Toysrme

Low transmission fluid Make sure it will rev up to 6, 7000rpm in neutral without a problem & that it's not just an engine problem. In any event you need to check the transmission fluid IMMEDIATLY, it takes about 10-15 min of driving on low fluid to burn the clutches up - requiring a new unit, or a rebuild. Warm the engine up idling & shift throguh all the gears. Get out & check the transmission fluid against the HOT marks (high set)

Wow that's crazy! First time for everything I guess!

We're swapping Mustang GT brakes on it & lemmie know when we're welding in the turbooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!! Or we can just do a ton of n2o & blow it up and uninstall it and go "huh"? :D

Jet fuel is easier to make than gas, 5mpg is AWSOME! That's better than most v8 350cid+ full size pick-ups when they're towing stuff!!!! Anyone ever seen how much fuel oil goes into a big ship? Holy crap!

Snow sucks, move south, end of discussion! ROTFLMAO! This is the second in a seires of threads that got off track and fairly well makes us all look retarded LoL! Let's just change to Lexonda Owners Club! Seriously! :D bawahahahahahahahaha

After you clean the throttlebodies by hand, check for vacuum leaks.

Clean the idle valve on the back side of the throttle body. You might as well clean everything there, idle valve, throttlebody, egr valve. You can pick up 5-10bhp to get back tos tock power by taking the entire upper intake air chamber off & cleaning the SOB. The intake cakes with carbon from EGR & it impeads the flow & you loose power.

Oh dear god it's in the middle of nowhere, you can see what's comming, and it's good to know how far you can push a car. I know a semi- truck came within feet of hitting me head on with both of us going 60mph. Had I not know exactly how quicka Protege could change lanes, I'd either be dead from a head on with a semi, or dead from spinning out & haivng someone t-bone me. I grew up driving 140-160mph & driving through great twisties throguh northern Alabama, along with off-roading & some mild dirt racing. Then again, I couldnt drive *BLEEP* on ice, never done it. Christ just let it go! This is more of a WTF!? for both of you than anything else at this point. SW, starting in with the Army thing, that's fairly lame blow, especially from staff... Just lock the thread and let it die sheesh.

Who knows what they were thinking on the timing. It's really odd, because no other VZ block, even the semi-related SOHC 3vz-e can take the timing like we can. They all start pinging around 14*, some 3vz-e's ping normally at 10* LoL! Um the ducts shouldn't leak if you leave them out. The wipers have a winter/summer position. Normally they're under the hood out of sight, but you can like flip a connector, or switch, or wire and they'll go up into the winter position. (Look in Alabama we have no need for such things LoL) I would suggest taking 20psi of compressed air and blowing in the sunroof hole drains tho. The sunroofs don't leak because they're designed to leak, they just flow it right out under the car, but if the drains back up it'll get all in the car. I had that happen a few months ago. Springs, tons of good ones. Just take whatever drop you want. TRD/Eb's for the Camry are only 1.25", can't even see it on the front. The Solara ones are 1.5". There are a bunch of springs 1.5-1.75" drop. I like Intrax. Whiteline Camry springs are the pimpest ever, but good luck - you'll have to find their USA importer, or get them from Australia! Rear sway bar can make a huge difference. Whiteline, or TRD. TRD is two position, whiteline falls between the TRD settings. Personally, either buy the whtieline, or leave the TRD on the track setting. Skip tower braces, they don't do anything but smack the intake, or hit the hood.

Ohhhh, when you do struts, ours are serviceable... Don't buy the recharge kit. Just buy newer struts from december '94-'96 ES/Camry. And the rear brake rotors are larger than a Camry's by like a 1/2". (We share our braking system with the Camry wagon)

