Toysrme

Nope. You should be fine damage wise, it's non-interference. You do need to put new belts on it, and it's past time for a water pump if you didn't around 180,000m. The idler pullies also need to go, so does the hydraulic tensoner. Every other timing belt change. Don't drive on a slipped timing belt it will fail again. Two of my favorite example pictures ever.

'bout $25 for the two gaskets + hour of labor if they'rehonest, normally you pay two. So that'll either be hour * 60, or hour * 90 depending on where you go. If you went to a Toyota dealer, it'd run about $200 depending on what speed they want the tech to work at. $300 at a Lexus dealer. That's just if you do valve cover gaskets. They should be doing the cam seals while they've got the valve covers off. Add about 10-20 min & $20 for parts. I'm not sure what year car you have, if you have a '93 & before model, add the distributor gasket too. Another $5 & about 10 min.

Anyone else replaced a radiator after servicing it & flush rusty sludge out of the block, or flushed a transmission that has been religiously serviced, only to find that most of the fluid is dark & littered with crap floating in it, then drop the pan to see it everywhere? When you drain the pan of the transmissions, you're only getting a tiny bit more than 20% of the old fluid out. That's not very much. :'( All I'll say about that stuff. Lexusfreak great call on the A/T pan gasket! I had to rebuild mine a few weeks ago out of the blue & forgot about it. Now I need to go check it LoL!

Exactly X. Works just like an old lawn mower engine. If the fluid is roughly even with the hole, it's full!

Bawahahahahahahahaha ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha I'm not sure what the pressure to the cooler is, line pressure in the transmission can exceed 200psi. (Cooler pressure is way under that tho, don't worry). I just used 5/16" high temp fuel/oil hose on my aux. trans cooler & turbo return lines I bought off ebay. I still ahve tons of the stuff laying around. Most common oil hose has a 250psi burst rating, 257*F temp. Real good hose get's up to 270-290*F at 275-300psi. You need to kill off the fuel hose, that's going to be a bad idea over time. Get some oil hose. Zipties works well for mounting. Hose clamps get used for mounting a lot, but that is a BAD idea! They cut into the transmission line as it flexes. That would be a mess! If you're going to add a filter, add an aux cooler after the main one!!! Just go buy an oil cooler out of a junkyard for like $5-10 and mount it. The $40 stacked plate coolers are great, but eh... If you're retaining the stock cooler, just some old cheap crap that's stock on another car will work fine! And please use good hoseclamps to clamp, that can't be said enough. ;)

Ya, but you didn't explain any of the OBD-I codes, and you left a ton of them out :D LoL! larry knows what code 52 is, he's been trying to fix it for a week. ;)

You should always flush a transmission at a reasonable interval. Draining the pan and only changing some 20 odd % of the transmission fluid every other year just doesn't cut it over time. Flushing an old transmission is also not detrimental it to. Just another old mechanics tale that one day, if we're all really lucky, might die!¡! Tho I agree, don't power flush transmissions. Eewwww!:snoooorrrtttt: <_< Who wants to risk it? My view is the transmissin has it's own pump capable of extremely high pressure without any help; it can do it's own flushing without some of the negatives of jsut shoving fluid through the transmission. Just remember, if you're not paying for around 10 quarts of transmission fluid, it's not really getting flushed!

52 - Left bank, even bank, front bank. 55 - Right bank, odd bank, rear bank.

Camshaft Position Sensor. 2vz/3vz-fe's Take the distributor's electrical connector off & put it back on & give the metal body of it a smack. That's not going to solve anything, but you're going to feel better as you replace the distributor. They're very low failure rate items, so I wouldn't be afraid to give a junkyard like $30-40usd for a used one. New one's from Toyota are pretty expencive & some Lexus dealers just get laffable. Autopart stores with rebuilt distributors normally go about $90 with core, $125 without. 92-93 v6 Camry / 92-93 ES 300. Same thing. I will say DO NOT change the spark plug wires with generic crap if you ver change them. The OEM wires are like $90-113. Other than OEM wires, Vitek & hellaciously expencive Magnacore's are the only wires that will last any time. & only use NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Everything else is going to develop weak spark over time. Distributor itself isn't complex to change. 2 * 12mm bolts & it just pulls out of the end of the intake camshaft on the back head. Have/borrow a timing light to set it. The directions on how to set the timing are all ever any forum you look at if you look so.;)

Probably still the wrong torque on them. Impact guns with torque settings don't even get in the ballpark. :P The good news is that it probably has a few hundred ft/lb on it anway! :D

Search for the bolt pattern of your wheel + wheel in question. Search for offset needed to run depth of said wheel in question. Good luck!

Link + FAQ.

Externial oil leaks find there way to the y-pipe where the burn on it. Check the rear valve cover, & rear main seal. Normally the front's don't leak b/c of the tilt in the engine, but check them too.

Bosch 12031 - for the splice in generic $30USD replacement. Bosch 12114 - for the same thing with a harness on it $120usd. The OEM Nippon Denso sensor is C5010-100848 - $110usd. The Generic Nippon Denso sensor is C5010-63157 - $40usd. Just jet to your local Hong Kong autoparts stores.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=21964 Welcome back! (Beat you to it!)

No. It normally takes 10% of any kind of change for an average person to see something is different. F@H, when run as a service, has been proven to take a 1.5-2% performance hit while doing very CPU intensive gaming / compiling. Since you normally run it at the idle process priority, anything running will get CPU priority over it. Takes about 4meg of ram, normally get's up to 10-15 meg as a "work unit" is getting nearer to completion & sent back to stanford. Normally it takes many hours, days to finish a "work unit". That itself is nothing more than some strings of info it downloads, does whatever it does, then sends a few stirngs back. Network bandwidth wise, it's about like typing this post.

Welcome back Josh!

You want pics from before, or after it got dropped in the mr2? :D

If any of the sensors are off, the fuel trim<s> will be affected. air sensors (AFM, MAF, MAP) coolant sensor o2 sensor<s> incorrect ignition timing / bad ignition All can have a big affect with fuel trim. Case in point, one of the free mod series I wrote about originally had you put a POT in on the coolant temp sensor. You can easily add 4-6% more long term fuel trim by making the car think it is colder than it is. That's LTFT too, that doesn't account the few extra % the STFT will add because of it. Always reset the ECU before troubleshooting poor mileage. You never know when something might be cooky on these things as much sound cladding we have & how quiet the stock engine's are.

A 3vz-fe is a 3vz-fe. Same thing, they just don't have EGR & the ECU runs a little leaner with a little more timing.

I like my idea, doesn't take any time or effort to use. Stealthy woot! Werd, if someone wants something they'll get it.

I can recall one Camry/Solara/Avalon/Windom/ES rolling 20's that didn't look retarded; so the odds are against you. To each, his own.

Pulling the EFI fuse resets the ECU. That includes all codes & trims. In the OBD-II's case, that includes short & long term fuel adjujstments aquired throughout the rpm ranage. STFT is a 10% adjustment on the fly with the o2 sensors. LTFT is another 5 - 10% adjustment. That's a large amount of fuel that can be added, or subtracted from stock. It happens as fuel injector springs get a little wear on them & they can't pulse fast enough & o2 sensors get wear on them.

Pull the EFI fuse a second & replace it.

The engine shold be cold to do this, (first crank of the day). Hook a multi meter (voltage meter) up to the o2 sensor. Crank the engine and rev it to 2500rpm, or immediately start driving. The voltage from the o2 sensor should be hitting .45-.5 volts, and it should be fluxtuation several times a second. If it is not, replace them both with splice in generic units.