Toysrme

·$1,500 is a couple hundred to high, but a common price to pay. ·I wouldn't worry about oil damage yet. The minimum spec is 3, or 4 psi at idle. They don't use much oil when there isn't many rpm. ·Any oil leak on the rear bank of the engine will dump oil striaght to the y-pipe where it will burn & cause tons of smoke. Unless he took a hammer & beat the hell out of your head to un-seal it - No the tech didn't screw it up. You have to pull out the valvetrain itself to evneg et to the head bolts. What I'm saying, is you've got *BLEEP*ty luck. Anywho ya, sounds like a head gasket is gone. Fill it back up with oil, warm the engine up & do a compression check. That's the only way to accurately tell if a head gasket is blown. I would check ignition timing too. If it is a head gasket problem, go ahead & buy a high-flow cat convertor off Ebay & have it welded in. Your cat's probably dead if not clogging from the petrolium goodies running through it. Do you mean the car won't run at all over 1000rpm? 750rpm +/-100rpm is an idle. Keep in mind many v6's from the Toyota family will get a free headgasket replacement. When you do a compression check & confirm it is a blown HG, you need to call a few Lexus & Toyota dealers to ask if it is eligeable for a HG replacement.

Junkyard time bud. 5 10mm nuts.

Ya that seems fairly contradictory to what everyone else has experianced. If you put it back, reset the ECU if it starts bogging again & see what happens. How far did you adjust the cog again? o2 sensors are probably on their way out, if not dead @ 120,000m. I lost both mine by 105, just change done a few weeks back. But normally it can figure that out. What you can do is hook a multi-meter up to each one & see how long it takes them to warm up. What kind of mileage is it? I consider 22-25mpg in mixed driving to be normal on a stock car.

Just check the cable. ;) 4000rpm into 2250rpm is fairly normal. About everyone uses a 2.75-3 first gear into a 1.75-1.65 second gear.

1st 2.810 - 29mph @ 4500rpm 2nd 1.549 - 30mph @ 2250rpm 3rd 1 - 47mph @ 2250rpm O/D .735 - 63mph @ 2250rpm No you're fine. That's second gear. Check the transmission kick-down cable.. It may be a long way out of adjustment. It should be in the middle of the range.

It won't start won't cut it. We need more information. Will it not crank, or not run? Crank = Turning over Run = Engine fires up What does it sound like when you try to start it? Lastly, scan the car & find out what the trac is on for.

Oh My God It takes twenty seconds to fire my compressor up. If anyone wants to pay me $300 to give a few shots of compressed air in your A/C vents I'll be glad to DRIVE to where ever you are. I'll even throw in charging the A/C & blowing air in the A/C drain / evap valve free of charge! ROTFLMAO! Dude you got ripped up bad.

I wouldn't pay more than $300-400usd, and most of that is labor, figuring out what exactly the problem is. A mechanic experianced on any Toyota v6 is going to be looking at the knock sensors in no more than a 1/2 hour. I just tore down to mine on my 3vz-fe in 15 min yesterday, including the two valve covers! So it's going to be an hour of labor from a Lexus/Toyota/Import mechanic. You can also call some junkyard/salvage yards / ebay for 1mz-fe knock sensors. $30-50usd for a used sensor is about right.

1):chairshot: That's SK's way of telling you should search first. Knock sensors are covered on every Toyota/Lexus v6 forum to death. 2) 1mz-fe's are notorious for having over sensitive knock sensors. You should run your tank of gas low (18.5 gallon tank), refill with high octane fuel & reset the ECU (Pull the EFI fuse a second & replace) 3) 90% of the time the wiring is damaged - the knock sensor is fine. A knock sensor is nothing more than a piezo in a metal housing. Nothing to break less a mechanic does it during repairs, or the sensor shorts out (that falls under bad wiring). 4) It's a two piece intake manifold, some wires, some hoses, some cables, a fuel rail. Not engineering a new insulation foam for the space shuttle that the EPA says is "environmentally friendly". You need a normal set of tools: Normal & deep well metric sockets. Specifically 10, 12, 14 mm with extensions Lexus provides cheap chrome coated wrenches 8/10, 14/16 mm in your tool pouch If you're smart; you'll get a brush & some type of strong cleaning agent, and clean the entire upper intake air chamber (the actual name for the upper intake), including everything connected to it. (Throttlebody, ISC & EGR valves) Have some RTV silicon on hand incase you break a paper gasket.

