise. Otherwise we can't really help you, we're all just guessing. Whining can be any of a thousand things rotating, but most likely a belt, or something belt driven. Ticking could be anything moving that isn't lubricated.

It's on the transmission. A540 had dual speed sensors (electronic & manual backup off the gauge) A541 despenced of the backup sensor (SS#1), and just kept the electronic SS#2 sensor. You oughta be able to replace it. Download the 1994 Camry repair manual http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=425159 Go to a junkyard & pull one off & swap yours. They're very low failure rate items. If you're going to change it youself, I don't see why you'd pay three-ten times more for a new unit.

;) Wait till you grab a timing light & go to 14-17*btdc timing. peak horsepower & horsepower overall won' really change much. But it'll shift the powerband a couple hundred RPM earlier & throttle responce will get much better!