Nope no problems, it's severly under timed and over fueled from the factory. That's why 92-93 3vz-fe's are 184bhp@5800rpm 199lb-ft@4600rpm, while the 94-97.5 3vz-fe's (Not seen in North America have 200@5800 204@4600. Mechanically they're the same (Well not entirely, non NA cars have no EGR system.) Funny story, some guy with a 3vz-fe Camry leaned it out a bit, then gave it 20*btdc base timing & went to the drag strip. The timing killed him and he added about a second & a half over what his 1/4 mile time should have been! - hahahaha. Then there was the time I was rebuilding mine & somehow drove around on 40*btdc for a few days till I started wondering why it was pinging. Duh! For whatever reason, ours are really resilliant to detonation. Who nows why. Na, there shouldn't be a sensor problem with seafoam. 02 sensor are probably lazy & the cat is probably getting ready to go, if it hasn't. Mine was "descent" at 106,000 miles, Sean's was dead way before 100,000 so... Who knows. You can buy generic splice in Bosch o2 sensors for like $30. I like them! With the o2 sensors, I like them to be prevent maint around every 100-120,000 miles, because with us, it's just $60 to put new ones in & takes like a 1/2 an hour. If you do some minor tuneup stuff & you're getting about 22mpg combined, they're still working well enough tho.

Trust me, the engine is running like a dog! Warm the engine up. Take a can of seafoam & pour/suck 1/3 of it into the intake via the vacuum testing port, or brake booster line. Immediately shut it off & let it sit 5 min. Crank the engine... Let it idle 5-10 min until the billowing smoke dies down then drive it around until the smoking goes away. I suggest holding a few low gears and letting it pull up through at least the redline (6250rpm) up into the 6850-7000rpm range a few times. Do that 3 times in a row! Put a 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil next time you change it. Put the other half in the gas tank when you stop to fill it up. Clean the ACIS flap on the passanger side of the intake, clean the throttle body & idle valve. Adjust the throttle cables to take any stretch out of them. Adjust the transmission kick-down cable to be a little more sporty (I made a thred on that) Cut the top off the Air-Flow Meter & adjust it a few clicks LEANER. Set the engine into diagnostic mode-1 (Diagnostic port, bridge E1 &TE1). With an ignition timing light & advance the distributor 14-17* btdc from the 10*btdc stock timing. Continue to run the cheapest 87 octane you can. :P Eventually take the upper intake air chamber (commonly misnomered the itnake manifold) and clean it by hand & change the spark plugs. NGK, or Denso plugs ONLY. Then it'll run very smoothly & like a top! Trust me, from the carbon build-up & crap in it, you aint seen smooth yet.

Looks almost like mine, just green & virgin! Yours looks like Sean's. Get the alignment checked by a good place, it's pretty rare the suspension geometry parts & bearings wear out on the old ones. If the A/C is still R12, buy some cans of Freeze 12 & recharge it after you make sure the valve is OK. If it's 134a, check the pressure, if it's not good big cans are like $10. Ewwwww god, never use armorall, or other "shiney" products on leather. They're all petrolium based & severly dry leather out regardless of hat they say. (Leather should be a matte finish, not shiney!) The best stuff you can buy is Lexol. You can try it. I have one gallon jugs of cleaner, and conditioner, about $20 a gallon. If you just wanna try it you can get the little spray bottles. Ya, it seems like I keep trying to kill my '9 so I can get an old Miata and turn it into a track car, but the damned thing just won't keel over no matter what I do.

LoL! Yours has the fake cherry too!? I prefer the smell of Lexol. If the smell wears out, it's time to re-clean the leather! :D

P0171 Fuel system lean, 2 trip logic When A/F ratio feedbakc is stable after engine warming up, the fuel trim is considerably in error on the RICH side. (Engine is running lean, fuel trims are out of spec adding fuel) P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction No knock sensor 2 signal to ECM with engine speed 2,000 rpm or more. They shouldn't have let you out the door without plugging in the tester & going for a 5 min drive. The end result is you blew the engine up just the same as if you were running a 500bhp turbo, or nitrous shot just cruising down the highway. Same damage, just takes longer. No, when swapping engines, the manifolds & o2 sensors 90% of the time come on the engine as it's easier to leave them there & unbolt the pipe from them. (4 nuts, VS 12) I would find out what the codes are now. If you don't have a multi-meter to start testing parts, or don't feel like paying bad techs to continue to troubleshoot, just start buying parts from a junkyard. Start with the MAF.

