SKperformance

I wouldn't glue them on because it might remove the paint if it gets stolen or needs to be removed. There is the special 3m double sided tape which is cheap and works amazing.wal mart should have it and all body shops have it just ask they might give it to you for free. or atleast $5

The sc's are rear wheel just like the ls same drivetrain different chasiss. Unless it is the special edition JDM only all wheel drive and steering.

All lexus emblems have atleast 2 pins on them .It is a guide like you said ,which makes sure all of them are dead straight and the same as any other car.

The only enhancers i would reommend is lucas oil engine stabilizer. First it is used for high run mileage vehicles that do not get oil changes ,they get the oil analyzed to see when it needs to be changed and what is in it. If it proved to be useless i doubt the company would be in buisness as tehy were mainly distributed by truck stops for years. Now the main stream market has caught on to it. I put some of there stuff in my tranny ,so i am going to see how it works. I have nothing to lose as it is already on its last legs but if it works i will have to say i am a beliver. so far it has worked pretty good for the first 100 km.I just put the engine stuf in my wifes car also.

The only lexus i have seen rust up hear are on 2 parts the front and rear reinforcement bars which are hidden behind the bumper so tehy don;t get washed at all.You never notice until the bumper is removed. The only other parts are by owner neglect of not waxing the car so stone chips will collect salt and rust under the surface. Btw i saw a nice newer sc 400 i think it was a red 97 ( which is the last year they sold them here) at don valley lexus. I don;t know if they still have it. There are lots of 92-93's around ,i am suprised you haven;t found any. If you can get a 95 and up it has a newer style engine ,it is a few thousean more but well worth the extra value.

come on ,i'll whip out my civic with my new hid's i gained like 12 horsepower to my nose with these things i'll take on an of you. lmao btw i sure did notice a huge difference in the alternator causing drag on the engine from the less power the hid's use. I was suprised as my Lexus didn;t seem anywhere near in a difference. But i drive with my lights on all day and night.

I am as cool as a cucumber daddy -O now tell me wwho said that and you are really dating yourself. lmao

disagree with which part zeta? I know you can add a new deck with a metra wiring harness and turbo kit face plate ?So i am lost?

I am sorry but you made my day. I thought that was so funny because it is so simple but with the damn amount of toys these cars have it is ridiculas to know them all. I think it is very admirable of you to point out the simple things most will overlook unless told. I am sure someone will look at this page and so OMG ,that is what it is for. But of course they won;t fess up. I felt the same way yesterday as i got some JDM power folding mirrors. I have been working on a schematic for over a month now to get tehm to work. Someone mentioned that they had some vibrating or anti vibration mirrors.I had no clue ,so i saw a nother post on another site saying shakey mirrors. So them all being in Europe and having the background of growing up with this option i felt sort of dumb to ask.But to my surprise it was the last 2 wires i didn;t know what to do with that meant i also have shakey mirrors. In case you were wondering it has some sort of mechanism that sounds like a witch scratching her nails on a blackboard. Let me tell you even though my mirrors also as reheated this thing vibrates tehm to remove moisture and snow,but also heats up even faster than the heated element. I was truley suprised to have a toy i didn;t even think i had.

Did you check the trunk to make sure the hard drive was still there?

I would guess it is the flaps underneath the front bumper to the engine that are vibrating. Check them for missing bolts.

I have the same problem first if was the contacts then the little black pin that rocks the switch broke ,i just got a new one for a jdm windom ( es 300 in japan) .I will have to switch the internals over as it is a right hand drive vehicle and won;t fit directly.

got to love an a $$hole who drives drunk welcome to the club i had a drunk hit mine last year new yaers, he left in cuffs car towed and liscense suspeneded

they will be a special order for the offset and rim width

I payed 2600 for mine new with crap kuhmo's replaced them with toyo t1-s. so add about 1000 more for the tires. who knows i am going to be selling mine soon. if i get my hands on a set of 19's i like.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/ES/Picture_333 in case you wanted to know what they look like on an ES

stock form baseline runs are about 145-150 at the wheels which is simialar compared to other camry's also.but varies as much as 10-15 hp depending on the condition of the engien and tranny + wheels I didn't think you were giving me attitude ,don'y worry about it this is only a web site. Ingen is another company that make junk parts as it uses the same manuafacturer for parts in taiwan. $25 isn;t much for 2 pulls ,i pay 40 canadian for 3 + 20 for a afr test as well. but i am sure there is somewhere closer to you. I met a good shop when i was down there for the rubber city clam jam a few years ago but can;t remember there name.

Basically if it goes to the bottom of the screen then goes up to rest it is returning to winter mode.you need to fix that cuircit. You didn;t test it did you?

you won't get anywhere near to the 10 grand for th parts if you parted it out maybe 3500 total for used parts and labour to remove and reinstall original parts. the car is about 20 000 also depends on the colour if you have a spectra blue mica then you might get more.

ONe thing to remember about that list is.It is based on 100 cars sold dived by # of total problems meaning any one of those car could have a defect in just one car,or a defective owner who complains about everything.

Like i said ,what you belive to be true and an actual fact are to different things entirely. If by some means you have more expericane in this than me then by all mean say it is fact if not .......well then. A dyno is a true FACT. I don;t care if you think yours has gotten better. Number one being i don;t own the car so i don;t really care what happens. You put yourself out there by asking for opinions . So now you are getting them. There is real world expericane that is totally different from your expericance. Like i said before ,i don;t think you are lieing .It is just a matter of what you belive or want to . Dyno's are for people looking for real results,not imaginary. A person who does go to a dyno is there for one reason "does this part suck or not".Am i getting any gains or wasting my time and money. If you put enough rice together there may be enough add ons to make a few more ponies.But there is no real world engineering from injen .They make junk,plain and simple. I used to work for Ractive years ago,They are the king of taiwan rice. Who do you think injen stole there product lines from as well as obx and repackaged and sold them.Now ractive has a tigher hold on there manufacturers in taiwan to sole produce only,which is still very hard. I work with local race teams and distibuters. I also don't deal with rice.I never sold a blue headlight bulb, the only ones i used to sell where silverstars. I belive in knowledge from R&D to be key not a pretend to be part. I sell and install with JIC,tein espieler,skunk2 ,greddy,volk ,c west ,mugen ,arc , omp, project U, excedy and other high end names as well as complete custom work. Including building and custom making the first ever Cold air intake system for the 1mz-fe back in 97. I didn;t jsut throw some pipe together and sold it.This was a matter of 5 different protypes before i settled on one design of angles and lenghts. Short arms are a waste, but go ahead and enjoy the noise you got. But next time you want to discount advice given make sure you know what you are talking about.

I don;t think it uses vacume .Atleast on mine it is controlled by a electric solenoid which opens and closes to adjust the pressure. To clean just remove the valve with a screw behind it and wipe down and clean its cavity with brake cleans reinstall with a new gasket if needed and your done.

You may have gotten dirty stuck in the solenoid causing it to not move properly to adjust the amount of assist.

I am not sure what you mean.Is it parking anywhere on the screen? Or jsut above the hood like it is supposed to ? Are you getting any readings on the the summer /winter park position plug? It might be just that it is broken inside and not making contact back to the wiper. Have you reversed the plug upside down or just left it off the motor?

Does it spund almost like a supercharger whine? If so then it is you power steering pump. It is usually a leak causing air which is the noise.