Toysrme

Stock N/A 20-24mpg combined (Mostly highway) Peak N/A power, 28mpg highway. (stock is good to get 25) Turbo, sub 20mpg. Now, 18-24mpg. Something like that.

It's do-able, god know's I've repainted mine a hundred times now in spots with good results. You have to be inately patient & work your !Removed! off for it not to look like like you just pulled the brush out of the bottle & dabbed it on. I know. I've got three or four I just did half assed & they stand out. I'll have to take the time to wet sand them back down & do it all over again. :\ www.autopia.org is where you need to learn at. Instructions here.

The main flap doesn't change much @ idle. Avoid using the cog to make changes. It will really crap the powerband. (There is an idle bypass screw under a plug that can be drilled out, but this is not your problem) Any intake style will not make any change at all to how the car will run. You've more than likely got a post AFM vacuum leak.

92-96 Haynes Camry Manual is all you need. There is the 1994 Camry repair manual on TN for download. Note it has a 1mz-fe & 5s-fe & the transmission had a few changes. I'm not a Chilton's fan. I threw mine away. Haynes has illustrations on things where it's helped it. www.techinfo.lexus.com also for the repair pdf's.

>_> :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: Apparantly you've not considered the possibility that there are 20,000-40,000 members on every descent Lexus / Toyota oriented forum. It's the most reliable name on the planet, and the ES has been the most reliable car on the planet for a lot of it's fairly short lifespan. If you think there are a lot of problems, you need to go spend time on non Toyota oriented forums. 'nuff said.

Promise to speak english instead of 12 year old speak & I'll be happy to run through all the options you have!

All the IAC, EGR, or TB's will eventually stick. It's simply what happens when you pump the carbon in the exhaust back through the intake regardless of the engine. ^ even more so for these v6's. They pump tons of exhaust. The newer engines all have throttle by wire, which will eleminant IAC problems. They'll still get dirty throttle plates, but it won't matter nearly as much.

Same mechanics, same parts, lower cost. Only thing a Toyota dealer won't do is give you a new Lexus to drive while they service it. Three basic Toyota / Lexus oil filters. They all cost $4. Buy one from a Lexus dealer, $31. Same for lug nuts & everything else you ever price. Lexus dealers are a joke. :\ I'd only use them for warrenty work.

Hole in the y-pipe, hole in/rusted out muffler / resonator, or the exhaust pipes have become unbolted. Just put the car on a ramp, or jackstands & slide under the front. Look for holes.

SMT, E-Manage, SAFC, FTC1, Unichip or a full blown EMS. Only option.

Probably the PS belt, or alt/assesory belt whining. Replace them both. AFA the cooling problem. Sounds to me like the Power steering pump relay is unpluged. Crank the car. Open the diagnostics port & bridge E1 & OP1. The powersteering fan should go to it's high speed. If it doesn't, the relay is unpluged. The wiring connector is located on top of the PS pump. Reachable by the top of the engine bay, or through the acess panel in the passanger wheel. If that's OK, replace both caps (Radiator & intake manifold) & the thermostat.

I was getting 22-24mpg bone stock. Mixed driving, but mostly high speed highway. Pre turbo, peak N/A tune I got 28mpg highway. (ya... Try that with a 3vz-fe) Don't know what it was with the turbo. Right now I'm back down to 24 highway, 15mpg combined. Damned Walbro 255 is killing my !Removed!... I'm about ready to just run water injection all the time and lean that son of a !Removed! out all it'll go & still run.

Pull the electrical connector off the No.1 solenoid & put it back on. Pull the EFI fuse for a second to reset the ECU. If it comes back, replace the solenoid. Nothing to it.

Unbolt the cover & look.

Yes, the 10 amp haz fuse.

From the back I assume you mean the firewall side. Oil pan gasket Rear main seal Head gasket Valve cover gasket Bottom to top.

Welp, if you open the trunk, open a door (inside or out) or open the hood. It will set off the alarm until you put the key in the ignition. Now I have a '93 ES, so keep in mind I don't have 20 grand to loose, but to me the factory system is good enough if you don't have thousands of dollars of things laying in your car to be stolen. (I have some money in the stereo, but you couldn't actually take it out easily so, I don't really care!)

O/D on (no light). All cars will get better gas mileage with over drive gears enabled. All ES's are equipped with a factory alarm. I have a different engine, but the same general design. Take the upper intake air chamber off: minus Youre left with this: Take the fuel & coolant things off the intake manifold & remove the intake manifold: The two white things that screw in are the knock sensors:

Ah come on that was hillarious LoL! Gotta be able to admit when you didn't pin it down. ;)

Awsome! Where's sk when you need him?

All the Camry plants swapped over in October 1994. The Tsutsumi assembly plant built the full Camry platform family during that time period: ES, Windom, Sceptor, Camry, Vista. So in the intrests of keeping the same parts bin, it's safe to reason the ES / Windom's swapped over at the same point the Camry's did. Doesn't make since to build a few practically identicle car lines, but swap parts out for no reason.

Get a second opinion, there are dozens of thinsg that can cause burning oil.

A non functioning light should fail every check in the US. Call TAP. Good reputation, Toyota brand specific, lots of hard to find stuff. (Normally tons of ES's to pull parts from).

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ssion++shifting Make sure the cables are in the middle of the road adjustment. If you have to, take the pipe off & make sure the throttle plate is in a closed position.

No, you won't have any trouble. The EFI fuse cuts the power to the computers. Everything else keeps power. (Radio clocks, ect) No, no drive by wire. New change of plan since I re-read the first post. Between the high idle (Open Throttle plate) & funny shifting pattern. It sounds like there is extra tension on the throttle cable & the transmission kick-down cable. What he did was change the tension on the cables when he took them off. Look back to my quicker transmission shifting guide as a visual aid on what's happened. He probably has the throttle cable tightened too much so that the plate never closes. This also keeps added pressure on the kick-down cable lowering the amount of throttle it takes to *BLEEP* & stiffening the shift some.