Ya LoL! Exactly. Cleaning the IAC takes like 10 min with some carb cleaner, a brush if it's bad. Never let any car dealer touch your car's paint. Evne if they scratch it while the hoods up. Just tell the service manager to give you $40-50 for it so you can go to an actual detailer, or painter to have it fixed. Dealers have this nasty habit of letting mechanics iwth dirty towels touch the paint, or 15-18 year olds making $10 an hour clean it. Neither of which - give a freak, or use proper equipment / technique. It's cool tho. $200 overpay really isn't that much compaired to some things! LoL!

Brake squealing is not indecitive of system age. It's either the piston to shim, shim to brake pad back, or brake pad face to rotor. jakemj8402 Akebone ProACT pads are the OEM pads. Either do them, or Hawk HPS pads. HPS's are the greatest pad every made for street / race use. Either buy some generic rotor, or buy some Brembo blanks. Just make sure whatever you buy is not a drilled rotor & you're !Removed! yourself on pad life with sloted rotors without gaining anything from them. (Less you actually do more than a few laps 100% at a real road racing facility) FLUSH (not bleed) the brake fluid with fresh dot3 (if you're cheap), or dot 4 fluid every 3 years.

There are a billion junked ES's out their. Call a junkyard/salvage place & buy a door. -> Swap the parts over & resell it sto someone. That way it doesn't matter if you F up your leather, plastic or anything else.

Ya it's cool, it just *BLEEP*es me off when they really overdo it ya know? I understand it when someone pays like a $90 labor charge when it should be $60, you can reason that kind of stuff with (Well I felt beter about it, or they gave me a pimp loaner car trying to catch my intrest with it). But that kind of stuff is uncalled for. :\ Don't worry about electrical stuff. It's really easy. 90% of the electronics are simply there to check parts & normally, if they don't exactly identify the problem, you can look up what common causes are & narrow it down to a few things. Much, much easier to troubleshoot. =) I know a lot of old school people that can't deal with any amount of electronics. it's really sad, because there really isn't much to understand - you don't actually *need* any electrical know-how. Besides, the mean time before failure of electronic parts is indefinate & electro-mechanical parts many times that than all-mechanical parts. All you need is a multi-meter (that can read voltage, and check resistance), and book to tell you what causes what problem & what the factory specifications are.

OK. The o2 sensor won't cause engine damage. They can't affect fuel changes enough to do much more than give you crappy gas mileage & raise emessions. It could have just been a rare defaulty sensor, or it could have been killed with some kind of engine treatment. In general, if your gas mileage doesn't suck & you can pass emessions, there's nothing wrong with o2 sensors. Change them every 100-120,000 m as preventative maint along with the cat convertor<s>. The only way to test oxygen sensors to time how long it takes them to reach operating temp at a constant 2,500rpm, or throuh normal crank & drive (Idling to let an engine warm up is horrible), and watch their output & watch how fast they respond. You can't test them by resistance, it's just grab a voltage meter & watch their output :\ You can, however, unplug the o2 sensor & connect up to one of the diagnostic ports (if you know the pins) & test the resistance across the oxygen sensor heater circuit. The rest of that just really *BLEEP*es me off. Quit going wherever you're going to get your work done... They're ripping your sclong off & beating you with it. $675 to change an oxygen sensor my !Removed!. They better have thrown in some seriously disturbed sexual favors for $675... You wiggle your arm down the firewall, unplug the wire & take it off with a deep well socket, or a wrench. You're talking something that takes a half an hour at most, and that's just giving the exhaust 20 min to cool down!!! It takes 5-10 min to do if you put a glove on & just do it. Maybe 10-15 if you splice a new one in. Generic Bosch splice in oxygen sensors for your engine run around $70usd. The same Bosch sensor with the correct pigtail on it (plug & play instead of splice in) runs about $90-110usd. The actual Denso o2 sensor runs anywhere between $150-$230usd.