Not 1mz-fe's.

Make sure the flip-down portion closes before it contacts the ashtray's line of travel.

The engine redline is 6850rpm, the cut-off is 7000rpm +/-100rpm. If you blow it up I'll buy it.

This has been discussed many times. Search. $800usd is a good price. $1200 should be average. Anymore and you're over-paying - less they are doing a lot of additional, un-related work.

I can't make heads or tails of most of that post. It's too confusing. How do you know you don't have access to second? From a dead stop floor the pedal. What RPM does the engine shift out of first gear (5000-6100rpm), and what does the RPM drop to? Here is the shifting pattern of the solenoids:

Pull the carpet back on the center consol where the driver's right foot is. Behind the glove box is where the blower is. It has a non-replaceable (I.e. you could rip it off & glue/tape a new one on) foam filter - reminescant of a small engine air filter (lawnmower) on it for recirculating cabin air. That is not to be confused with the filter you are looking for.

I wouldn't know. :D Anyone else?

I can't help you with the alarm. :'( I *can* tell you the blinker system has 100% nothing in common with the A/C & Radio system. I'm betting somebody put something into her cig lighter port & found out Lexus/Toyota doesn't put much wiring to the cig lighter. They can't draw much more than charging a cell phone without blowing fuses, or melting the wiring! :D Live & learn!

never heard of a system being tripped from carbon in the lines. Maybe I'm mis-informed. Personally, I would be hitting up a junkyard for a Toyota EVAP canister. Find one from a 1mz-fe Camry, Avalon, Highlander, RX 300. I would bet any working evap canister would work. What you need to note is it's really a pain in the !Removed! to get to them hah! Not too bad tho. ;)

No mud flaps, tho if she's hard up Camry flaps would probably work with no, or little modifycation. I'm against it, it'll disturb the look & stick out. To each, his own.

Sorry. IDK the spec. Haynes says "tighten securly" & I came home from a week of popa sitting yesterday to find everything adobe isn't working... (So no camry manual reading for me!) I'd just wrench down on them, leave the undercover off & chekc them after a few days.

No. ;)

Honestly, I think the swept back headlights, or "brow lift" as i like to call it, of the last few years is rediculous. Personally, if I owned one, I would buy the matching touch up paint NOW before the color starts to fade (unless you have black, time is of the essence), mask off a better looking shape & pay someone to spray it. That's what I would do. ;) I'm not a fan of vynil covers. "eyelids". I've never thouht they looked good, but I think painting one would look a ton better on the newer ES's!

I saw it. You won't find any of that in English. There is a difference between not being fluent & chatting like a 13 year old. :\ Not that I'm any good at English, I don't pretend to be. That doesn't mean people shouldn't at least attempt it for everyone else's sake. N/A Buy the header/y-pipe assembly from Australia (15-25bhp) / custom make them. Port & polish the heads Run enough n2o to make 300bhp Custom turbocharger or Swap a 3.0L 3vz-fe in it. I wouldn't try to run more than 280-300bhp on the 2.5L v6's. They've got the same weaker style parts the S blocks have. The Camry / ES / Windom E-153 5-speed transmission obviously swaps. The MR2 / Celica E-153 also swaps, but the shift is on the wrong side, so that must be corrected (minor mod). Axles for the differential will need to be swapped to Camry platform axles. The MR2 / Celica had a few different optional / standard LSD's. Noone has ever swapped one to any Camry platform that I know of, but it should work with the right axles for anyone that feels like trying.

Ya, there are a bunch of piggybacks. That's just the kinda short list. 10bhp to gain from it. Don't expect lots.

Same as everything else I've ever heard of, or worked on. Low side fill only.