Werd SK is right, the v6's will crank & run off any 3 cylinders. You can move the car down a driveway on 4 & drive it on 5. Replacing the ignitor was a huge waste of money & the ignition switch was a money grabbing play by whoever the mechanic was. (Really they both were if the mechanic has a brain.) Basically, whoever you're dealing with is either a huge moron, out to get your money, or too busy to not be an idiot. In any case, don't ever go back... You don't replace components because the ECU says something is faulty. You test them, related components & every other possible cause for the problem before you go replacing parts. Check for: stuck/clogged/dirty IAC valve & EGR valve. post MAF vacuum leaks front bank plugs & spark plug wires (because they're easy to take out) Check for the nearly impossible chance a Toyota fuel filter has clogged - You're around the amount of time to change it for the first time. hahahahahahaha Beware of knuckles, it's a total pain in the &#33;Removed&#33;! Anywho, now that we've established your mechanic (or parts counter guy)should never be delt with again...

Posted Sep 12 2005, 06:49 PM ZINFANDEL22 1) YOU ARE OVER A MONTH BEHIND IN POSTING. 2) TYPING IN ALL CAPS CONVEYS YOU AS SHOUTING. IT'S ANNOYING TO READ & IT MAKES YOU LOOK LIKE AN !Removed!. (See how annoying it is to read that?) Kids, remember to type in a semi-normal style. Say no to !Removed!... Less it's that quality !Removed!! Nice! B)

Check suspension connecting / mounting points. The most common of all (not that any of them are common) would be sway bar end links, or mounts backing out enough to allow movement. Make sure the stut assembly is on good.

It's easy to change the filter in a relative world. Try again. The carpet is glued in with some tacky glue. All dealers are suppose to road check. Most of the stuff "road checks" consist of during normal maint. can be checked by looking at the parts during service. Anything left over generally falls under the "So how has your car been doing lately?" question. Now if actual repair is being done, yes every mechanic will *try* to road test - assuming they have enough time to do so. Only real way to know is to watch/track the car leave the lot..

=) Do it, you'll love it!!! The three of us that ahve done it have gained 25-30bhp+ peak. Lots better between say 4750 & 7000. Exactly where you want the gains! It's a great idea if you're taking the heads off for some reason. Ungodly easier to dissasemble out of the engine bay. Porting 101. Smoothe the short side radious out, but DON'T get rid of the whole thing. Just do a better job blending than the factory did. (With the Aluminum heads & a free night you can actually accomplish that with just sandpaper on your finger running it back & forth with lots of pressure; exactly like if you were fingering the G-sp ... Nevermind. Discussion for another day!) Take the TB off & sharpen the top/bottom chamber split. Grind out all the runners smooth on both that & the lower intake manifold. Sharpen the port split in the head to feed both chambers. Once you do that you should have the hang of it. Go back & grind some away from the valve guides & enlarge the bowl. FYI you notice the SSR (looking form the incomming air side) rises up slightly then goes around the curve to the valve. Be sure as you're porting that you leave some slope facing side (not curivng side) of the SSR. It angles & accellerates airflow into the back (exhaust valve side) of the cylinders. If you make the wall flat, you'll loose velocity, some charge mixing & overall it won't be as good. You don't need a flowbench to do an awsome job. What you need are OD calipers to compair all your ports with. Be sure to have a set of outer diameter calipers! Read all your head porting guides... http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port1.html http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port1.html http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/04...low/index.shtml http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/ http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHeadPort.htm http://mototuneusa.com/the_8_phase_motor.htm http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm http://mototuneusa.com/homework.htm http://mototuneusa.com/the_2007_superbike.htm http://mototuneusa.com/super_sonic_nozzle.htm http://mototuneusa.com/success_stories.htm If you do small, HV ports, don't go any smaller than 85% of the valve diameter. It'll choke our engine's off 'cause we don't run over 7000rpm. One thing nobody else will tell you. Unless you've got a die grinder & are taking out huge amounts of matierial at a time, don't worry about porting. it actually takes effort to take tons of meterial out. Further, despite the fact that it is a very sensative job to do; once you get the hang of it you'll notice there really is a huge margin of error if you're only doing a basic port job. You basically have to try to *BLEEP*up to actually *BLEEP*up!